TJ: What Tie Rod and Drag link?

[Mike]

Okay, I've replaced my drag link and tie rod once already with a mildly improved version. Since I have bent both again, it's time to seriously upgrade.
After a small amount of research, it seems that the best option for a Heavy Duty TJ set up is the Currie Drag Link and Tie Rod.

I looked at the M.O.R.E. option, but they only seem to have a set up for CJs.
Does anyone have another option for a Heavy Duty Steering set up?

[aw12345]

Mike, currie and a flip kit will do you well.
The drag link takes a hell of a beating so does the tierod and if it bends it does not collapse you just straighten it in a press. A flip kit works well for getting it a little further out of harms way. Haven;t bend or even really hit it since I did the flip kit.
Just to bad currie is so damned expensive

[RAT]

Mike, currie and a flip kit will do you well.
The drag link takes a hell of a beating so does the tierod and if it bends it does not collapse you just straighten it in a press. A flip kit works well for getting it a little further out of harms way. Haven;t bend or even really hit it since I did the flip kit.
Just to bad currie is so damned expensive

I would go Currie Mike. Mine has help up well, but you saw that even Currie isn't indestructable. I bent the hell out of the drag link at JV. But it still drives straight and true. Spend the $$ and get Currie.

[Black & Tan TJ]

Get the Currie. I've bent the tie rod then just pressed it back, very beefy and totally a bolt on replacement.

Tom

[Mike]

Mike, currie and a flip kit will do you well.
The drag link takes a hell of a beating so does the tierod and if it bends it does not collapse you just straighten it in a press. A flip kit works well for getting it a little further out of harms way. Haven;t bend or even really hit it since I did the flip kit.
Just to bad currie is so damned expensive

Does Currie make the flip kit too? What does it cost to make this change?

[aw12345]

No they do not make the flip kit, PM Steve or Curtis they bought those kits, Steve gave me one

[dirtman13]

This from a man that makes his own equipment for body protection.:dunno:
Make a set yourself and save some$$$$

[RAT]

You can always try out the ORO crossover system I have in storage. Take my ORO, PLEASE!

[curtis]

Goferit offroad for filp kit.

[Mike]

Goferit offroad for filp kit.

Thanks. Now I have lot's of questions.

I looked them up and $20 per side doesn't seem too bad. This needs to be done on both the driver and passenger sides right?

Does the Drag Link angle change significantly? Do I have to do anything special with Drag Link or Tie Rod once I move it up?

It seems like this would eliminate the need for the dropped Pitman. Can I use a stock Pitman after this?

[Mike]

This from a man that makes his own equipment for body protection.:dunno:
Make a set yourself and save some$$$$

Ha! Sheet metal is easy. I'm not up to speed on Chromoly and threads yet!

[Double AA]

Ha! Sheet metal is easy. I'm not up to speed on Chromoly and threads yet!

DOM and welded in bungs. If you cut and prep it, I think you know someone that pretty handy with a hot glue gun.

[curtis]

If your lift is under 5" you don't need a droped pitman arm. Drag link angle no conflicting change. You flip the drive side only on a currie setup. You have to modify the driver side saybar axle mount.

[Mike]

If your lift is under 5" you don't need a droped pitman arm. Drag link angle no conflicting change. You flip the drive side only on a currie setup. You have to modify the driver side saybar axle mount.

Driver's side only, that makes more sense that nothing needs to be changed. I think that I'm okay with mod'ing the sway bar links.

DOM and welded in bungs. If you cut and prep it, I think you know someone that pretty handy with a hot glue gun.

So the Drag link can be straight? The stock one has a bend in it on a TJ. If the bars are straight, I might be able to fab my own. I don't have a tube bender.

[curtis]

The currie link is straight. I cut my saybar mount off, installded the flip, and checked the clearance,an welded it back on. may need a little grinding to be right on. also use a 3/4 contersink not a drill.