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TJ Crossover Steering Clearance Issues Fix: Offset TREs

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  • TJ Crossover Steering Clearance Issues Fix: Offset TREs

    I don't know if this is news to anyone else who has tackled crossover steering, but it's great news for me: (know-it-all flamers, please control yourselves!) you can get offset tie rod ends that position your center link further forward, away from the axle. I had resigned myself to building some brackets for this purpose, but the offset TREs are a much more elegant solution--and a lot easier to setup! My reaction upon discovering this last night: Oh, thank God!!

    There is also a TRE that drops (if under-knuckle) or raises (if over-knuckle) the TRE. There are Chevy "1-ton," as well as stock Jeep taper TREs available. The design seems to be based on the Dodge ES2010, with 7/8-18, RH & LH threads; this makes them an easy swap for conventional (so-called) "1-ton" TREs.

    Anyway, here are the links:

    http://www.pscmotorsports.com/treso2...-rh-p-622.html

    http://jeepspeedshop.com/store/index...roducts_id=676

    http://www.teraflex.biz/products/hea...rge-taper.html
    holes = cowbell

  • #2
    no flamers here


    but what does the thread fit?
    Ford Raptor 6.2l

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    • #3
      The larger aftermarlet tierods and draglinks or the ones made out of dom hence the 7/8 fine thread

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      • #4
        Correction: No Offset Large Tapers

        Offset TREs are only available in stock tapers.

        I was in the process of ordering a pair of TREs, but never had the opportunity to specify offset. According to the girl that responded to my email, they don't have the offset TREs available in large taper--only stock Jeep taper. The threads, however, are still the stronger 7/8-18. This was very disappointing news for me, since I already reamed my knuckles for the larger TREs. In response to my message, she posted the actual part numbers on teraflex.biz.

        Here they are:

        LH (http://www.teraflex.biz/products/hea...ock-taper.html)


        RH (http://www.teraflex.biz/products/hea...ock-taper.html)
        holes = cowbell

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        • #5
          Originally posted by aw12345 View Post
          The larger aftermarlet tierods and draglinks or the ones made out of dom hence the 7/8 fine thread
          Right. I fabbed my tie rod/ centerlink and draglink out of 1-1/2" .25 wall cold rolled DOM with hex tube inserts. Inserts are available to make many tube sizes fit with many thread sizes. I would post some pics, but I'm getting ready for a two week overseas vacation, and I'm stealing time even now.
          holes = cowbell

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          • #6
            Originally posted by inVERt'D View Post
            Right. I fabbed my tie rod/ centerlink and draglink out of 1-1/2" .25 wall cold rolled DOM with hex tube inserts. Inserts are available to make many tube sizes fit with many thread sizes. I would post some pics, but I'm getting ready for a two week overseas vacation, and I'm stealing time even now.
            Hows your clearence from the diff is it above the knuckle?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jeeperator View Post
              Hows your clearence from the diff is it above the knuckle?
              No, I went under the knuckle for the time being. My Jeep is my driver, so having to relocate the sway bar links link brackets, etc., was more of a hassle than I wanted to tackle all at once. Besides, my steering geometry seems pretty good--I drove from Anza to Temecula and back yesterday, on twisty mountain highways, with my swaybar disconnected and it drove great. I did 80mph on the 15 and it felt solid too. In fact, even with my booty home alignment job, it drives better than ever. As for the rocks, yeah, I'd rather get it out of the way, but in the meantime those rocks better duck.

              Diff clearance isn't really a big problem. I'm at almost full lock to the left when the center link gets up against the diff. The problem is the lower track bar mount. Before I get near full lock the center link hits the bolt head. When I first moved my front axle about an inch forward (the safe limit of my adjustable short arms), the center link/ drag link knuckle. The fix was easy: I put a chain around that curved part of the drag link, put the other end around an anchor point, backed up a bit, and bada-bing-bada-boom--no more clearance problem. You can't even tell that it's more curved than stock, unless you were to compare. That ain't gonna work on this setup.

              One solution that might work is putting some nice little bends on the ends of the center link to give it clearance, but that might also put a twisting action into it.
              Last edited by inVERt'D; 10-01-08, 08:39 PM. Reason: Forgot an earthshaking detail.
              holes = cowbell

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              • #8
                you guys think its possible too run over the knuckle without having too cut and weld the sway bar mounts and steering dampner mount. It kinda looks like it could be done with the offset tre's but it doesnt look like there is much room from the rim and tire. Anyone have a custom set up they would like too share Please no bolt on kits I believe I have seen them all. I need some different ideas.

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