weber problems

[aheffing]

I have a 77 jeep cj7 with a 258 I6. A few years ago, after realizing that the stock, single barrel carb was absolutely no good, i started to research new carbs. The general consensus of folks seemed to be that the 32/36 was the one for the job. I wish they would have told me how big of a pain it would be!

When i first replaced the original carb the weber made my jeep run so much better (still not perfect) i didnt even think about vaccuum leaks, fuel pressure, jetting, or anything else that could be detrimental to the way my jeep would run in the future. Since then it has only gotten worse, i had a bad exaust leak due to a cracked exhaust manifold and I figured that is why my jeep wasnt running as well as it should, so i put on some headers. The jeep sounded great, but still ran bad. I also had some ignition problems that I figured could be causing a problem with the way it ran. So i replaced the stock distributor with a HEI 62,000 volt and gapped the plugs according to the distributor manufacturer's specs (considerably wider than my jeep manual says to do). Still no improvement in the way my jeep ran! So i spent the $60 and got the jets and also got the fuel pressure regulator, so far, the only jet i have replaced is the primary idle jet, because when i called the weber people they said that is the only one i needed to change. I have also changed the float level to what at least 3 different sources have told me to do. Some improvement, still ran bad. So i advanced the timing, not looking for any particular setting, just seeing what ran the fastest and smoothest. It ended up being quite a bit.

In the past, i have only had problems getting it to idle at the weber baseline settings, and after i got into the gas a little bit while driving it drove great. Now after all my hard work i have the opposite problem, the weber idles OK, (even though i still have to have the idle speed screw turned in way more than the recommended 1 and 1/2 turns in). It even revvs up great when not in gear, but now when you drive it and get into the gas a little it sputters and seems to cut out or miss. Its also fouling plugs pretty consistently and seems to be running rich at some settings and the carb makes a gurgling/slurping sound at some settings.

I would take it in to a shop but nobody around Central Arkansas I have found says they can work on webers.

I know other people have had problems with these carbs, but can anybody help me? i just want my jeep back and running good!

sorry this is so long... heres a list of the stuff i did in case anybody forgot

HEI distributor, Headers(no vaccuum leaks), new plugs, fuel pressure regulator, jets, advanced timing.

Please Help!

[Russ Chung]

I guess no one on MJR knows much about Weber carburetors . I don't know anything about Webers either, but you might check with these folk in Memphis, TN (if you haven't already talked to them): Inglese Induction Systems.

Meanwhile, I have some general comments:
1. The fact that your plugs are fouling is a sign that you are running too rich. On a Weber, the adjustments that you make for idle also have an effect on the mid-range. It would seem that the adjustments that you made to smooth out the idle have made the mid range too rich. I suggest you put the original idle jet back in and put the float level back down to the original float level and look for other possible reasons for the rough idle such as a vacuum leak or a bad intake valve. Have you checked your vacuum lines, CCV and manifold gaskets? Have you run a compression check? Does your carburetor have a choke? If so, is it adjusted properly and operating properly?
2. It is not likely that the high speed problems are due to the ignition system. Put the advance back to factory specs (but leave the spark plug gap at the HEI settings). IIRC, advancing the spark would tend to make the engine rougher, and retarding the spark would tend to make it run smoother (but with less power).
3. Unless you have access to an exhaust analyzer, let the color of your spark plugs be your guide; if they are black with soot, you're running too rich. Light brown is good. White or gray coating or blistering or cracking is an indication that you're running too lean.

[fun4wheelerguy]

I hope that you started with checking the engine basics first............ Check compression...... Most people assume that it is ok because it runs but realistically low compression in 1 or more cylinders can give you all of the symptoms that you have.

Brett