Anyone know of any good clutch resources?

[FromLadaToJeep]

Any good sites like Stu's? Detailing a Jeep clutch replacement? My clutch is shuttering like hell in first when it gets warm and it also then gets difficult to put into any gear. She slips a little here and there. I think a replacement is in the near future. So I'm looking to do a little research now so I can prep myself.
Thanks

[Materdaddy]

If you don't have another daily driver, you might want to leave a clutch replacement to a mechanic as a clutch job is pretty involved. It's one of the few jobs I still wouldn't tackle (or even attempt to tackle).

[FromLadaToJeep]

Fortunately, (it's actually hell..) I work with my wife and we have another car for work. So I can afford to be without jeep for a long time. Perhaps I should wait until the winter and try to baby the clutch until then if I am going to try it. I am going to take your advise however and look further into it before I try anything. It seems like there isnt much out there as far as detailed descriptions on clutch jobs so yeah.. it must be a big job and left to mechanics often.

[Materdaddy]

It's doable, I just wouldn't attempt it as my Jeep is a DD and I need it to get to work. Also, I don't have a garage, so lifting an engine or dropping a tranny isn't very easily done for me!

[FromLadaToJeep]

I hear ya.. There isnt much I would try if this were my DD. Even still, its looking like quite a job and perhaps I'll price out a mechanics job. If its not insane Ill go that route. If I can save a lot of dough.. I may try it.

[swbooking]

Its really not that hard, drop the tranny, unbolt the old clutch, install new clutch with the clutch alighnment tool. (like $5 at autistic zone) and put the tranny back in... you might have to bleed the clutch as well...

[brokenujoint]

one full weekend if you've never done it before. its summer time, no need for a garage. stay organized and it will go well.

1.block the wheels and disco the battery
2.drain tranny fluid
3.drain trans case fluid
4.remove center console
5.remove shifter
6.support the engine at the pan with a jack and a block
7.support the tranny the same way
8.remove the rear shaft
9.drop the skid plate
10.disco all the trans case wires and linkages
11.pull the case. its not that heavy
12.pull the starter off
13.pull all wires and stuff off the tranny
14.pull out the tranny. 2 people prefered
15.check flywheel, preferably get it balanced and resurfaced. but not necessary. some good sand paper will be ok for a poor man
16.install your new cluth. mine was a centerforce II
17. reinstall in reverse order.
dont forget your fluids and your beer/soda/radio and friends.

I did a clutch job on my jeep. took 2 full days 1st time round. did another tj's and that time i did it in 8 hrs by myself with air tools... dont be afraid and when in doubt, label it, sketch it, video it, picture it and enjoy the free labor!

[NAILER341]

pm me your email address... i 'l send you a pdf doc with information.

[aston]

side note: stock vs aftermarket clutch parts.

As it happens this is one case where stock parts work well, even for serious rock crawling. Upgraded clutch parts (like centerforce) tend to snatch which makes feeding the power difficult.

[NAILER341]

http://dana30.com/photogallery/0000%...eplacement.pdf

try this.
post up when you retrieve it, as it will not be up long.

[Jerry Bransford]

I did my first Jeep clutch installation a few months ago and it's a job. It took me two full days though I did take a lot of breaks. I used a link to help guide me through it though I also had the FSM. I'll come back tonight and post that link.

A few things to keep in mind... do NOT have the flywheel resurfaced by a machine shop as it has a special required dome shape that would be removed if you had it surfaced. Instead, lightly sand the surface using emory cloth or fine sandpaper to remove any glazing present.

Next I would avoid a Centerforce II clutch. They work but they're designed for a different application, high HP and high RPMs, not how a Jeep is driven. Plus they're unnecessarily expensive for no additional benefit.

The factory uses Luk brand clutches, and I got nearly 170K miles out of my factory Luk clutch before replacing it. With that kind of mileage, I didn't see any need to even look at another brand of clutch. And once I got the old clutch out, I was surprised to see it was in remarkably good condition with probably at least another 20K miles left on it. That was after having been literally smoked many times while rock crawling.

www.dialaclutch.com has Luk clutch kits for $140 or so, half the price of some other clutches. That kit includes the clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and pilot shaft. That's where I ordered mine from and I had it in two days. Avoid the Luk "Gold" kit which has a heavier-duty clutch plate. While that would sound like a good idea, and it did to me, a little research uncovered that clutch is meant for trucks and it will make noise in the Wrangler.

It's a dirty PITA job but I hadn't replaced a clutch since the 60's and I got 'er done without a problem. A tranny jack is something I'd have before starting the job, I got mine from Harbor Freight Tools for $50 or so. Oh yeah, you will also need an E-10 or so external torx socket adapter. I'll look tonight for that too to see if I can come up with the exact size.

[FromLadaToJeep]

http://dana30.com/photogallery/0000%...eplacement.pdf

try this.
post up when you retrieve it, as it will not be up long.

Got it.. thanks.. And thanks for all the other tips. Im going to look into kits from dealers and parts source and the like.. And buy a tranny jack.. I only have a floor jack and a high lift in my garage.. so I could use another one.

Its interesting about the stock vs aftermarket parts... seems most aftermarket clutches are fit for racing vehicles.. and so it does seems that stock may be the best choice. though, Im sure an aftermarket clutch would do just fine, but I may be able to find a replacement for stock for cheaper. As some have suggested.

[swbooking]

According to the article in the July 07 ORA mag called "clutch finesse" the Centerforce II clutch is one of the best for built and stock rigs and the pedal effort is minimal over stock. The stats on it looks good, next clutch i run is gonna be a Centerforce II. I have no expierince with it but ive heard its pretty good. and for sure better then stock without being super graby like a dual friction / puck clutch...

[Jerry Bransford]

According to the article in the July 07 ORA mag called "clutch finesse" the Centerforce II clutch is one of the best for built and stock rigs and the pedal effort is minimal over stock. The stats on it looks good, next clutch i run is gonna be a Centerforce II. I have no expierince with it but ive heard its pretty good. and for sure better then stock without being super graby like a dual friction / puck clutch...

170K+ miles on the OE factory Luk clutch in a rock crawler Jeep is pretty hard to beat, especially in view of the fact it had been literally smoked more than a few times so that smoke was billowing out of it... and to look to be in excellent condition after all of that. My decision to stick with the Luk was how could I feel it had done anything but a superb job. In other words, why switch from something that does a superb job in some very difficult circumstances. Check my website below, I think you can even see that clutch smoke I was talking about in the Doran photos that were taken at least 80K miles ago.

[NAILER341]

170K+ miles on the OE factory Luk clutch in a rock crawler Jeep is pretty hard to beat, especially in view of the fact it had been literally smoked more than a few times so that smoke was billowing out of it... and to look to be in excellent condition after all of that. My decision to stick with the Luk was how could I feel it had done anything but a superb job. In other words, why switch from something that does a superb job in some very difficult circumstances. Check my website below, I think you can even see that clutch smoke I was talking about in the Doran photos that were taken at least 80K miles ago.

HAHAHA.
i remember that trip up Doran, Jerry.



you sure did smoke the clutch on that one

i am also very fond of LUK clutches.




i put the OEM replacement when i changed mine at over 200,000 miles. on the next one, i think i'll try the "gold" version just to see how it does.