Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Alt squeel... WONT STOP!!!

Collapse

Forum Thread First Post

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    The tensioner only goes on one way so its not wrong. And the belt is routed the same way it always has been. This is the 3rd belt I have put on here and it still squeels. To tighten it the p/s has a bolt on the bottom of the mount that pulls/pushes the pulley. I dont know wat to do about it not touching the tensioner much... might hafta try bending the p/s bracket up a little bit if it wont mess anything else up. Actually now that I think of it, it could have been bent down when I replaced the belt the very first time because I had a hell of a time getting the p/s to move and let go of the belt I had to use a bar to move it... I will hafta check into that.

    The squeel is not nearly as bad now with the new tensioner. I can control the squeel by keeping as little things on that draw power. It sometimes squeels once I have dropped to low r's at a light or something, and if I let off the gas and let it idle for a sec or two it usually goes away and my volts come back up.
    Yellow 01 Sport
    4" Pro Comp lift | D44 | 33x12.5 Duratracs

    Comment


    • #17
      Alt

      There are two bolts on the back of the power steering pump and one on the front for the adjuster that must be loosened. The bolts on the back are in slots and if you run out of slot your belt is severally stretched or the wrong length. I believe the bolt head calls for a 13mm wrench.

      Comment


      • #18
        If you have a/c, your pump turns on and off as your heater is working to remove moisture from the air. This may explain the load on the alt, but randy4x4 has a point... check that diagram again cuz everyone's done something absent- mindedly before, lord knows I have. Try that screw driver trick, there is also a tool w/ a stethescope you can buy, but money is always an object. If the dork at the reman place left the old bearing in, separate the case and press... not beat, bludgeon and whail... the bearings out of the casing. if the bearings are burned, of which should be evident by visual inspection or a wobble in the shaft, mic the case where the bearing presses in, and the internals on the bearing, and call a bearing wholesaler like command bearing in CT. Bring the bearing in too, even the secretaries can help find the right one.

        Comment


        • #19
          Oh, and if you have a lathe with metal tools(or a band of sand paper), turn the contact surfaces a smidge where the brushes hit. A bad bearing can cause excessive wear from what I've seen. You should be able to find new brushes, but separate diode packs are not as easy for me to find. Remember the brushes need a paper clip to hold them in place for re-assembly. JC garbage may also have rebuild kits if need be.

          Comment

          Working...
          X