Anyone running the Hy steering set-up on top of the knuckles? Pros or cons?
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Dana Hy Steer
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what knuckles? stock TJ?
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I have 1975 chevy flat tops. 1980ish ford rotors, chevy small spindles.
I have the right flat top at Parts Mike shop right now.
I will buy the GM Tie rod ends instead of hiem joints.
Not done yet but it well keep the steering away from my front springs, and higher off the ground.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ngresearch.htm
http://www.partsmikeparts.com/Dana44.htm1956 Willys Wagon restomod
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Originally posted by DavisratsI have 1975 chevy flat tops. 1980ish ford rotors, chevy small spindles.
I have the right flat top at Parts Mike shop right now.
I will buy the GM Tie rod ends instead of hiem joints.
Not done yet but it well keep the steering away from my front springs, and higher off the ground.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ngresearch.htm
http://www.partsmikeparts.com/Dana44.htm97 TJ Buffed Out
LETS ROCK!
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Originally posted by DavisratsI have a dana 44 from a full size cherokee (cut down) in the front of my CJ.
right now if I stuff the drivers wheel and/or droop the passengers the tie rod hits the spring.
friggen mess97 TJ Buffed Out
LETS ROCK!
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Dana 44 Hy Steer
When I did my springover many years ago along with putting on a 44 on the front I used a similar BKT (pictured) to get my Drag link up high to get it away from the spring as well as to straighten out the rod to get rid of bump steer. I only used one bracket to the passanger side. There was no kit back then.
http://www.partsmikeparts.com/44CorrectedArm.htm
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Originally posted by TDS SDWhen I did my springover many years ago along with putting on a 44 on the front I used a similar BKT (pictured) to get my Drag link up high to get it away from the spring as well as to straighten out the rod to get rid of bump steer. I only used one bracket to the passanger side. There was no kit back then.
http://www.partsmikeparts.com/44CorrectedArm.htm
Why did you not move up the rest of the linkage???97 TJ Buffed Out
LETS ROCK!
WEB site
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I have a dana 60 with kingpin knuckles and a Poison Spyder Customs passenger side hi steer arm (arm for draglink only). They also make arms for kingpin knuckles for complete hi steer. The PSC arms milled with tapers for Chevy drag link ends ES2026R and ES2027L.
Also check out http://www.offroaddesign.com/Dana60crossover.htm they have a high steer kit that looks good and i believe they use tie rod ends.
Either kit would probably work just fine. I used PSC because they have multiple holes in their arms so you can refine steering ratios, clearances, etc, etc, yak, yak, yak. The drag link ends work just fine and they handle a lot of misalignment but my setup uses only a fraction or what the ends are capable of. I tend to think the rod end setup would be a little nicer as the ends are a lot shorter and thus more of the links' buckling stresses are in the link tubing that is much more resistant to bending/buckling.
PSC (and probably ORD) has 1.5" OD .250" wall DOM tubing with all necessary threaded inserts and jam nuts to build the links yourself. The rod end and drag link ends i used are all 7/8" thread.
Let me know if you'd like some additional info and maybe i can help.1972 Jeep Commando
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Originally posted by GoinCommandoI have a dana 60 with kingpin knuckles and a Poison Spyder Customs passenger side hi steer arm (arm for draglink only). They also make arms for kingpin knuckles for complete hi steer. The PSC arms milled with tapers for Chevy drag link ends ES2026R and ES2027L.
Also check out http://www.offroaddesign.com/Dana60crossover.htm they have a high steer kit that looks good and i believe they use tie rod ends.
Either kit would probably work just fine. I used PSC because they have multiple holes in their arms so you can refine steering ratios, clearances, etc, etc, yak, yak, yak. The drag link ends work just fine and they handle a lot of misalignment but my setup uses only a fraction or what the ends are capable of. I tend to think the rod end setup would be a little nicer as the ends are a lot shorter and thus more of the links' buckling stresses are in the link tubing that is much more resistant to bending/buckling.
PSC (and probably ORD) has 1.5" OD .250" wall DOM tubing with all necessary threaded inserts and jam nuts to build the links yourself. The rod end and drag link ends i used are all 7/8" thread.
Let me know if you'd like some additional info and maybe i can help.
Didnt realize this would be so much of a challenge97 TJ Buffed Out
LETS ROCK!
WEB site
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High steer
Originally posted by Britainahh I was reviewing the Devils run on Stormtroopers Web site I do see only your drag link above I plan on moving everything up top. Seen to many broken busted tie rods this summer.
Why did you not move up the rest of the linkage???
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Originally posted by BritainThanks for the info. Yeah I'm starting to get interference with the drag and tie rod link. May need to build custom arm to where the drag rides higher and stays out of the way of the tie rod. To boot this needs to be tied into ram steering.
Didnt realize this would be so much of a challenge
Good luck.Last edited by GoinCommando; 06-24-06, 08:31 PM.1972 Jeep Commando
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Originally posted by GoinCommandoAgain, it might be worth checking out PSC. I believe the full hi steer arms mount the tie rod BEHIND the axle and keep the drag link in front of the axle. Sounds like it may fix your tie rod/drag link interference problem (if i am understanding your problem correctly). As a matter of fact they have a pic of a jeep with D60 front with the arms and tie rod behind the axle with ram assist.
Good luck.97 TJ Buffed Out
LETS ROCK!
WEB site
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Originally posted by TDS SDSame problem as you. Centering link was sitting on top of springs. Remember my springs are on top of the axel.97 TJ Buffed Out
LETS ROCK!
WEB site
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