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  • FAQ PAGE / Part #s & Specs

    this is where you will keep some of the pertinant information about your short wheel base jeeps. if you have some technical information about a short wheel base jeep you would like to writ down as factual information for others to see, and referance to...
    please do so here.
    part numbers
    u joint sizes
    torque specifications...

    95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!

  • #2
    [COLOR=DarkGreen]Jeep YJ Wrangler Model Specs [/COLOR]
    The Jeep YJ: 1987-1995

    [COLOR=DarkRed]Engine Options:[/COLOR]
    4-cyl 2.5L (105 HP)
    6-cyl 4.2L (115 HP)

    4-cyl 2.5L (123 HP / 139 ft-lb)
    6-cyl 4.0L (180 HP / 220 ft-lb)

    4-cyl: AX-5 (5 spd)
    4-cyl: TF-904 (auto)
    6-cyl: AX-15 (5 spd)
    6-cyl: TF-999 (auto)

    [COLOR=DarkRed] Transmission Gear Ratios[/COLOR]
    1st-3.93 2nd-2.33 3rd-1.45
    4th-1.00 5th-0.85 R-4.74
    1st-3.83 2nd-2.33 3rd-1.44
    4th-1.00 5th-0.79 R-4.22
    1st-2.74 2nd-1.55 3rd-1.00 R-2.20
    1st-2.45 2nd-NA 3rd1.00 R-NA

    [COLOR=DarkRed]Transfer Cases & Gearing:[/COLOR]
    '87: NP207, (2.61:1 Lo Range)
    Post-1987: NP231, (2.72:1 Lo Range)

    Front: Reverse Cut Dana 30
    Rear: Dana 35C
    Last edited by sarah; 07-05-04, 06:05 PM.

    95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!


    • #3
      You may also want to look at the Axle ID & Specs Guide

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1997+ Wrangler TJ[/COLOR]
      FRONT Dana 30(27)
      REAR Dana 35(27), Dana 44(30), L/S Opt.

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1987-96 Wrangler YJ[/COLOR]
      FRONT Dana 30(27)
      REAR Dana 35(27)

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1993+ Grand Cherokee ZJ[/COLOR]
      FRONT Dana 30(27), Command-Trac - part time 4WD; Dana 35(27) Select-Trac - full time 4WD
      REAR Dana 35(27), Dana 44(30), V-8 Models

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1984-2000 Cherokee XJ[/COLOR]
      FRONT Dana 30(27), Command-Trac, Dana 35(27), Select-Trac
      REAR Dana 35(27), Dana 44(30), towing option

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1976-86 CJ-7[/color]
      FRONT Dana 30(27)
      REAR AMC 20

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1981-85 CJ-8 Scrambler[/color]
      FRONT Dana 30(27)
      REAR AMC 20

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1972-83 CJ-5[/color]
      FRONT Dana 30(27)
      REAR Dana 44(30) 1972-75; AMC 20 1976-83

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1966-71 CJ-5[/color]
      FRONT Dana 27(10)
      REAR Dana 44(19)

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1955-65 CJ-5[/color]
      FRONT Dana 25(10)
      REAR Dana 44(10)

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1972-76 CJ-6[/color]
      FRONT Dana 30(27)
      REAR Dana 44(30)

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1986-92 Comanche MJ[/color]
      FRONT Dana 30(27)
      REAR Dana 35(27); Dana 44(30) metric ton

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1971-91 Grand Wagoneer[/color]
      FRONT Dana 44(30)
      REAR Dana 44(30)

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1971-75 & 1987-91[/color]
      AMC 20 1976-86

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1963-70 Wagoneer SJ[/color]
      FRONT Dana 27
      REAR Dana 44

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1967-73 Jeepster Commando[/color]
      FRONT Dana 30(27), 1972-73; Dana 27(10) 1967-71
      REAR Dana 44(30), Dana 30(27) 1967-69 4 cyl.

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1973-88 J10 Pick-Up[/color]
      [b]FRONT Dana 44(30)
      REAR Dana 44(30); AMC 20 1979-86

      [COLOR=DarkRed]1973-88 J20 Pick-Up[/color]
      FRONT Dana 44(30)
      REAR Dana 44(30); AMC 20 1986-88

      [COLOR=DarkGreen]Hard to Find Part Numbers[/COLOR] this is a fantastic link for finding your part numbers.

      Part For Year Part No.
      DISTRIBUTOR JEEP 2.5L NO F.I. 89-90 33004654
      DISTRIBUTOR JEEP 2.5L WITH F.I. 89-90 33004461
      DISTRIBUTOR JEEP 2.5L 91-93 53006151
      DISTRIBUTOR JEEP 2.5L 94-97 56027027
      DISTRIBUTOR JEEP 4.0L 89-90 53007190
      DISTRIBUTOR JEEP 4.0L 91-93 53006150
      DISTRIBUTOR JEEP 4.0L 94-97 56027028
      DISTRIBUTOR JEEP 5.9L 91 53006450
      DIST. CAP JEEP 2.5L 89-90 J3234451
      DIST. CAP JEEP 2.5L 91-97 53006152
      DIST. CAP JEEP 4.0L 89-93 33004024
      DIST. CAP JEEP 4.0L 94-97 56026876
      DIST. CAP JEEP 5.9L 91 J3230757
      DIST. ROTOR JEEP 2.5L 89-90 33004461
      DIST. ROTOR JEEP 2.5L 91-93 33003389
      DIST. ROTOR JEEP 4.0L 89-93 33003389
      DIST. ROTOR JEEP 2.5L, 4.0L 94-96 56027019
      DIST. ROTOR JEEP 5.9L 91 J3230765
      STATOR JEEP 2.5L 89-90 83500409
      STATOR JEEP 2.5L 91-95 53009077
      STATOR JEEP 4.0L 89-90 33004590
      STATOR JEEP 4.0L 91-97 53009077
      SENSOR ASSY JEEP 2.5L 95-97 83500409
      SENSOR ASSY JEEP 4.2L 89-90 J8128445
      SENSOR ASSY JEEP 5.9L 91 J8128900
      ENG MODULE JEEP 2.5L 91 56027536
      ENG MODULE JEEP 2.5L 92 56027402
      ENG MODULE JEEP 2.5L 93 56028442
      ENG MODULE JEEP 2.5L 94 56028820
      ENG MODULE JEEP 2.5L 95 56028829
      ENG MODULE JEEP 2.5L MANUAL TRANS. 96 56028843
      ENG MODULE JEEP 2.5L MANUAL TRANS. 97 56041181
      ENG MODULE JEEP 2.5L AUTO TRANS. 96 56028848
      ENG MODULE JEEP 2.5L AUTO TRANS. NO EXP 97 56041359
      ENG MODULE JEEP 4.0L 91 56027532
      ENG MODULE JEEP 4.0L 92 56027805
      ENG MODULE JEEP 4.0L 93 56027446
      ENG MODULE JEEP 4.0L 94 56027888
      ENG MODULE JEEP 4.0L 95 56028837
      ENG MODULE JEEP 4.0L MANUAL TRANS. 96 56028852
      ENG MODULE JEEP 4.0L AUTO TRANS. 96 56041155
      ENG MODULE JEEP 4.0L AUTO TRANS. NO EXP 97 56041193
      M.A.P. SENSOR
      MAP SENSOR JEEP 89-96 33000153
      MAP SENSOR JEEP TJ UP TO 7/96 97 56028303
      MAP SENSOR JEEP TJ FROM 7/96 97 56029405
      OXYGEN SENSOR JEEP 2.5L 89-96 53007638
      OXYGEN SENSOR JEEP 2.5L FRONT 97 56027917
      OXYGEN SENSOR JEEP 2.5L REAR 97 56041108
      OXYGEN SENSOR JEEP 4.0L 89-96 56028301
      OXYGEN SENSOR JEEP 4.0L 97 56027916
      COOLANT SENSOR JEEP 89-97 33004281
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 2.5L 89-90 T0739789
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 2.5L 91-92 4638128
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 2.5L 93 4713427
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 2.5L 94-96 56026882
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L 89-90 33004761
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L NOT YJ 91-92 4638128
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L NOT YJ 93 4713427
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L NOT YJ 94-95 56027280
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L NOT YJ - M/ TRANS. 96 56026921
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L NOT YJ - A/ TRANS. 96 56026882
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L WITH YJ - M/ TRANS. 91-92 4638128
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L WITH YJ - M/ TRANS. 93 4713427
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L WITH YJ - M/ TRANS. 94-95 56026882
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L WITH YJ - A/ TRANS. 91-92 53009998
      E. SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L WITH YJ - A/ TRANS. 93 56026884
      E SPD SENSOR JEEP 4.0L WITH YJ - A/ TRANS. 94-95 56027280
      INTAKE AIR SENSOR JEEP 89-96 33004280
      INTAKE AIR SENSOR JEEP UP TO 7/96 97 33004280
      INTAKE AIR SENSOR JEEP FROM 7/96 97 56027872
      KNOCK SENSOR JEEP 89-96 33002933
      IGNITION COIL JEEP 2.5L 89-90 33004522
      IGNITION COIL JEEP 2.5L, 4.0L 91-93 5252577
      IGNITION COIL JEEP 4.0L 89-90 33002299
      IGNITION COIL JEEP 2.5L, 4.0L 94-97 4797293
      IGNITION COIL JEEP 5.9L 91 33004522
      IGNITION CABLE SET JEEP 2.5L 89-90 83300155
      IGNITION CABLE SET JEEP 2.5L 91-97 83507180
      IGNITION CABLE SET JEEP 4.0L 89-90 83300156
      IGNITION CABLE SET JEEP 4.0L 91-97 83507178
      IGNITION CABLE SET JEEP 4.2L 89-90 83300088
      IGNITION CABLE SET JEEP 5.9L 91 83300090
      VAPOR CANISTER JEEP 2.5L 89-90 33002870
      VAPOR CANISTER JEEP 2.5L, 4.0L 91-96 53009641
      VAPOR CANISTER JEEP 4.0L 89-90 33002870
      VAPOR CANISTER JEEP 4.2L 89-90 J3239479
      VAPOR CANISTER JEEP 2.5L, 4.0L 97 53030617
      FUEL TANK VENT VALVE JEEP 91-96 J5360058
      Last edited by sarah; 07-05-04, 06:42 PM.

      95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!


      • #4
        The AX-15 is a medium duty five speed transmission with an aluminum case. It is manufactured by Aisin in Japan and, although they are not compatible, the same model transmission is used in some Toyota trucks. In 1994 the clutch slave cylinder was moved to the outside of the bellhousing, so these AX-15s have a different input bearing retainer to accommodate the different throwout bearing. The input shaft is also slightly different, so a different pilot bushing is used. All AX-15s have a 1 1/8" 10 spline input shaft and a 23 spine output shaft.

        The AX-15 was first used in Cherokees (XJ) and Comanches (MJ) with the 4.0L engine. In mid 1989, the AX-15 was used in Wranglers (YJ) with the 4.2L engine and it continued to be used with the 4.0L engine. The first year of the Grand Cherokee (ZJ), the AX-15 was rare option only with the 4.0L engine. The AX-15 is still used in TJs and XJs with the 4.0L engine.

        Transmission 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Rev
        AX-15 3.83 2.33 1.44 1.00 0.79 4.22

        95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!


        • #5
          FAQ Update

          In 1970, Jeep started using a flanged 30 spline Dana 44 in the rear. It was still offset to the passenger side.

          Very rare, since it was only for two years.

          Lucky me, I have one.


          • #6
            In new TJ's (2001+) the 4-cyl is now the 2.4 liter from the PT Cruiser 150hp, and the 6-cyl now uses an NV-3550 instead of the ax-15.
            It's not the size of your tire, it's how you place it!

            '98 wrangler 4" superlift rockrunner kit, adjustable trackbar, 33's, rear EZlocker,
            and Kargomaster rack.


            • #7
              I have a 97-99 parts disc if anyone needs part #'s.
              1994 Toyota, dual cases, 5.29 axles with ARB's


              • #8
                Auto Trans Service for TJ's (3 speeds)

                I've listed this as a TJ trans service as that's what I have experience with. The other models are probably similar if not identical as this tranny has been around for about 30 years. However to be specific I have just referenced the late model version in the Wrangler TJ.

                I've done a bunch of trannies of various models and it's always a mess, but well worth it in terms of extending the life of your trans and keeping it performing it's best. If you have over 30K miles on your rig or your trans hasn't been serviced in that time then it needs to be done - THE SOONER THE BETTER!!

                I also highly recommend a switch to synthetic ATF. Experienced technicians will admit this but most shops won't tell you so because if they did it would cut their business in half or more. I buy AMSOIL synthetic lubricants at dealer discount pricing and I can set you up to do the same - just drop me a line if you're interested. I think Mobil 1 now has a synthetic ATF, and there are others. Yes, they are a LOT more expensive than conventional ATF, but it's worth it in terms of protection and performance, especially for offroad use and high-stress applications like towing.

                The 30 and 32RH transmissions hold about 13 quarts of fluid if you replace what's stuck in the torque converter after you drain the pan. I'll get to that part in a minute.

                And you'll need a trans service kit that includes a new filter, orings, and pan gasket. I have the HASTINGS line of filters for all applications. The jeep one runs about $15.

                I have also had good experience changing out the pan for a deeper version. It adds 2-3 more quarts capacity and helps with 'wash-out' or losing prime on steep inclines - another big plus for offroad use. A jeep dealer can order you one from the Mopar performance catalog for a 999 AT. It comes with a new filter, a billet fluid pick-up extension block, and pan gasket. The downside is they don't work with most belly-up skids. The only one I've found that works with a deep pan is the 33 ENGINEERING setup but I have not tried one out yet. BTW, the deep pan has a drain plug for future fluid changes made easy. Oh, and you'll have to support your trans with a jack and completely remove the cross-member support skid to fit a deep pan on. There's only about an inch of clearance to the skid with a deep pan.

                Start by laying newspaper down under your trans pan. Yes, you're going to spill some ATF, it's almost unavoidable. And you need a BIG drain pan, the 2' diameter one works best, not one of those little motor-oil drain pans, they're too small and they don't hold enough liquid.

                Loosen the bolts all the way around but leave one in each corner. The idea is to loosen the rear-most side of it first so when you pry it loose the fluid flows out there first. That way it's a lot easier to catch it all in your drain pan.

                Once you have most of the fluid drained off you can then remove the rest of the bolts and drop the whole pan down, dumping the remaining fluid in your drain pan. Watch out, this can be really messy if you miss!

                You'll need a small torx tool to loosen the screws that hold the filter on. Remove them and the filter comes off.

                This is a good time to adjust the bands. One of them is exposed after removing the filter. Back off the set-nut and tighten the adjust screw to 7 inch pounds of torque. Then back it off 2 1/2 turns and tighten the set nut back up. The other band adjust is on the outside of the trans on the drivers side up by the shift rod. Same adjust specs here. BTW, these are close settings and have worked fine for me. If you want the EXACT spec, you'll have to look them up in a shop manual, but there is some lattitude of adjustment here. I'll review the kickdown linkage adjustment later on.

                Clean your pan out, remove the magnet and clean it off, and remove any adhesive that some bozo may have used to seal the pan. No, you don't need adhesive. A pan gasket works just fine. Some swear by the neoprene re-usable gasket because they seal better, but I haven't had any trouble with any of them.

                Re-install your filter and put your pan back up and tighten all the bolts down to about 20 ft pounds. Now you can climb out from under your jeep! Hopefully you haven't spilled fluid EVERYWHERE!

                If you're changing to synthetic you're going to want to change all the fluid out of the torque converter too. Here's how you do that:
                Locate the trans fluid cooling line as it enters the drivers side of the radiator. Pull the hose off the coupling and point it at your oversize drain pan. Add 4-5 quarts of new fluid to the pan thru the dipstick filler and start the engine. This style tranny will only pump fluid when in gear or in neutral. This is also handy to know when you're trying to cool off a hot, overworked trans in the field by dropping it into neutral and running the motor at 1500rpms. Note that it won't pump fluid in PARK!! Make sure your emergency brake is set and put the tranny in neutral. It helps to have an assistant here to do the shifting. Let the fluid run until you have about 3 or 4 quarts pumped out, then shift to park and add another 4 quarts or so to the pan. If you run it out of fluid it's not the end of the world but don't do it intentionally. If it does run dry, just put it in park and add fluid to the pan.

                If your fluid was really dirty or burnt, you'll be able to see when the new fluid starts coming out. If not, just pump 'till you have 11-12 quarts out and then replace your cooling line and top up your tranny to the full mark. Take a short test drive to warm it up and recheck your fluid level.

                My last two rigs have benefited greatly from adusting the throttle hold-down cable, also known as a shift down linkage. You'll find it connected to the throttle linkage on the intake manifild. It's the dealy with a cable that goes all the way back to the trans. My last jeep was so far out of adjustment that I thought it needed a new trans. It shifted too early and was always bogged down. You had to mash the throttle to get it to shift down. It drove like poopoo and the tranny felt like it was slipping all the time.

                There's a clip on the top of the connector at the mounting bracket. It's really an adjust clip that fits into splines on the cable housing. You pull the clip and while holding almost all the slack out of the cable, re-insert it locking the cable in place and setting the adjustment. You can use some trial and error, but just a little slack in the cable is just right. Too tight and your tranny will shift down too easy and over rev; too loose and it will shift too early and not shift down properly. Once adjusted properly the performance is restored to as-new. It's very refreshing!

                In summary, and most importantly, SERVICE YOUR AT before you ruin it from neglect. Dyno ATF should be changed about every 15K miles. Synthetic can go 30K or so. If your trans has overheated a fluid change is a must. It does break down with heat and once that happens trans failure is just around the corner.

                Hope this helps. Feel free to post any inquiries or comments.


                • #9
                  cjdirtbiker, great info on the AT. I'm a fanatic about having my trans fliud changed after every hard weekend of wheelin especially if I feel that I've created excessive heat. I live in the Fullerton/Placentia border and would like to pic your brain one of these days on the trans stuff.



                  • #10
                    Any time. I've done a bunch of 'em. Just changed ATF and filter on a Allison 1000, I have two of those now.

                    With synthetic ATF you really won't over heat the fluid unless you're pulling or your engine overheats. If you change every 25-50K miles that's good. With $6/qt ATF you really don't want to change too often - big $$$!!



                    • #11
                      Wiper Switch

                      "On the Column" Wiper Switch for 1990 YJ with Tilt Steering and with Intermittent Wipers is part # 56007299 from Crown Automotive, sold on many websites.

                      I had a bear of a time hunting this down, figured others could use the info instead of wasting two days like I did.
                      [COLOR="darkred"]"Death Smiles at Everyone... Marines Smile Back."
                      Adopt-a-Trail Member.[/COLOR]


                      • #12
                        you can get any part number you need 81-2006 in PDF here:



                        • #13
                          I finally found the good seal lookup feature at Applied. It's a pain to navigate their site, so here it is
                          If you are doing TJ/XJ shafts in a YJ, the seal for the passenger side is either Timken 471765, Timken 470162, Chicago Rawhide 11800 or Chicago Rawhide 11801. The Timkens are 1.187" shaft diameter and the CR's are 1.188" They are all 2" bore diameter, so they can go right into the tube without machining or grinding.
                          Last edited by 6spdYJ; 02-04-13, 10:54 PM.
                          God forgives, rocks don't
                          -sons of thunder


                          • #14
                            Wow, nothing like dredging up an old thread. I even got a notice on thread post, looks like about 6 years ago. Whoohoo!!


                            • #15
                              Tried looking up the TJ transfer case output seal. A/Z lists the YJ slip yoke seal for everything. The right number is 4813V.
                              God forgives, rocks don't
                              -sons of thunder