bubbling coolant in overflow

[Lumpy Grits]

You'll be fine-
Don't let that 'plain' water sit more than a couple of days as rust will start.
LG

[daniel_buck]

Cool, I'll do that then.

Is there any risk of overheating in cool weather if I just fill it up with water? I may need to drive it sunday, and I imagine most shops aren't open sunday, I'd have to make an apointment for monday I guess.

Not sure how much coolant is left in there, I'll save what's in there and put it back in, and just fill the rest up with water.

[Lumpy Grits]

Yup.
LG

[daniel_buck]

Better to just button it all up, fill it with water and drive it to the closest place that can do a good flush?

[Lumpy Grits]

That won't remove the hard deposits.
Need a pro for that.
LG

[daniel_buck]

So, I'd like to flush the coolant system as I put the new radiator in. My plan was, when the old radiator is removed, just pop off the thermostat, and put a garden hose in there. Remove the serpentine belt so that the water pump can move freely, and then just turn on the hose and cover the gap around the garden hose with my hand, forcing the water through the system.

And then disconnect one end of the heater hose, and flush that as well.

Will that work? I'd kinda like to get it flushed before the new radiator is in place, any suggestions? Or should I just put the new radiator in, and do a normal flush through the top of the radiator?

[mrchips]

Genright sells a HD radiator for a good price, dont know much about it, but the specs seem to be better than the OEm radiator and at a better price.
Ck under New Products on there site.http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....5#.VH87sig77zs

[daniel_buck]

if it actually opens up after 18psi, then i's probably fine then. Now I need to find that actual PSI out

Thanks Russ

[Russ Chung]

According to the FSM,

[COLOR="#0000CD"]The cap contains a springloaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 124-145 kPa (18-21 psi).
If pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at least 110 kPa (16 psi) replace cap.
Refer to the following CAUTION.
The pressure cap may test properly while positioned on tool 7700 (or equivalent). It may not hold
pressure or vacuum when installed on radiator. If so, inspect radiator filler neck and cap’s top gasket for
damage. Also inspect for dirt or distortion that may prevent cap from sealing properly.[/COLOR]

[daniel_buck]

I'm not sure what the spec for TJs is, whatever it was I ordered said it was compatible for my year and engine. I think my old willys CJ has a 4 psi cap

[Lumpy Grits]

My local NAPA can test caps. Maybe your's can.
Is 18 psi the OEM spec?
Think'n my CJ's cap is 16 psi, IIRC.
LG

[daniel_buck]

I know right!? it's not a location where they normally crack, from what I'm seeing online. Looks like it just straight up BURST, haha.

Funny thing is though, I just got back from a road trip that was 4+ hours of driving this weekend, and nothing happened to it, it was only a few days later that it happened. Well, I did bust the idler pulley mid-trip, the bearing exploded, and what remained fused to the mounting shaft, which I cut off with a hack saw and found a junk yard part to bolt a new pulley onto. But by some miracle that belt never slipped off the pulley even though the pulley was wobbling all around like crazy, and the water pump kept on pumping for 80 miles before we repaired the idler pulley.

But anyway, I just put a new cap on there 2 weeks ago, I believe it's 18psi. Maybe I should test it, and/or replace it with another one? How do you test the PSI on a radiator cap?

[Lumpy Grits]

WOW!
What psi cap are you run'n?
LG

[daniel_buck]

I made it home without over heating. And I found an OEM Mopar radiator, it's on it's way.

Here's the crack, pretty obvious once everything was dry.

[Lumpy Grits]

I would not fix what ain't broke--
I've seen new FC's go TU also.
Wonder if there is a real brass radiator made that will fit??
LG