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  • Weird starting problem

    My 98 Tj, 4.0 recently started having this weird problem when I go to start it. Ok when I turn the key on and the engine starts cranking and cranking and cranking but wont start until I stop cranking it, and when I crank it for the second time it fires right up. So now when I hop in the Jeep I crank it over a couple of times, turn the key off, then crank it again to start. Has this happen to anybody else. I've replaced all the plugs, wires, rotor, cap, throttle body, fuel filter and even added some ejector fluids.... but it still only fires up after turning the key off and cranking it over the second time.

  • #2
    Sounds like it has the fuel pressure regulator malady.Coulkd be wrong, but try to measure fuelpressure at the fuel rail when you crank it the first try or even when you just cycle the key should jump up to atleast 50 psi from the get go

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    • #3
      Originally posted by aw12345 View Post
      Sounds like it has the fuel pressure regulator malady.Coulkd be wrong, but try to measure fuelpressure at the fuel rail when you crank it the first try or even when you just cycle the key should jump up to atleast 50 psi from the get go
      Could this explain maybe why when I now top off my gas at the station I get gas underneath? I see that there's a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail and another on the fuel tank. Maybe since I get a gas leak when I top off mines on the tank?

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      • #4
        Regulator should be on the tank is the silver looking dome thing on top of the fuelpump

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        • #5
          Originally posted by aw12345 View Post
          Regulator should be on the tank is the silver looking dome thing on top of the fuelpump
          Ok guess I'll have to drive around until my tank is pretty close to empty, pull the skid plate then the tank. Why couldn't it of been the one on the fuel rail......much easier to do.....lol

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          • #6
            Depending on how attached you are to keeping your cargo area 100% original you might be able to find directions to cut the floor out for easy access to it.
            God forgives, rocks don't
            -sons of thunder

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 6spdYJ View Post
              Depending on how attached you are to keeping your cargo area 100% original you might be able to find directions to cut the floor out for easy access to it.
              This is actually a great idea.... this will keep me from having to drop the fuel tank. I can use "14 Gauge Swivel Head Shears" sold at Harbor Freight for $45, and this will be nice to have if I ever need to replace a fuel pump out on the trail. Now I just need to find the dimensions of where to cut the hole.... anyone have these?
              1998 TJ

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              • #8
                I cut a hole for acess to my fuel pump and sender in my scrambler and covered it with an aftermarket fuel door. it sits flush and looks great.
                It's not what you have. it's what you do with what you have.

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                • #9
                  How far forward (towards the front of jeep) do I need to go from the center of the inside of my tailgate do I need to go to put me in the center of the fuel pump?

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                  • #10
                    Lots of writeups about this for YJ's. Don't know if TJ's are different. The best I found for YJ's is start 8 1/2" from the outer edge of the tailgate lip and forward to 14". Then from the drivers side wheelwell, start at 14" and go out to 22". The booger with the YJ is there's a crossmember tack welded under the floor to keep the floor more rigid. Even starting at 8 1/2" will still nick the forward edge of it.
                    God forgives, rocks don't
                    -sons of thunder

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 6spdYJ View Post
                      Lots of writeups about this for YJ's. Don't know if TJ's are different. The best I found for YJ's is start 8 1/2" from the outer edge of the tailgate lip and forward to 14". Then from the drivers side wheelwell, start at 14" and go out to 22". The booger with the YJ is there's a crossmember tack welded under the floor to keep the floor more rigid. Even starting at 8 1/2" will still nick the forward edge of it.
                      Thanks so much for those measurements... YJ or not I'm going to go with them and keep my fingers crossed. I'll post back with the results.

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                      • #12
                        My jeep has same problem.talked to a guy that works at jeep and he said pressure regulator at the tank.i have to turn key on /off three times till it builds enough pressure to start.too lazy to drop tank .

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by xthread View Post
                          My jeep has same problem.talked to a guy that works at jeep and he said pressure regulator at the tank.i have to turn key on /off three times till it builds enough pressure to start.too lazy to drop tank .
                          Have you decided on what route you are going to go with, either drop the tank or cut a hole in the cargo area.... if it wasn't so damn expensive i'd just take it to the shop but I cant afford that at this time.

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                          • #14
                            When I get tired of doing the 123 I will drop the tank and do it right.dont want to cut up the jeep.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by xthread View Post
                              When I get tired of doing the 123 I will drop the tank and do it right.dont want to cut up the jeep.
                              With all due respect, it's a Jeep. It will never have it's MSRP value again. Fighting it "right" will mean fighting it again. BTDT 3x.
                              God forgives, rocks don't
                              -sons of thunder

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