Welcome to the forums at MyJeepRocks.com. You'll need to log in or register
before you can post. If you're having trouble, please contact us. Happy trails!
One hard-to-kill totally false rumor about welding on vehicles is that the battery needs to be disconnected. Electrically speaking, there is no benefit to doing so. In fact, the battery isn't harmed by welding on a vehicle when it is connected and actually, having the battery in the circuit could theoretically filter (a battery also acts as a huge filter capacitor) out any spikes, though properly attaching the grounding clip close to the welding site makes any electrical spikes very unlikely. It truly is a false rumor the battery needs to be connected. That it does gets passed on like the gospel but it's of no benefit and simply isn't needed. Not to mention disco'ing the battery only disconnects the battery from the electrical system, everything else remains connected... like the far more sensitive components including the engine computer and alternator.
All this despite what someone's friend's cousin who is an "expert welder" said, since if you think about it, few welders know anything about electrical/electronic circuits beyond how to create a short circuit and melt metal.
So the Ready Welder II comes with a warning.
Are you guys carrying gas on the trail, welding with flux core in reverse polarity, or just ignoring the warning?
I use flux core and I disconnect the battery from the Jeep. I worry to much about my ECM.
I also have a 1/2" PVC tube with some 6011 just in case. :wink:
I've got a bunch of rods and an old stick welder, and I happen to have 2 batteries I should give this a try. I'd love to have the ability to fix something by welding on the trail.
I like my redneck welder too. 3/32 6011 got me home from Parker AZ on a broken-in-half track bar and it got me out of the middle of Holcomb Creek and into Big Bear and then home when a heim joint crapped out. Cheap, but it does take some practice.
That is similar to what I carry Curtis. If you try test welding with it before you need it on the trail, I am pretty sure that like me, you'll find you need three batteries connected in series to make it weld acceptably. At least with the thicknesses of steel we most commonly need to weld on the trail. One battery isn't even close to enough & you'll find the stick will stick to the weld too easily with just two batteries. Add another short jumper cable so you can add that 3rd battery & you should be good to go.
You get around adding a third battery by using smaller rod. 1/16- 5/32 6010 6011 6013 welds very nicely on two batteries. They require 20-30 amps to burn correctly which is about what you get at the stinger with two batteries. Practice makes perfect though. I like my red neck welder personally...
Edit: Besides, ready welders and the like are too damn expensive.
Interesting about the straight polarity, I've never heard that. Did they not include warnings about disconnecting the battery or keeping your electrode and ground clamp close? Fuel tank warnings?
Almost all of the on-vehicle welding I've done (and I've done a fair amount) has been reverse polarity, but I have done a little on-vehicle straight polarity with stick and flux core without ill effect (FWIW). Like Curtis said, always disconnect the battery(ies) before welding. Always keep your ground as close to the welding as possible, not just for efficiency, but to keep the current going in a safe path between electrode and ground. Never weld with your ground clamp and your electrode on opposite sides of the vehicle, or even opposite sides of ground straps, etc.
There are two types of welding processes that you can perform with the Ready Welder II
1) M.I.G. Welding (Metal Inert Gas)
To weld with a shielding gas and solid wire in reverse polarity.
2) Flux Core Welding
To weld without inert gas using wire infused with flux. This process requires straight polarity.
You can only weld on a vehicle with the Ready Welder II in Reverse Polarity. Using the Ready Welder II in Straight Polarity could cause damage to your electrical system.
Most (96%) of all vehicles are Reverse Polarity (Negative Ground)
When welding ON a vehicle Reverse Polarity MUST be used. The only safe way to use Straight Polarity is OFF the vehicle.
Are you guys carrying gas on the trail, welding with flux core in reverse polarity, or just ignoring the warning?
That is similar to what I carry Curtis. If you try test welding with it before you need it on the trail, I am pretty sure that like me, you'll find you need three batteries connected in series to make it weld acceptably. At least with the thicknesses of steel we most commonly need to weld on the trail. One battery isn't even close to enough & you'll find the stick will stick to the weld too easily with just two batteries. Add another short jumper cable so you can add that 3rd battery & you should be good to go.
When I had my FToy, I carried stuff like Curtis shows for trail repairs. Works fine, but you need to use two batteries.
On board welders:
I have experience with two; Mobi Arc and Premier.
I had a Mobi Arc installed in my CJ7 and it worked fine. I removed it when I sold the CJ and I am thinking I should put it in my JK. http://www.perfectswitch.com/mobi-arc/
Leave a comment: