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  • Jerry Bransford
    replied
    One hard-to-kill totally false rumor about welding on vehicles is that the battery needs to be disconnected. Electrically speaking, there is no benefit to doing so. In fact, the battery isn't harmed by welding on a vehicle when it is connected and actually, having the battery in the circuit could theoretically filter (a battery also acts as a huge filter capacitor) out any spikes, though properly attaching the grounding clip close to the welding site makes any electrical spikes very unlikely. It truly is a false rumor the battery needs to be connected. That it does gets passed on like the gospel but it's of no benefit and simply isn't needed. Not to mention disco'ing the battery only disconnects the battery from the electrical system, everything else remains connected... like the far more sensitive components including the engine computer and alternator.

    All this despite what someone's friend's cousin who is an "expert welder" said, since if you think about it, few welders know anything about electrical/electronic circuits beyond how to create a short circuit and melt metal.
    Last edited by Jerry Bransford; 06-28-13, 07:36 AM.

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  • dirtman13
    replied
    Originally posted by FishPOET View Post
    So the Ready Welder II comes with a warning.
    Are you guys carrying gas on the trail, welding with flux core in reverse polarity, or just ignoring the warning?
    I use flux core and I disconnect the battery from the Jeep. I worry to much about my ECM.

    I also have a 1/2" PVC tube with some 6011 just in case. :wink:

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  • daniel_buck
    replied
    I've got a bunch of rods and an old stick welder, and I happen to have 2 batteries I should give this a try. I'd love to have the ability to fix something by welding on the trail.

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  • Mike
    replied
    Originally posted by curtis View Post
    I use 3/32 in 6011 & 7018.
    I like my redneck welder too. 3/32 6011 got me home from Parker AZ on a broken-in-half track bar and it got me out of the middle of Holcomb Creek and into Big Bear and then home when a heim joint crapped out. Cheap, but it does take some practice.

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  • curtis
    replied
    I use 3/32 in 6011 & 7018.
    Last edited by curtis; 06-27-13, 01:56 PM.

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  • RAT
    replied
    Originally posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
    That is similar to what I carry Curtis. If you try test welding with it before you need it on the trail, I am pretty sure that like me, you'll find you need three batteries connected in series to make it weld acceptably. At least with the thicknesses of steel we most commonly need to weld on the trail. One battery isn't even close to enough & you'll find the stick will stick to the weld too easily with just two batteries. Add another short jumper cable so you can add that 3rd battery & you should be good to go.
    You get around adding a third battery by using smaller rod. 1/16- 5/32 6010 6011 6013 welds very nicely on two batteries. They require 20-30 amps to burn correctly which is about what you get at the stinger with two batteries. Practice makes perfect though. I like my red neck welder personally...

    Edit: Besides, ready welders and the like are too damn expensive.

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  • NAILER341
    replied
    I have always welded with the RED light on for Flux core wire. I do disconnect my battery when using it to weld.



    Originally posted by FishPOET View Post
    So the Ready Welder II comes with a warning.



    Are you guys carrying gas on the trail, welding with flux core in reverse polarity, or just ignoring the warning?

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  • inVERt'D
    replied
    Interesting about the straight polarity, I've never heard that. Did they not include warnings about disconnecting the battery or keeping your electrode and ground clamp close? Fuel tank warnings?

    Almost all of the on-vehicle welding I've done (and I've done a fair amount) has been reverse polarity, but I have done a little on-vehicle straight polarity with stick and flux core without ill effect (FWIW). Like Curtis said, always disconnect the battery(ies) before welding. Always keep your ground as close to the welding as possible, not just for efficiency, but to keep the current going in a safe path between electrode and ground. Never weld with your ground clamp and your electrode on opposite sides of the vehicle, or even opposite sides of ground straps, etc.

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  • curtis
    replied
    I disconnect the battery from jeep when welding.

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  • FishPOET
    replied
    Originally posted by NAILER341 View Post
    I have been using the Ready Welder" for quite some time and highly recommend it.
    http://www.readywelder.com/
    Originally posted by dirtman13 View Post
    x2. Very easy to use.
    So the Ready Welder II comes with a warning.

    Originally posted by Ready Welder II
    There are two types of welding processes that you can perform with the Ready Welder II

    1) M.I.G. Welding (Metal Inert Gas)
    To weld with a shielding gas and solid wire in reverse polarity.

    2) Flux Core Welding
    To weld without inert gas using wire infused with flux. This process requires straight polarity.

    You can only weld on a vehicle with the Ready Welder II in Reverse Polarity. Using the Ready Welder II in Straight Polarity could cause damage to your electrical system.

    Most (96%) of all vehicles are Reverse Polarity (Negative Ground)

    When welding ON a vehicle Reverse Polarity MUST be used. The only safe way to use Straight Polarity is OFF the vehicle.
    Are you guys carrying gas on the trail, welding with flux core in reverse polarity, or just ignoring the warning?

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  • Jerry Bransford
    replied
    That is similar to what I carry Curtis. If you try test welding with it before you need it on the trail, I am pretty sure that like me, you'll find you need three batteries connected in series to make it weld acceptably. At least with the thicknesses of steel we most commonly need to weld on the trail. One battery isn't even close to enough & you'll find the stick will stick to the weld too easily with just two batteries. Add another short jumper cable so you can add that 3rd battery & you should be good to go.

    Leave a comment:


  • dirtman13
    replied
    Originally posted by NAILER341 View Post
    I have been using the Ready Welder" for quite some time and highly recommend it.
    http://www.readywelder.com/

    http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst...884397478.html
    x2. Very easy to use.

    Leave a comment:


  • curtis
    replied
    Originally posted by Hook&Ladder View Post
    Curtis what size is the wire (# and length) for the clamps? I will be duplicating your set up so I can weld on Mikes jeep on trail runs
    #2 welding wire, 8 to 10 ft. The thing to do is practice with it in your garage so you get used to it.
    I would also recommend the Ready Welder.

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  • NAILER341
    replied
    I have been using the Ready Welder" for quite some time and highly recommend it.
    http://www.readywelder.com/

    http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst...884397478.html

    Leave a comment:


  • Ol Man
    replied
    When I had my FToy, I carried stuff like Curtis shows for trail repairs. Works fine, but you need to use two batteries.

    On board welders:

    I have experience with two; Mobi Arc and Premier.

    I had a Mobi Arc installed in my CJ7 and it worked fine. I removed it when I sold the CJ and I am thinking I should put it in my JK.
    http://www.perfectswitch.com/mobi-arc/

    I have a Premier in my buggy and it also works fine.
    http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/

    Leave a comment:

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