Quadrajet carb?

[1 Bad F N Z]

Anybody have a Quadrajet carb I could beg barrow or steal? I've had enough of fuel injection. Cruiser starts right up, runs for 5 seconds then dies. After a year of fighting this bullshit I give up. Kevin.

[aw12345]

Get a Edelbrock carb, they are a copy of the old Carter AFB carb those always worked good for me. Quardrajets love to leak out of the bottom plugs. Since you have a Chevy engine, why not get a whole GM TBI setup from the junkyard. Those are readily available, cheap and very reliable

[jonah]

What motor and fuel injection are you running?

[1 Bad F N Z]

What motor and fuel injection are you running?

Stroker 383, Professional Products Power injection III. Runs good when it wants to run. Heat sensitive. Just started to a week or so ago, start right up, run 3-4 seconds die. Okay, that's diferent. Hit her again and she'd run. Went out this morning to run her down the hill and it did it like 5-6 times, start right up then die. Did it at therapy earlier this week, and also Friday at the bank. Once it starts she runs good. When Scott and I were at the Hammers, we drove from camp to Chocolate Thunder. Turn her off, walked the trail, came back and all she wanted to do was to crank. Lifted the hood, looked around, sumbitch fired right up. While running Sledge hammer, whenever I had to get out to help Scott, I would open hood and let it air out, fire right up. I had better luck with my old two barrel. Go anywhere anytime and never worried that she would get me home. I've bout had enough. Kevin.

[Zoobi]

You'll have better luck with the edlbrock and there are more areas to tune. About 10 years ago I tried to replace my quadrajet. Trying to find one that wasn't warped was a pain. Summit has (or had) quadrajets, I got one from them but it didn't come jetted for the application like it was suppose to. The needles and jets were for a small block, I ordered one for a big block.
As Art suggested, you can go with the GM throttle body. Ive installed a number of them from Howell fuel injection, that was the company I mentioned when we were riding around big bear last week.

Scott

[jonah]

Sorry to hear about the trouble. I know I had to work on my FI for a while before I got the bugs out. I was at the point of ripping it out a couple times. My main problem was running the computer off the HEI distributor tack signal, it didn't like it and would be fine sometimes and not others. Since it is failing when hot I might be checking if the TPS is starting to go. Anyway, back to the question at hand...

For that motor would it take a 650 or 750 cfm carb?

Hope you get a solution soon!

[1 Bad F N Z]

Sorry to hear about the trouble. I know I had to work on my FI for a while before I got the bugs out. I was at the point of ripping it out a couple times. My main problem was running the computer off the HEI distributor tack signal, it didn't like it and would be fine sometimes and not others. Since it is failing when hot I might be checking if the TPS is starting to go. Anyway, back to the question at hand...

For that motor would it take a 650 or 750 cfm carb?

Hope you get a solution soon!

I done some researching and have found that if you lose battery power, it can corrupt the files. MMMMM maybe a 12 volt lawnmower battery just for the efi? I am not an expert, but if I remember right most Q-jet are 750 cfm. Years ago tried the edlebrock carb and it was great for the street, simple to work on, but I think it didn't like downhill angles due to how the floats are mounted on the sides. The Q-jet float is in the center of the carb. I thought I was bringing the old girl into the 21st century, now Im ready to go back to the 20th.
When we ran the hammers we came out by the sand hills and dropped the hammer, she would only rev to 3800 rpm. ????????? Scott out pulled me.
I will be contacting Professional Products Monday. I may be backwards, but with my old 2 barrel I'd go anywhere by myself, and knew that I'd be coming home. Now.........

[jonah]

That could be possible, a good question for the techs at Professional Products. If it is limiting the revs it might be in some kind of limp home mode. I am not familiar with that system.

Once you get them working right FI systems are great, but I can feel your pain about wanting to go back to the tried and true carb when they are not working. I sent you a PM.

[aw12345]

I done some researching and have found that if you lose battery power, it can corrupt the files. MMMMM maybe a 12 volt lawnmower battery just for the efi? I am not an expert, but if I remember right most Q-jet are 750 cfm. Years ago tried the edlebrock carb and it was great for the street, simple to work on, but I think it didn't like downhill angles due to how the floats are mounted on the sides. The Q-jet float is in the center of the carb. I thought I was bringing the old girl into the 21st century, now Im ready to go back to the 20th.
When we ran the hammers we came out by the sand hills and dropped the hammer, she would only rev to 3800 rpm. ????????? Scott out pulled me.
I will be contacting Professional Products Monday. I may be backwards, but with my old 2 barrel I'd go anywhere by myself, and knew that I'd be coming home. Now.........

Most any ecm these days has condensers in them to retain part of it's neccesary information

[1 Bad F N Z]

Hopefully, if they will answer their phones, I will be talking with PP Monday. When my son-in-law gets back from his vacation, I will have him come over with his laptop. Yes, I do not have a laptop. Shame on me. But hey I never felt the need for one with a carburetor. I'm rapidly thinking , sensors, bhah, hum bug.

[1 Bad F N Z]

Bought a computer and the files were corrupted. Air/Fuel was between 12.8 and 13.1 Got it tuned up and set A/F at 14.2. Found a bad connection on the ignition wire that would steal spark from the computer. Here is where I believe all my trouble has been since getting her together. Running really good and crisp. Went to the mountains Sunday and she was running good, but when we went to leave she didn't want to start. After 3 times trying to start her she fired up and off we went. Notice that when the water temperature temp got around 210 she would start to stutter. Ran fans and cooled her off and she would run fine. Betting on the distributor module. What do you think? Kevin.

[aw12345]

210 degrees shouldn't be terribly hot for an engine. With the computer can you read data from the ecm?

[jonah]

A/F between 12.8 and 13.1 is a little rich but should run fine so I don't think that was your problem. Mine won't cut out until it goes under 9.5 or over 16.

Are you gettting the spark signal off the coil or from the distributor? What type of distributor are you running? I am thinking your are right in looking at the module, I might also suspect the coil. I have had a coil that would cut out as soon as it got hot.

[jonah]

Also a little tidbit about A/F. While 14.7 is the stoichiometric ratio that is supposed to let the charge burn most efficiently with the least amount of pollution. Most motors actually make more power at a slightly richer setting. It depends on the motor, but older designs tend to run better in the mid to upper 12s. Mine seems to run best around 13 although there is not a huge difference anywhere between 12.7 and 14.7.

[1 Bad F N Z]

Running an HEI distributor. And the ECM on the throttle body gets its signal from the negative side of the distributor. I'm thinking that if the module is acting up, its going to affect everything. I have the old distributor that I had already rebuilt, new coil, new mod, cap, rotor. I knew from the old motor that it was good. Got nothing to lose by trying. Did a MPG test since resetting the A/F ratio. Fighting a head wind north and south, wind blowing hard from the west, mileage went from 9-10 MPG to 12.6. . Now that was a major improvement. I remember when we ran points and a coil, that when the coil got hot they'd fail, but once they cooled off they work for awhile. Betting on this, Kevin.