TJ: Bending Shifter

[Moabrubi]

Hey guys, I just got my BL and MML on and have some issues with the shifter hitting the boot/bezel on the console. I tried bending it by putting it in a vise and getting it red hot but it won't budge.

I won't get my tummy tuck on for a few months which will fix the issue so I'd like to get the boot back on in the meantime. Anyone have any advice for me? Or better yet anyone have a press to help me bend this sucker?

I'm in Rancho Cucamonga.

Thanks.

[aw12345]

slip a pipe over it when it's red hot it will budge

[Taphorn]

You could always run without the console boot in the jeep till you do the tummy tuck, that way you won't feel the need to bend it back either

[daniel_buck]

I put mine in a vice, heated it and bent it with the closed end of a large box wrench (pipe would work too! probably even better)

Taphorn may have a good idea, take the console out until your setup is final, then adjust the shifter.

However, I didn't need to bend mine until after the tummy tuck, that's when it was the worst, I would have been punching the dash with my fist in 1st, 3rd and 5th. After the BL and MML, I didn't feel the need to bend the shifter. But after the TT, the shifter needed to be bent. I run without the console, so I'm just referring to how close the shifter was to the dash, not to the console bezel.

[Jerry Bransford]

In my experience, a propane torch doesn't put out enough heat to make bending the shifter anything but difficult. A MAP gas torch like is sold by Lowes, Home Depot, etc. puts out a lot more heat and makes that job far easier.

Like this one...

[daniel_buck]

that's kind of like a mini O/A setup, eh? (but MAP instead of acetylene) Are the ones at home depot worth getting? How hot can it get, hot enough to braze or weld?

I've been kind of wanting a better way to heat up things than just MAP or just propane. a propane/map with oxygen mixed torch would probably do the trick eh? I've been wanting an O/A setup, but I don't have a whole lot of room for two additional full-sized tanks.

[Jerry Bransford]

A MAP gas system can certainly braze & solder of course but it's not suitable for welding structural steel like we have on our Jeeps. The MAP setup in the above photo is what I bought from Home Depot & it certainly works well enough for the suggested task which was getting a shifter hot enough to bend. But even with its hotter temperature, it's still not easy to bend a shifter. It was a struggle to bend my Novak shifter rod with the MAP gas system but at least it worked better than my propane torch that couldn't get it hot enough. For welding, it's hard to beat a MIG or stick welder with MIG being much easier to learn.

[Moabrubi]

Got it! I got rid of my cheap craftsman chinese vice and got a really nice made in USA vice on craigslist. I slipped the handle from my floor jack over it and it went like butter. I didn't even need to heat it up! I needed to make another bend as when I got it to where I needed I was punching the dash. Put another bend in it and now i am rocking the boot again. Ill just bend it again when I put my TT on.

Thanks everybody. Hope to see you all on the trails.

[daniel_buck]

Jerry, thanks for the info

I've got a Mig welder (and a beat up old stick welder), just wanted to eventually get into some sort of torch welding, for more 'artsy' stuff, and possibly metals other than just steel. TIG is just way out of my price range right now, although eventually that's what I want to do.

I did, however, bend my shifter with propane. I had to let the propane sit there for 10+ minutes before it got the shifter red hot.

[aw12345]

By the way when doing a tummytuck a motormount lift helps the whole afair a lot tilts the shifter back some and also helps driveline angles. With a tummytuck you really need to check the driveshaft CV joint at full droop, to make sure it doesn't bind or it isn't going to last very long

[Moabrubi]

By the way when doing a tummytuck a motormount lift helps the whole afair a lot tilts the shifter back some and also helps driveline angles. With a tummytuck you really need to check the driveshaft CV joint at full droop, to make sure it doesn't bind or it isn't going to last very long

It took a good bit of bending so I'm sure after the TT I will have to mess with it a bit more.

I talked to Tom Woods and he said to get a 1310 driveshaft for that very reason. I also talked to several people with that setup and they say they have no binding. I have the skid so now if I could just get everything to go along with it!

[daniel_buck]

the 1310 is what I have, I believe. With 4" of spring lift (and 1.25" BL and 1" ML) and a skid that's only 1" lower than the frame at the lowest point. You should probably be fine, so long as you can rock the rear axle back a bit with some adjustable control arms.

I don't think the transfer case is going up any higher unless the tub starts bulging a bit I did use a novak transfer case shifter as well, once you get it in there, it's nice I don't know what would need to be done to make the factory transfer case shifter work when the transfer case is pushed up so much.

[aw12345]

You lower the pivot that bolts to the trans/ transfercase. I welded 2 tabs to it bolted it back in place. works like a charm

[Moabrubi]

Danielbuck I was the guy that PMed you on Jeepforum about your driveshaft. I plan on running the same as you with 4" of spring lift 1.25" BL and 1" MML and UnderCover fab Ultra high skid/lopro mount (already on it's way).

I have the Novak sitting in the garage, But I don't need it at the moment so I'm in no rush to put it on. I still need adjustable arms and a driveshaft to get the skid on, But I figure since I'm going to add 4" springs and all the other goodies later I might as well wait to order the driveshaft. Even though I do have a tom woods $100 gift certificate that expires in July.

[daniel_buck]

Oh shoot, we have a pretty similar setup, nice