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fixed the york 210 heating issue

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  • fixed the york 210 heating issue

    Finally dropped the time & dime for some copper tubing for the OBA today. After yrs of dealing with melting rubber air lines coming off the york from continuous use I decided to run 10 ft of 3/8" copper tubing in a spiral to act as a heat sink/intercooler.. A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE. Had I had the tools it would of ran me about 30 bucks for everything. Ended up costing 60. Havent flared a tube since A&P school and it gave me some good memories. Bought a small copper tube bender for 15 but didnt use it. I just used a roll of duct tape and pressed the tube against it to form it in a spiral.Turned out pretty dang good I must say..

    Anyone running a York 210 and have NOT done this mod yet,,, do it. After airing all 4 tires up (5 minutes continues use on the compressor) the first couple of spiral turns were hot, but by the 5th or 6th wrap I could hold it and it wasnt all that bad. The rubber air hose just after it (near the firewall) was cool to the touch.. Before it would be concerningly hot.
    Next I plan to run the air breather/filter to the front of the radiator just behind the winch. Should keep it even cooler since it'll be pulling ambient air instead of engine heated air...
    1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!

  • #2
    Nice job and Idea. Maybe you could make some Moonshine with it. HeHe
    IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!

    Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!

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    • #3
      A leader hose from Via air, or Heavyduty truck air compressor works well you can get that stuff from a good hose place.
      It's teflon/ nylon inner liner with a braided stainless jacket.

      Looks like this silver hose



      Copper tubing works well to dissipate the heat, but there is a fairly good change that in time it will crack at the flare. Back in time all the big rigs used copper line coming of the air compressor, now a day they all use the stainless steel braided hose

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      • #4
        at a buck a ft for the copper and at about 1000 miles a yr on the jeep I'll take my chances. And when the flare should crack, I'll snip 1/2 an inch and re-reflare..
        1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!

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        • #5
          A double flared end will help.
          IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!

          Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!

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          • #6
            X2. I finally found just the arbors for double flares to fit my flare tool at McMaster Carr. Been looking everywhere.
            [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
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            http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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            • #7
              how about a link?
              1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!

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              • #8
                Go to auto zone. You can use one for free. That way you don't need to buy one.
                IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!

                Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!

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                • #9
                  They rent flare kits? Dang it! I usually do that for tools but didn't think they'd actually have a flare kit. Oh well.........
                  1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!

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                  • #10
                    When I had my CJ7 I mounted a York. The first hose connection was with standard hose. FAIL big time. Hose clamps don't work well. I ended up having a hose place make up one with high pressure hose and the proper fittings for my setup at each end and never had a problem again.
                    Rich

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                    • #11
                      That's a good fix, I almost did that to fix the same issue I had with my York after first installing it. A cheaper solution proved to be a length of 3/8" Goodyear high-temp transmission cooler hose instead. That stuff held up very well, at least for the ten years it was installed until the last day I saw that Jeep when it was stolen a couple years ago. Like this... http://www.autobarn.net/sti3xxxx.htm...FeGDQgodYn0A5w
                      Last edited by Jerry Bransford; 12-22-12, 01:22 PM.
                      The Geezer Jeep: http://www.greentractortalk.com/jerryb/index.htm

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                      • #12
                        I did something similar with stainless steel. I wanted a heat sink before my coalescing filter. I bought a 3ft, 3/8 line with flairs and fittings from pep boys and coiled that. Stainless is harder to work with and you cant get the bends as tight though.
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