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YJ 4.0 budget stroker build

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  • YJ 4.0 budget stroker build

    Hi everyone,

    I have been reading about HESCO's aluminum head for $2,000 that gives you 30 hps and some more torque, and I have also read about building a budget 4.6l stroker for several grand. You can also order a built longblock directly from HESCO for around $8,000. My YJ has about 110,000 miles on it and is running fine. With my 4.88 gears and current 35" Swampers (going to MTR w Kevlar in a few months) I would just like to be able to keep up with traffic on the highway and not have to downshift going up some hills on I-5. I have a header, Borla exhaust and cold air intake w KnN, so I am wondering if any of you have any thoughts or ideas about getting some more out of the 4.0L without spending over 2-3000 with labor included. I have a good mech locally in Hermosa Beach and I don't have the tools or knowledge to do the work myself so just looking for some ideas for the forum.

    http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html
    http://www.quadratec.com/Showcases/j...ement_engines/
    http://www.quadratec.com/products/17009_300.htm


    Thanks,
    B

  • #2
    Originally posted by vwtipeii View Post
    Hi everyone,

    I have been reading about HESCO's aluminum head for $2,000 that gives you 30 hps and some more torque, and I have also read about building a budget 4.6l stroker for several grand. You can also order a built longblock directly from HESCO for around $8,000. My YJ has about 110,000 miles on it and is running fine. With my 4.88 gears and current 35" Swampers (going to MTR w Kevlar in a few months) I would just like to be able to keep up with traffic on the highway and not have to downshift going up some hills on I-5. I have a header, Borla exhaust and cold air intake w KnN, so I am wondering if any of you have any thoughts or ideas about getting some more out of the 4.0L without spending over 2-3000 with labor included. I have a good mech locally in Hermosa Beach and I don't have the tools or knowledge to do the work myself so just looking for some ideas for the forum.

    http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html
    http://www.quadratec.com/Showcases/j...ement_engines/
    http://www.quadratec.com/products/17009_300.htm


    Thanks,
    B
    If you wish to speak to someone who has quite a bit of experience with the stroker motor, give Richard Gauthier at G&G in Bakersfield a call. His number is here:

    http://www.manta.com/c/mtdpjvv/g-g-auto-repair

    I realize Bakersfield is quite a way from you, but it might be worth it. I have wheeled with him for years. He is a Cherokee guy and raced KOH two years in his XJ based buggy. I know he has a local engine shop he has worked with to make a nice stroker for a very good price.
    Rich

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    • #3
      There are a few tweaks you can do to a stock 4.0 to get a bit more power. Start with a good header and free-flowing muffler. A good intake kit like the AFE Brute Force will help too (it's a dry filter, so no oil to load up with dust). But, without spending any money, you can slot your CPS to gain some spark advance (up to 4 degrees) and you can move your intake air temp sensor to the front of the airbox. Or just bypass it with a 220 Ohm resistor - but, you will always be in open loop.

      If you want to build a stroker, start with a 97 or later block - they have better webbing, use a 0720 casting head from a YJ 4.0. The early 258 cranks had 12 counter weights - look for one of these. You will have to have the snout cut to match the 4.0 crank. A stock cam from a 99 or newer with an intake from 99 and up will flow the best. I've read of using Ford 5.0 injectors, Dodge 5.9 injectors and even Neon injectors. If you are going to this extent, use the 4.0 rods, they are longer and provide more dwell time of the combustion on the crankshaft = more torque. But the bigger reason is that a longer rod smoothes out the transition in pressure on the wrist pin to reduce piston slap - which kills pistons, rings and blocks - its a durability thing. But this puts you in the market for custom pistons with a higher wrist pin. You could use the stock 258 rods, but you'd be back to dealing with the aforementioned issues.

      http://bc4x4.com/tech/bryce/stroker/stroker.cfm
      www.jeepstrokers.com
      God forgives, rocks don't
      -sons of thunder

      Comment


      • #4
        Check out www.jeepstrokers.com There are a few dozen build threads that you can read thru.
        Those left standing
        Will make millions
        Writing books on ways
        It should have been
        -Incubus "Warning"

        Comment


        • #5
          ok spending 2000 on a head for a motor with 110000 miles on it for only 30 horses is kinda stupid. strokers are nice but ive heard that they are tempermental. i hate to tell u this but the 4.0 was never designed to do burn outs. they are dogs thats why u have to gear the shit out of em to get them to move. i would do a motor swap such as a 4.3vortec or even a v8. these swaps are done all the time almost as commonally as stroker builds. and i can almost tell that everyone who has done the 4.3 swap will never go back to the 4.0 plus u can find 4.3s all day for well under a grand running with computer. i personaaly hate the 4.0 over heating gutless p.o.s. had i have known more before i dumped 3000 into having my motor rebuilt i would not have the 4.0 in my jeep now. im just being honest. but stoker builds are easy and the parts are cheap. half of them u can get at the bone yard. its having the labor done is whats get ya. but ur in the right spot if ur looking for answers. all u have to do is make a decision and then post up how do i make it happen.

          Comment


          • #6
            I'll sell you my set up that I've been building and can no longer finish due to my housing situation.
            I have a 97 block bored 20 over. decked, honed, magged everything..
            the block is fully built CORRECTLY minus the timing chain.
            have all the gaskets, no covers.
            7120 head rebuilt, 3 angle, fully built up and ready to install minus rocker arms( I have them seperate) and pushrods.
            banks header with gasket
            99+ intake with gasket
            dakota T/B (larger bore)
            12wt 1978 258 crank, machined, ground, and balanced.

            All you'd need is the ignition set up, injectors( ford 5.0's),covers, timing chain, water pump, and a few misc items.

            I've got about 2500 into it so far and will sell it for 1500. With a stand.
            I barely even drive the jeep anymore and it's just not a practical project to build being that I now have to be in a room mate situation in a house that isn't my own due to a seperation and can barely even get the jeep in the garage. It's a well planned build for a long lasting engine. give me a pm if interested.
            1st batch TJ bought August of 96. Locked and Loaded!

            Comment

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