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  • CJ: Towing without Trailer

    Can someone tell me what's the best way to tow my jeep. I don't have a trailer but I do have a tow bar. I've heard to put both transmission and transfer case in neutral. I've also heard I'll I need to do is put the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in a gear (?) Then put bungee cords on my steering wheel to keep it straight. Anyone?

  • #2
    With your Jeep all you need to do is put the tcase in neutral and the transmission in gear. No bungee cords are needed on the steering wheel the caster angle in your front end will cause the jeep to track nicely. Some people have horror stories about their transfer cases popping back into gear and damaging the engine and transmission. After some research I don't mind taking the 10 minutes to disconnect and tie up the drive shafts before flat towing any long distances. It’s not necessary but it gives me peace of mind.
    Those left standing
    Will make millions
    Writing books on ways
    It should have been
    -Incubus "Warning"

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    • #3
      I've been flat towing for years and except for one serious brain fart on my part I have had no problems at all. Make sure your alignment is good (Caster and toe) and put an auto trans in neutral,t case can stay in 2hi. manual in gear, t case in neutral. Leave the key in the ignition (you can't remove it if the tranny is in anything other than park) and that also keeps the steering from locking. The steering wheel needs to turn, and will when you make tight turns. That's normal. You can back up a tow rig but it takes some practice. Try to get the tow bar to be as level as possible. Some downhill toward the hitch is ok but too much will make the Jeep squirrelly. Get some magnetic tow lights from Pep Boys and your almost ready. Make SURE the tow vehicles brakes are in perfect condition. Otherwise put a remote bake system on the Jeep. And check your mirrors often. My jeep tows so well behind my F250 that I didn't notice I had a flat until it was totally destroyed and throwing pieces of rubber at me.
      Last edited by RAT; 07-13-10, 01:31 PM.
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      • #4
        Thanks for the feedback.... I'll only be towing about 30 miles so with this new info I should be good to go!

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        • #5
          Here's my CJ-7 hooked up to my truck. Kurt mentioned that the tow bar should be level. Mine is ever so slighly up hill towards the truck. Defeniately better than angling down.

          Notice the drop hitch is flipped over to get the proper angle or lack thereof.

          I purchased my mag-tow lighs from Harbor Frieght on sale for $9.95 + ca tax. Watch for them on sale.

          SBCO Fire Dept. CERT volunteer
          MJR moderator
          MJR Adopt-a-Trail Crew member
          Jeep Patrol Leader
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          • #6
            Mine is no where being that close to level, guess I'll have to work that out. Nice rigs by the way

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            • #7
              One more thing.. do you have electric brakes? I heard in California anything weighing over 4500lbs needs to have them in place.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jeeper Creeper View Post
                Mine is no where being that close to level, guess I'll have to work that out. Nice rigs by the way
                Yes - It has to be level!! Thanks for the complement, but it's the Po'boy CJ. Nothing special on it (But I love it all the same!)
                SBCO Fire Dept. CERT volunteer
                MJR moderator
                MJR Adopt-a-Trail Crew member
                Jeep Patrol Leader
                Reforestation Supervisor
                Licensed Ham - n6ujm
                Eagle Scout

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                • #9
                  My towbar says it should slightly elevated on the tow vehilce side. Between 1-4 inches higher at the hitch.
                  Those left standing
                  Will make millions
                  Writing books on ways
                  It should have been
                  -Incubus "Warning"

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                  • #10
                    You do not need electric brakes when towing a vehicle. That only applies to a trailer and it is anything over 1500lbs.
                    1994 Toyota, dual cases, 5.29 axles with ARB's

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                    • #11
                      Only want to add that it's a GOOD IDEA to pull your rear drive shaft to save your t/case.
                      I have towed my Jeep all over the USA and the 5 minutes it takes to do this WILL save your $$$$$ T/case.
                      AND don't forget to unlock your steering wheel too.
                      Respectfully,
                      LG
                      Hav'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men....

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                      • #12
                        Ok stupid question: Why is it a good idea to disconnect the drive shaft if I'm putting t-case and trans in correct gears for towing....is there a possibility of a bump on the highway might cause the t-case to slip in gear? :confused2

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                        • #13
                          It's a well known issue with the Dana 300 T/case rear output shaft bearing staying lubed.
                          The tranny in gear and T/case in net. was a deal that AMC came up with and it was for only a 100 miles or so.
                          I just returned from a seven state trip and towed my Jeep behind my RV and the 5 minutes it takes to pull the D/shaft is NO big deal.
                          Just "un-hook" the shaft a the rear diff. Then wrap the U-joint caps with tape(so you don't lose the caps)and hang the shaft with a chain so it out of the diffs way and your GTG.
                          IIRC, I think you said you were only towing it about 30 or so miles. IF that IS the case then do the tranny in gear/T-case net. thing and you'll be OK
                          DON'T forget to un-lock the steering is all.
                          Cheers,
                          LG
                          Hav'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men....

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Jeeper Creeper View Post
                            Ok stupid question: Why is it a good idea to disconnect the drive shaft if I'm putting t-case and trans in correct gears for towing....is there a possibility of a bump on the highway might cause the t-case to slip in gear? :confused2
                            Creeper... As a fellow CJ7 owner... Let me add one more opinion. And we all know about opinions... :tongue:

                            I had always been told that we should put the t-case in neutral and the auto trans in neutral... I was later told that we should have the t-case in neutral and auto trans in park or drive... I have done it both of these ways...

                            I just returned from a trip of more than 1400 miles... flat towed the CJ7 the whole way with the t-case in neutral and auto trans in park.
                            Regards,
                            Randy

                            "An army of asses led by a lion is better than an army of lions led by an ass" George Washington

                            www.youtube.com/user/MyBrokenJeep

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                            • #15
                              Just an FYI - The CJ factory and owner's manual states that to tow:
                              1. T-Case in neutral
                              2. Gearshift in Park or in Gear ( to keep transmission from spinning/freewheeling)
                              3. Front hubs locked (required to drive pump that lubes the T-Case)


                              If you don't lock the front hubs you don't get proper lubrication.
                              -- Warren
                              1999 SE

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