To Steel or not to Steel (Aluminum?)

[RubiKat]

I want to add rock sliders and full corners to my LJ. I am looking at Genright rock sliders (steel) and Savvy aluminum plate with steel rock slider and the corners in Steel or Aluminum. Beside weight I am not sure of the differences. I am hearing the the aluminum gouges easier and may not hold up as well?. True? thoughts?

HELP! I want protection before Calico on the 22nd!

I can say the Savvy aluminum looks SWEET on Nailers orange Jeep...

[Ol Man]

Both companies make them in Aluminum and either would be a good choice. Nothing wrong with steel, just a bit heavier. As far as damage, the Aluminum both use is pretty stong and can take quite a hit. Depending on how hard you nail any of them, you can dent them; some hits you will just get out the spray can.

[inVERt'D]

Aluminum is much softer than even mild steel, so yeah, it gouges that much easier. Since it gouges easier, it won't slip over rocks quite as well. I would imagine this is why Savvy has utilizes a steel rock slider--they are trying to get the best of both worlds. Personally, I'd definitely go with aluminum on the sides and corners, and if I used steel anywhere it would be on the sliders.

The only issue with having a steel/aluminum item is corrosion caused by elecrolysis due to disimilar metals being in contact. The Savvy guys seem pretty smart tho, and I'm sure they've "insulated" the steel and aluminum well. Right, Savvy?

[aw12345]

The 6160T6 corners are pretty tough, weigh far less than the steel ones and do not bend as easy. One of the reasons they use this aluminum is that it doesn't really bend it gets pushed in at the worst and then springs back. Genright and Savvy both make nice corners, but Savvy has the better price

[inVERt'D]

Hey Art, are those Savvys 3/16" or 1/4"? I'd prefer 1/4" in Al.

BTW, I figured out how to make those radiused corners

[aw12345]

Savy uses 3/16. I think my Gen Rights are 1/4" and they came down in price they are 399 now.
The material alone when I priced it was close to 300 bucks for 1/4 thick 6160 T6

[RubiKat]

From GenRight Web...

Made of lightweight 3/16" thick 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy plate.

[inVERt'D]

See Art, good thing you bought those before they went down in price!

[Lumpy Grits]

Steel will always take more and harder "hits" than beer can metal will(alum.).
Go with steel.
Cry one time and do it right.......
Respectfully,
LG

[JeepGal]

I have the Savvy gas tank skid. As far as softness, I can definitely say it's not what you (and others) may think. I ran it at Rubicon and dragged it over many rocks, the scrapes and scratches are really nothing more than you'd get in steel. In fact, because it sits higher than most, you may hit it less.

I spent two days as a passenger in Eriks Jeep at JV during the week of Thanksgiving. The weight savings that Erik has achieved using aluminum has had a huge impact on how his Jeep goes over obstacles (and whoops!) It just glides. It really does make a big difference. In fact, all the Savvy armored Jeeps seemed to slide over the nasty rocks in JV with grace and ease.

On Savvy's Rockers, Im pretty sure they used steel because they cant get that tight a radius with aluminum. It has nothing to do with its durability.

Tam

[inVERt'D]

As far as a gas tank skid, the 6061 T6 should deflect a lot more than mild steel, so that should help to make up for its softness with regard to rock catching and gouging it. Aluminum rockers, on the other hand, wouldn't deflect as much, (and you wouldn't want them to) because of the corner built into them, so they'd probably gouge a lot more.

6061 T6 is quite strong and much more flexible than mild steel. So although it would tend to return to its shape after being hit by a rock, the sheet steel underneath might not. Still, I'd much rather have aluminum side/ corner armor than steel, because I think the combination of lightness and strength is well worth it. Al Rocker guards on the other hand, would have to be much thicker than 1/4" before I'd want to replace my steel ones with them.

[Jerry Bransford]

There's some bad information above on aluminum being softer. While SOME types of aluminum are softer, the 6061 T-6 aluminum used on Savvy's products is not... it's extremely hard and strong. I've managed to scratch my Savvy aluminum gas tank skidplate but even after some MAJOR hits and scrapes, it's totally gouge-free. This type of aluminum is far tougher than some think it is.

So far as Savvy's rocker guards go, which I'm running as well, the only part that is 6061 T-6 aluminum is the part that is up against the tub. The actual slider that protects the rocker against rocks is made from steel, your choice of stainless steel or carbon steel, and it's bolted to the aluminum that bolts to the tub. So #1, the steel slider itself is replaceable should it ever get that badly damaged. But #2, if you can damage the steel slider that much that Blaine & Gerald at Savvy designed, the odds are that the rest of the Jeep was totalled in the process.

[inVERt'D]

What's bad information? No one said the aluminum was too soft, just that it's softer than mild steel. 6061 T6 should be around B60 on the Rockwell scale whereas mild steel around B70. Support your contention.

[Lumpy Grits]

Jerry, do you really believe that alum will hold up to more abuse/hits/rocks than mild steel will gauge for gauge?
That's just not going to happen.....
And yes, I have machined tons of alum. and steel, in my life, along with 17-4 s/steel and AL-6 Ti.
Respectfully,
LG

[mrblaine]

The only issue with having a steel/aluminum item is corrosion caused by elecrolysis due to disimilar metals being in contact. The Savvy guys seem pretty smart tho, and I'm sure they've "insulated" the steel and aluminum well. Right, Savvy?

Why yes, we've taken exactly the same precautions Chrysler did when they bolted the engine together under the hood of your rig.

Take a peek sometime. You have brass threaded into aluminum bolted to a cast iron head with steel bolts right next to a copper wound iron armature in an aluminum housing bolted to a steel and aluminum bracket with steel bolts on the other side of the iron block. Not to mention that hundreds of thousands of us have no issue not insulating our alloy rims from steel Wheel Mounting Surfaces.

In other words, it's just not an issue. Your engine will fall apart from electrolysis or any galvanic reaction long before you see any issues bolting on aluminum and steel armor.