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  • towing

    87 yj 5 speed, i've heard transfer and tranny in neutral and i've heard transfer in neutral and tranny in high gear, what's right ?
    But can we SURVIVE 2 more years?

  • #2
    I flat tow my CJ with the trans and transfer in "N",and disconnect my battery cause the key has to be in on to steer.
    Dennis
    Dennis and Tammy
    Its as much fun getting dirty as it is being dirty in a Jeep!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by 4rheel View Post
      87 yj 5 speed, i've heard transfer and tranny in neutral and i've heard transfer in neutral and tranny in high gear, what's right ?
      For your particular transmission and 231 transfer case, the transmission must be in gear and the transfer case must be in neutral. Yes, the transmission must be IN gear for flat towing. That prevents the transmission from turning when it is not being properly lubed. Ignition unlocked so the steering can follow the tow vehicle. No rumor.
      The Geezer Jeep: http://www.greentractortalk.com/jerryb/index.htm

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      • #4
        As Jerry stated, the transfer case needs to be in neutral and your transmission in gear. In gear is the only way the tranny oil will keep everything lubed. I prefer 4th gear. The reason is that just in case your transfer case slip into 4hi or low, at freeway speeds, you do not want everything to engage in a lower gear. The best to flat tow is to just disconnect your driveshafts at both ends and tie them up out of the way.

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        • #5
          ....and for an automatic transmission, Jeep wants the transmission in Park, with the transfer case in neutral.
          Rich

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          • #6
            I'm pretty sure the '87 YJ had an NP207, not a '231. I don't know if the '207 has an oil pump like the 231, which is the only reason you can safely flat tow a TJ or YJ.

            Also, the dana 300 in a CJ does NOT have an oil pump attached to the output shaft, and will eventually burn up the rear output bearing if flat-towed for very long. Flat towing your CJ is a time-bomb waiting to go off. You should remove the rear driveshaft instead. That's how I had to tow my CJ.
            '96 XJ, HP D30 front, XJ D44 rear, Lockright/E-Locker, 4.56's, Cobra CB, 33" Pro Comp xTreme MT's, SYE, Smittybilt XRC10 winch with Synth Rope, mutt lift.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by peteyg View Post
              Also, the dana 300 in a CJ does NOT have an oil pump attached to the output shaft, and will eventually burn up the rear output bearing if flat-towed for very long. Flat towing your CJ is a time-bomb waiting to go off. You should remove the rear driveshaft instead. That's how I had to tow my CJ.
              Never had a problem there but that don't mean I'll take that chance.Thanks for the heads up.
              Dennis and Tammy
              Its as much fun getting dirty as it is being dirty in a Jeep!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by peteyg View Post
                I'm pretty sure the '87 YJ had an NP207, not a '231.
                Whoops you are right, it was '88 when the YJ got the 231. Strange year that '87, that was the only year the YJ had the NP207. I dunno what requirements the NP207 has where towing is concerned.
                The Geezer Jeep: http://www.greentractortalk.com/jerryb/index.htm

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