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  • ignition problems

    so this happened last night:
    http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=12590


    now I cant get the damn new key and ignition to work. It plugs in just fine but I get nothing when I try and start it! IS there something I need to do before putting the new ignition tube in? I pulled the old one bc it was all torn up from the bastard that tried to steal it.

    any ideas would be great thanks!




    had to miss a wheeling trip tonight too! and I planned it.... this sucks
    [COLOR="Sienna"]97 TJ, 4.0 5spd, 3.5" Rock Krawler 5 inch stretch long arm, 30/44 locked with 48s, 35 inch MTRs, Warn 9k rock track 4:1, Vanco Big Brake Kit![/COLOR]

  • #2
    Originally posted by miguelitojeep97 View Post
    so this happened last night:
    http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=12590


    now I cant get the damn new key and ignition to work. It plugs in just fine but I get nothing when I try and start it! IS there something I need to do before putting the new ignition tube in? I pulled the old one bc it was all torn up from the bastard that tried to steal it.

    any ideas would be great thanks!




    had to miss a wheeling trip tonight too! and I planned it.... this sucks
    Not sure what year this started but the ignition key may be matched to the igniton module. If so, you have to have Chrysler (or some good freind that knows how to do it) re-key the igniton and module. Is your old ignition key the kind with a big plastic end on it with the Chrysler emblem in it? If so, BOHICA baby...
    [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
    [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
    http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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    • #3
      do you know how exactly it is matched?
      cuz it fit in just fine, the part is very very close to being exact.
      [COLOR="Sienna"]97 TJ, 4.0 5spd, 3.5" Rock Krawler 5 inch stretch long arm, 30/44 locked with 48s, 35 inch MTRs, Warn 9k rock track 4:1, Vanco Big Brake Kit![/COLOR]

      Comment


      • #4
        What Kurt is talking about is that the key has a chip in it that has to match with an imobilizer or sentry module. If I am not mistaken those sentry keys have a grey plastic head on them instead of the regular black plastic head

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        • #5
          in your profile it says you have a 97. my 97 did not have one of them immobilizers, but my 2000 does. im not sure when they came out with this option but im pretty sure yours doesnt. dont quote me on that, just relaying my personal experiance.

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          • #6
            yea mine is a 97 and doesnt have grey plastic end, its black.

            Really frustrated now cuz I dont know what to do to get my ignition to work. I dont want to get it towed somewhere. And I kinda am suppose to go to work tonight.

            anyone else have any ideas?
            [COLOR="Sienna"]97 TJ, 4.0 5spd, 3.5" Rock Krawler 5 inch stretch long arm, 30/44 locked with 48s, 35 inch MTRs, Warn 9k rock track 4:1, Vanco Big Brake Kit![/COLOR]

            Comment


            • #7
              Well on the back side of the ignition switch ( the electrical part) probe the wires with a test light
              are any hot? you should have battery hot to the switch
              when you turn the key do any other wires get power?
              Does any wire get power in the start position? If no power you might have fried a fusible link or a fuse
              In that case start checking around in the power distribution centre or check the wires on the starter

              Comment


              • #8
                as sad as this sounds, i dont have a meter gauge. im going to try and check my haynes manual and see if I can find anything.

                I dont see how any wires would have gotten shorted out
                [COLOR="Sienna"]97 TJ, 4.0 5spd, 3.5" Rock Krawler 5 inch stretch long arm, 30/44 locked with 48s, 35 inch MTRs, Warn 9k rock track 4:1, Vanco Big Brake Kit![/COLOR]

                Comment


                • #9
                  You said the thief had it cranking/running right?
                  So anything after that caused your grief. Did you replace the whole ignition switch or just the lock cylinder?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    replaced just the lock cylinder.

                    weird thing- I can take the keys out while there is power to the dash.
                    [COLOR="Sienna"]97 TJ, 4.0 5spd, 3.5" Rock Krawler 5 inch stretch long arm, 30/44 locked with 48s, 35 inch MTRs, Warn 9k rock track 4:1, Vanco Big Brake Kit![/COLOR]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      You know that the electrical part of the switch has to be in a specific position for the cylinder to go in and mate correctly sounds to me that's the part that went wrong. I am pretty sure that if you take the cylinder back out and stick a screw driver in there it will start right up

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                      • #12
                        This should give you the skinny


                        IGNITION SWITCH INSTALLATION
                        (1) Before installing ignition switch, rotate the slot
                        in the switch to the ON position (Fig. 48).
                        (2) Position switch to column and install tamper
                        proof screw. Tighten screw to 3 N·m (26 in. lbs.).
                        (3) Connect two electrical connectors to rear of
                        ignition switch. Make sure that locking tabs are fully
                        seated into wiring connectors.
                        (4) Install steering column lower cover.

                        KEY CYLINDER INSTALLATION
                        (1) If equipped with an automatic transmission,
                        place shifter in PARK position.
                        (2) Position key cylinder into steering column as it
                        would normally be in the ON position.
                        (3) Press key cylinder into column until it snaps
                        into position.

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                        • #13
                          so even if the cylinder goes in and snaps like it should, it still might not be set in the right position? Am I understanding you correctly? BC im almost positive there is only ONE way to put the cylinder in. I hope its something as simple as this.

                          I need to drive to school on monday.

                          I would hate to get it towed somewhere. And its kinda hard to explain this to a mechanic over the phone. Well keep those ideas coming, I really do appreciate your help! I can try to mess around with it tmr, wait it already is tmr. (just getting off work)
                          [COLOR="Sienna"]97 TJ, 4.0 5spd, 3.5" Rock Krawler 5 inch stretch long arm, 30/44 locked with 48s, 35 inch MTRs, Warn 9k rock track 4:1, Vanco Big Brake Kit![/COLOR]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yup its possible, they could have damaged the part under the lock cylinder especially since you said the ignition is staying on. You might have to replace the electrical part also. If possible take the cylinder back out and check over the electrical part where it mates with the cylinder. Also once its out try to see if it starts with a screwdriver or anything that will turn the electrical part

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                            • #15
                              its hard to turn the electrical part inside where the cylinder should be. I dont want to mess anything else up. There is only one way the cylinder goes in. This is frustrating bc its hard to explain exactly is going on. This should be sooo simple and Im sure it is. Im just lost
                              [COLOR="Sienna"]97 TJ, 4.0 5spd, 3.5" Rock Krawler 5 inch stretch long arm, 30/44 locked with 48s, 35 inch MTRs, Warn 9k rock track 4:1, Vanco Big Brake Kit![/COLOR]

                              Comment

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