Class M Corp Clutch Linkage

[Kman]

I just received my Class M Corp clutch linkage and it is NOT a "Bolt on" procedure as stated in the catalog. I bought the kit for use with a body lift,my CJ5 has a 2" body lift. The linkage hits the seam in the body panels on the firewall. It looks like I would have to cut the tub for it to work...Anyone used this linkage with a body lift? Did you have to cut your tub? Nothing in the directions for it mention cutting the tub. The body lift kit instructions didn't mention cutting the tub either. I was running the stock linkage extended 2" as described in the body lift instuctions but I had to adjust the rest of the linkage to far so I bought this Class M Corp linkage kit. First thing I've bought for it in the last 5 years that I haven't been happy with.

[SAR Jeeper]

I'm not sure about the Class M Corp Clutch linkage, but I've been looking for alternatives for my CJ7.

I've dropped the linkage rod several times, so I made a heim joint, so it won't get too tweaked. Now, I'm getting the entire bell crank popping off.

I'm going hydraulic. I'm unsure on yours, but if you search some forums that are CJ specific, or have CJ specific area's, you'll find lots of info.

I know for mine, I need a slave from a 4 banger, gm motor. Most places stock these. I can use any of the masters. I'll have to mod my clutch pedal, but that involves drilling a 1/2" hole, placing a rod in there, then welding it. Not too mcuh work.

I'd provide you with some links, but I'm not on my computer.

Good luck

[Kman]

I really don't like the idea of switching to hydraulic but I do have a set of YJ pedals along with the master cylinder. It doesn't look to hard to fab a bracket on the 258 bellhosing to adapt to a slave cylinder from either a 4cyl CJ or say a Chevy truck. The slaves seam cheap through NAPA at around $40.00.

[Kman]

Heres what I ended up doing. I reinstalled the factory clutch rod(which I had extended 2" when I installed the body lift) which goes from the pedal to the bellcrank. I had a pretty stout tie rod off from a riding lawn mower that had a ball and stud swivel on one end(3/8 fine thread). With the pedal where I wanted it I got under neath and slide the tie rod swivel into the bell crank and marked it slightly long with a pencil. Cut it at the mark with the chop saw.I got back under the Jeep and checked fit and cut the rod shorter in 1/8" increments until it fit. At this point it was approximatley 1" longer than the factory piece fully adjusted out. Seems to be working fine at the moment.