Towing question

[Jr. Bonner]

I read in a few past threads that to flat tow a 90 yj to put the transfer case in neutral and the tranny in gear. The guy at Brothers 4x4 said to put both in neutral.Why would the tranny be in gear? Any suggestions?? Input?Thanks.

[FishPOET]

Does it have an automatic or a manual transmission?

[RAT]

Both tranny and transfer case should be in neutral. If you try and tow with the transmission in gear you won't get far.

[SAR Jeeper]

Both tranny and transfer case should be in neutral. If you try and tow with the transmission in gear you won't get far.

I'm unsure with an auto, but if I put my manual in gear, transfer in neutral, it can be towed.

Haynes Manual for my CJ states with a Manual Transmission "Shift the transmission and transfer case into Neutral on models built through 1979. On 1980 and later models, the transmission should be placed in gear and the transfer case in Neutral. If equipped with locking hubs, they should be in the free-wheeling position on models built through 1976 and locked (to ensure axle lubrication on 1977 and later models. On 1980 and later models, it will be necessary to stop every 200 miles, start the engine and run it for one minute with the transmission in gear and the transfer case in Neutral to circulate the transfer case oil."

[Jason]

Both tranny and transfer case should be in neutral. If you try and tow with the transmission in gear you won't get far.

Once you put the transfer case in neutral, the drive train is now separate from the engine. The tranny will still spin unless you've disconnected both drive shafts. The reason you want the tranny in gear there in no way for the oil to lubricate the moving items. Something about the YJ AX-5 oil slinger not working with the absence of vacuum. I've flat towed the YJ up and back from the Rubicon and once before just back, (thanks Rat) and the tranny was in gear and the transfer case in neutral.
I suspect the prudent thing to do would to just disconnect the shafts and put the transfer case in neutral and all would be good.
Of course if you have an auto, disregard what I just said.

[ECV Jeep]

Boy oh boy, have I had some troubles in the flat towing arena. Without gowing into the gory details, I will say that if you plan to tow the Jeep any distance I would STRONGLY recommend that you disconect the rear drive shaft. I typically disconnect mine at the pinion at the rear and run some tape over the u-joint to keep the exposed caps in place. Then I bungy/tie the drive shaft up to the body/frame in a place where it will not contact the pinion.

For shorter distances (less than 50 miles), or if you decide the above is too much work (15 minutes to disconnect, 15 to reconnect) then I would put the transfer case in nuetral and the transmission in 2nd or 3rd gear (consult a manual to be certain). This does help keep the tranny lube moving around the gears. Stopping more frequently than the 200 miles the manual suggests is a good idea. Stop, start engine and run tranny in nuetral transfer case in gear for several minute to lube transfer case.

Removing the drive shaft is the best option short of a trailer. Replacing transfer cases and drive line items is quite expensive. If something seizes up at 55 MPH you can break a host of items (tranny, t-case, u joints, axles, ring & pion, lockers, you name it).

[igofshn]

Why remove the driveshaft???? I flat towed my TJ with the tcase in neutral and the tranny in park, never a problem. Now I tow my Samurai witht the case in neutral and the tranny in 2nd. No troubles. There is no need to pull the DS.

[FishPOET]

Check your owners manual.

Not all transfer cases have a true neutral.

Automatic transmissions should be flat towed in park or you take a chance of the transmission turning without lubrication.

Lots of good flat towing info here:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...s/forum/31.cfm

[ECV Jeep]

Why remove the driveshaft???? I flat towed my TJ with the tcase in neutral and the tranny in park, never a problem. Now I tow my Samurai witht the case in neutral and the tranny in 2nd. No troubles. There is no need to pull the DS.

I know several people who have had your results. Personally, mine have been far worse. I guess I err on the side of being safe as opposed to sorry again.

[ECV Jeep]

Another important point is that I believe some transfer cases flat tow better than others. I had my problems with a dana 300, which can oil starve when towed. I do not have experience with the AX-15 which is likely in the YJ in question, or the newer TJ cases.

[Jerry Bransford]

I read in a few past threads that to flat tow a 90 yj to put the transfer case in neutral and the tranny in gear. The guy at Brothers 4x4 said to put both in neutral.Why would the tranny be in gear? Any suggestions?? Input?Thanks.

Definitely keep the tranny in gear or Park, and shift the t-case into Neutral for any flat towing. Keeping the transmission in gear/Park keeps it from spinning without lubrication. Shifting the t-case into neutral does the same thing, it isolates the transmission from the rear axle.

The transmission in Park or in gear and t-case in Neutral is 100% accurate for flat-towing any Jeep that has the 231 transfer case.

[Jr. Bonner]

Definitely keep the tranny in gear or Park, and shift the t-case into Neutral for any flat towing. Keeping the transmission in gear/Park keeps it from spinning without lubrication. Shifting the t-case into neutral does the same thing, it isolates the transmission from the rear axle.

The transmission in Park or in gear and t-case in Neutral is 100% accurate for flat-towing any Jeep that has the 231 transfer case.

Well I guess I will go that route. Its kinda scary, there are alot of different opinions on the net about something that should really be cut and dried. I read about a guy that when he realized what happend he had a smoldering nub where his jeep used to be and almost killed someone.But thanks for the opinions regardless...

[Jerry Bransford]

Just read your or someone else's owners manual, the procedure for flat towing I described is spelled out in black & white.

[Jason]

After flat towing for just over a year now, (towing newbie) I must say it is the scariest thing I have done to get to the trail head. Sometimes I just can't get the feeling I forgot to do something. In gear, in neutral, steering wheel unlocked, safety chains. The list goes on. I always stop at my son's school on the way out just to check things again. Once, twice, three times more. I wish I had the room for a trailer.

[peteyg]

I flat towed for years and years with no problems. Jerry is 100% correct, with regards to YJs and TJs with the NP231 t-case.

Here's the deal:

The NP231 Transfer case has an oil pump that is attached to the output shaft of the T-case, so when the rear driveshaft is turning, the pump is working and the t-case bearings get oiled.

In all cases, the transmission oil pump is turnd by the ENGINE input shaft, not the tranny, so when the engine isn't running, the output bearing of the transmission gets oil starved and seizes. That is why you put the tranny in gear, to prevent parasitic turning of the transmission output shaft.

Another thing to consider is that you MUST keep the steering wheel unlocked. I was once driving down the road and saw a guy towing a Rubicon, and it was dragging the front wheels, because they were slightly turned and the wheel was locked. I turned around and flagged the guy down. The right front tire was down to the cords and was about to blow.

It's also important to make sure your tire pressures are even.

Flat towing is a cost-effective alternative to buying, storing and maintaining a trailer. But remember, in order to effectively flat-tow, the Jeep must always be in streetable condition. If you can't drive it safely, you probably shouldn't flat-tow it, either. Exceptions include things like blown engines and broken driveshafts.