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Where to buy taps?

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  • Where to buy taps?

    Decided I want to get my own 7/8 - 18 RH & LH taps. My google efforts are not brings me much luck.

    Where is a good place to get these?
    Michael

    [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

  • #2
    I usually get mine from KAR products. Unfortunately, they don't sell to the public. You can try the normal industrial supply houses (grainger, McMaster-Carr, etc).
    olllllllo <--- If you can read that, roll me over!

    Price is soon forgotton, quality is not.

    KG6OWO

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    • #3
      My local Ace hardware has a fairly wide assortment of taps. Or you can try mcmaster.com, they'll have one.
      [COLOR=blue]Chris[/COLOR]
      SAVE JOHNSON VALLEY!!! - CLICK HERE
      Ya Savvy?

      Motech Performance

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      • #4
        Thanks. My local hardware stores sucks so I will try mcmaster.
        Michael

        [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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        • #5
          Lawson products. They usually have good quality stuff. Huge selectionl. Check thier website.
          I have a Jeep

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          • #6
            good luck with those taps. they are hard to find, though available on ebay, but get ready to open your wallet wide. especially for the l/h tap.
            they are 80 bucks + each.
            mcmaster carr has them.
            http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=58227
            this might be helpful too
            >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
            ERIK


            95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!

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            • #7
              mcmaster carr
              part numbers:
              2584A917= LH $55~
              2595A423= RH $90~
              CALL RICK.
              >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
              ERIK


              95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by NAILER341
                but get ready to open your wallet wide. especially for the l/h tap.
                You can say that again!

                Originally posted by NAILER341
                CALL RICK
                What should I call him? Seriously, I will.
                Michael

                [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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                • #9
                  why not use the chrome moly inserts rather than tapping the tube?
                  it works just the same, and costs quite a bit less, especially by the time you pay someone to machine out the inside of the tubing to receive the tap.



                  http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=98

                  you can also check with matt pascoe when he is availabele. i think he has sourced them for like 6 bucks each
                  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
                  ERIK


                  95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by NAILER341
                    why not use the chrome moly inserts rather than tapping the tube?
                    Because that would be too easy!

                    I was planning on using 1.25 x .25 DOM so did not think tube adapters would work. But as Dukes69 just pointed out to me, use 1.25 x .120 DOM sleeved with 1 x .120 DOM and tube adapters will work.
                    Last edited by nagal; 12-09-05, 04:04 PM.
                    Michael

                    [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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                    • #11
                      i just went through this with my steering, and used 1-3/8" .188 chrome moly tubing, and sleeved the inside with 1" tube. it is rock solid, and easily accepts the inserts.
                      the tubing is available at aircraft spruce
                      http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/me/steel.html

                      which rod ends will you be using?
                      i have some that may work for you...
                      i cant use a couple of them any more, and these are new "spares".
                      >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
                      ERIK


                      95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!

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                      • #12
                        For the tie rod, I have some MOOG ends can not remember the part numbers off hand. For the drag link I will use ES2027L, ES2234R. This is not much of a departure from my current setup, I just want to get rid of the ES2233L I am using on the tie rod now.

                        I originally tried to do a "hi-steer" inverted-tee (ES2027L, ES2233L, ES2234R) with the WJ import knuckle. Did not work so I changed it to a cross-over. Now I want to finalize it but with the MOOG ends I will at least need to make a new tie-rod. The drag link I have now should be fine but might make a new one for the hell of it.

                        Using 1.5 DOM with the MOOG tre, it is going to be very tight on the steering knuckle because I have the tie-rod flipped. So I am thinking the 1.25 DOM will help things fit a little better.

                        Of course this all has to wait until I get another WJ knuckle. Using the MOOG ends vs the ES stuff, I will need to ream the mounts out a little. If it turns out this will not work because it is still too tight then I can just keep my steering setup as is.
                        Last edited by nagal; 12-11-05, 08:29 AM.
                        Michael

                        [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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                        • #13
                          ??

                          You can check with Gemini Machine in Yucca Valley....He knows hi stuff and does all kinds of custom machining and fabrication........B.J.

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                          • #14
                            go to a supply shop for machineing
                            you will find them there, they will be pricey
                            censored for having an opinion

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by bjnrae
                              You can check with Gemini Machine in Yucca Valley....He knows hi stuff and does all kinds of custom machining and fabrication........B.J.
                              I have been there before and they are good only problem is the hours, hard for me to get there when they are open.
                              Michael

                              [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

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