Mr. Green's Surgery

[dirtman13]

Sawzall and 1" body lift. You should be able to modify the trans tunnel enough to get the front yoke to clear

Be careful with your drive shaft angles doing this.

Also I just noticed that your front axle it a newer one. That means your axle has the shorter short tube. The 78-79 has the longer short tube. Be sure to check the clearance between the frame and the front drive shaft. I had to cut my 89 60 passenger (long) side tube to shift the pumpkin away from the frame. Still ended up having to notch the frame a little.

Found this picture that shows the 2 different ones. Note the length of the short tube on each.

[Mike]

Be careful with your drive shaft angles doing this.

Also I just noticed that your front axle it a newer one. That means your axle has the shorter short tube. The 78-79 has the longer short tube. Be sure to check the clearance between the frame and the front drive shaft. I had to cut my 89 60 passenger (long) side tube to shift the pumpkin away from the frame. Still ended up having to notch the frame a little.

Found this picture that shows the 2 different ones. Note the length of the short tube on each.

Good point.
I have been stripping the old suspension out while I have been debating the tummy tuck issue.
It would probably be best to not cut anything until I get all the old stuff out. Then checking those driveshaft angles will be a good bit easier.

I am also considering making the tummy tuck about 1.5 inches below the frame instead of flat, but that is not my first preference. I think Art may be right about being able to modify the pan enough to make it work. I just may not be able to use my original driver's seat any more. I really was hoping to keep the seats.

[aw12345]

You can keep the seats and the sliders, just the rest of the seatbase has to go. I would strip every thing from underneath set the axles just under about where you want them then you can do some measuring and eyevballing. You loose the cv on the front driveshaft will help with clearance too

[aw12345]

Since he will have selectable hubs and not slugs the only thing to worry about is driveshaft bind at full droop and full flex.
I run no cv in front and the driveline angles aren't correct but it does fine till about 50mph in four hi in the desert without vibration.
Also especially with the 4 speed case it will be quite a long driveshaft which makes for a driveshaft angle that's close to flat.
Just roughly put things where they need to go, will give ya a better idea what needs doing, cutting and moving. Also Chuck, TJ frames are much wider than a CJ so the frame hitting the shaft shouldn't be an issue. As far as I know for driveshaft clearance the later axles are preferred, they clear the 4.0 exhaust better

[Mike]

Since he will have selectable hubs and not slugs the only thing to worry about is driveshaft bind at full droop and full flex.
I run no cv in front and the driveline angles aren't correct but it does fine till about 50mph in four hi in the desert without vibration.
Also especially with the 4 speed case it will be quite a long driveshaft which makes for a driveshaft angle that's close to flat.
Just roughly put things where they need to go, will give ya a better idea what needs doing, cutting and moving. Also Chuck, TJ frames are much wider than a CJ so the frame hitting the shaft shouldn't be an issue. As far as I know for driveshaft clearance the later axles are preferred, they clear the 4.0 exhaust better

Thanks Art.

Today I continued to strip things that need to go off the Jeep. The rear control arms, springs, ARB line, Brake Line, E-Brake, and rear tires and axle have been removed.

I am running out of room to store things, so I guess that I need to start putting the old parts up for sale. Hmmm, almost to the Point of No Return, huh?

[jonah]

Mike, I am jealous! Can't wait to see it come together. I will say that once you cut the floor it makes fitting everything a lot easier. my trans tunnel ended up about 5 inches taller than original and that is what it took to get everything up to the frame rails. I am using stock TJ seat sliders (I originally had TJ seats too) but I had to build mounts off the roll cage. If you didn't want to cut up the floor, I think I would drop the drivetrain before lifting the body more, you can still build it flat it will just be a bit lower.

[HookandLadder]

Can I buy the front track bar and rear upper arm. I feel so attached to them from and the trail repairs I helped with on them!

[Mike]

Can I buy the front track bar and rear upper arm. I feel so attached to them from and the trail repairs I helped with on them!

Well, I'm sort of attached to them, but for you I will make an exception!

[dr.dirty]

Is it done yet?

[Mike]

Is it done yet?

Ha! You funny.

I have the gas tank out and the rear axle cleaned up a little so that I can sell it. I'll put the stuff on MJR of course, but what other places are good for selling this kind of stuff? Pirate?

[aw12345]

Pirate. craigslist. jeepforum

[dr.dirty]

Ha! You funny.

I have the gas tank out and the rear axle cleaned up a little so that I can sell it. I'll put the stuff on MJR of course, but what other places are good for selling this kind of stuff? Pirate?

I sold all the stuff out of the yj in a few days on craigslist.

[Tumbleweed13]

Can you clock the T/C any, to make it sit flatter?

[vwtipeii]

what tire size ya running with 5.38's?

[Mike]

Can you clock the T/C any, to make it sit flatter?

Yes, but I haven't experimented with it yet. I am pretty close to flat now. I can go one more set of bolt holes.

what tire size ya running with 5.38's?

40x13.5x17 Maxxis Trepadors. They are sitting in the garage waiting patiently for their turn.