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**dirtman13** · 09-28-10, 12:56 PM

I toyed with the idea of going RH RH on mine but did not. I stuck with RH LH for easy adjustment. I have not had any issues yet with them self adjusting and I have ridden some rocks pretty hard on my front lowers. I figured if they did ever come loose I would just throw a small tack weld on it.

I�m running 9/16 all around so far no issues. I really think you will be fine unless you�re going to enter KOH.

Good choice on the Nylatron. The injected molded suck.

Did you get your rod ends from Ballistic? If you did you may want to grind off about 1/8 in of the end (tube insert end). Especially the left threaded ones. The joint is almost impossible to tighten once you get to the end.

**inVERt'D** · 09-28-10, 02:02 PM

dirtman13, thanks for the feedback.

No plans for KOH right now...but that would be a blast in the right rig! I tend to think 9/16" should be fine, but it's always tempting to go for more beef when the cost is basically the same. I can get a little aggressive at times, but mostly I'm very conscious of not breaking axles and u-joints.

Since the additional $6.00 for the "solid" liners also gets the lifetime warranty, I was leaning heavily in that direction anyway. Your comments about the injection molded liners wearing out so quickly helped push me the rest of the way. I'm tired of replacing poly bushings as it is.

Edit: I think I initially misread the intent of your question, hence the history below. Yeah, except for 2 Johnny Joints w/ hardware I got from rat patrol, I'm getting everything from Ballistic at this point (hence my answer below). So I take it their tube adapters aren't threaded all the way through, so you're recommending that I grind 1/8" off of the threaded part of the rod end?

I should get my first order of rod ends from Ballistic today. Thing is, I'll have 6 RH joints, but 3 RH and 3 LH tube adapters. That was due to a mistake by me on my online order, followed by a mistake by them after I'd called to correct it. When I mentioned the obvious discrepancy in parts, Kyle said I'd mentioned I had some Johnny Joints, so he thought that may have been why.

After Kyle tells me that they'd be ready to ship out immediately, I ordered the fronts online yesterday. Then I got an email from Dave saying they're waiting for their joints. Turns out they ran out of 9/16" balls, but they could ship out 5/8" balls today. I'd be looking at "beginning of next week," for the 9/16" balls, assuming they get them back from the zinc plater on time. I will say they are making a real effort to communicate. Dave emailed me twice from home last night--last time at about 11pm.

Seems that Ballistic isn't trying to tie up much money in inventory. Either that, or they simply can't catch up with demand for their product, which is now international.

**aw12345** · 09-28-10, 02:58 PM

Chuck is right about grinding the last part of the LH threaded inserts, somehow they are not completely threaded through at the end, the thread us there but seems not deep enough at the last thread. As far as their ordering situation goes, they make or farm out batches of stuff, and do not order a batch until they have a sufficent order sold. I waited3 weeks for 2 heims canceled the order got them somewhere else in 3 days.
Then waited over a month for a refund, had the money put towards a histeer arm that finally showed up after 3 months. Unless you really need their products or are extremely patient, I will in the future find my parts somewhere else. Nothing wrong with currie JJ's by the way, they are simple, very durabla, not real expensive and have no issues with premature wear. To top it of it's cheap to rebuild them, about 7 bucks a joint for the big ones if I remember correctly

**dirtman13** · 09-28-10, 03:31 PM

[COLOR=black]I learned very quickly to call Ballistic first and make sure what I needed was in stock before I placed my orders. Going this route netted much quicker ship times. If they didn't have what I needed I would use Poly, RuffStuff and a few others. I had to wait on a few things but nothing that made me never want to order from them again. [/COLOR]

[COLOR=black]As you mentioned their products are in high demand so planning accordingly will minimize any headaches. I love their products so it was worth the wait for me.[/COLOR]

**inVERt'D** · 09-28-10, 05:28 PM

Originally posted by aw12345

Chuck is right about grinding the last part of the LH threaded inserts, somehow they are not completely threaded through at the end, the thread us there but seems not deep enough at the last thread.

Ok, grinding the thread insert makes a lot more sense to me.

I just got my first rod end order a little while ago, and I noticed that the RH and LH bungs are completely different designs. The LH are what's shown in the online store, but I actually like the RH bungS better--more like a shorter version of their "race" version. Unfortunately it seems I accidentally ordered the LH bungs for 1.75" OD tube instead of 2.00" :oops:

Originally posted by aw12345

As far as their ordering situation goes, they make or farm out batches of stuff, and do not order a batch until they have a sufficent order sold. I waited3 weeks for 2 heims canceled the order got them somewhere else in 3 days.
Then waited over a month for a refund, had the money put towards a histeer arm that finally showed up after 3 months. Unless you really need their products or are extremely patient, I will in the future find my parts somewhere else.

Sorry to hear about your bad experiences with Ballistic, Art. That would put a bad taste in my mouth too. In fact, I'd be pretty pissed off.

The only time I had a problem with them that actually irked me was the first time I ordered from them. I ordered about $100 worth of stuff for my homemade crossover steering, and after waiting for an extra week or more (IIRC), I called back to find out they were waiting on the jam nuts. After that I have always made sure to check on lead times before I order. Like dirtman13 says, if they can't get me what I need quickly enough, I'll go with someone else. In fact, if I really have to have something quickly, someone like Poly Performance or Summit will probably be the first ones I go to. Most of the time, they get things to me the next day at regular ground rates!

Nothing wrong with currie JJ's by the way, they are simple, very durabla, not real expensive and have no issues with premature wear. To top it of it's cheap to rebuild them, about 7 bucks a joint for the big ones if I remember correctly

Yeah, I like Currie's Johnny Joints. In fact, I like Currie's products in general. They've had a good name in motorsports for quite awhile, and it's not because they've been making junk. I went with the Ballistic Joints for 2 reasons: 1) I like the design better, namely the threaded retainers and the ability to tighten the joints up with a spanner--even while installed. 2) They're made in USA with USA steel. Now there's a little bit of my money that isn't going to the Red Frickin Army.

Originally posted by dirtman13

I learned very quickly to call Ballistic first and make sure what I needed was in stock before I placed my orders. Going this route netted much quicker ship times. If they didn't have what I needed I would use Poly, RuffStuff and a few others. I had to wait on a few things but nothing that made me never want to order from them again.

Been my experience too. I know Art's not alone, though. I've heard of other people voicing very similar complaints, and even worse. Thing is, every growing company experiences growing pains. As long as Ballistic keeps their manufacturing here, I'm inclined to be more forgiving of their shortcomings.

**aw12345** · 09-28-10, 05:36 PM

David, I hate to tell you but some of their stuff arrives in containers or so they told me, ya can do the math from there.
The whole adjustable thing on JJ style joints seems somewhat overblown, my little Jeep has had used currie JJ's for years
I have only had to rebuilt one so far at a cost of 7 bucks, no need for wrenches or what not, those things are simple and extremely durable

**RAT** · 09-28-10, 06:09 PM

I use the Currie JJs and have never had a problem. As Art said, easy to rebuild, and they are easy to adjust. That whole Made in China thing is BS. There is a whole lot of stuff out there made in China. You can spend more time worrying about where your junk is made than you spend building it.
I haven't had any trouble with LCAs self adjusting. If you build them and adjust them correctly you can land hard on them, drag them over rocks with no spinning. Mine are scarred already and no movement at all. I went LH/RH. Even Curries LH joints have the thread issue. On Curries it looks like the thread on the rod end is slightly different pitch that the tube end. Some never seize takes care of it.
Since you already bought the Ballistic parts, install them and enjoy them. Chuck's seem to just as well as the Curries so the only diff is $$$.

**inVERt'D** · 09-28-10, 06:11 PM

A Dealer's Perspective on Ballistic Joints vs Johnny Joints

What I'd really like to get out of this present thread is input on my questions above. I just started another thread about this Ballistic Joint vs. Johnny Joint thing.

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/sh...099#post176099

**inVERt'D** · 09-28-10, 06:44 PM

Originally posted by aw12345 View Post

David, I hate to tell you but some of their stuff arrives in containers or so they told me, ya can do the math from there.
The whole adjustable thing on JJ style joints seems somewhat overblown, my little Jeep has had used currie JJ's for years
I have only had to rebuilt one so far at a cost of 7 bucks, no need for wrenches or what not, those things are simple and extremely durable

It may be overblown. Like I said, I like the Johnny Joints, and I like Currie. I just like Ballistic more. Granted, I've never actually used either the Johnny Joints or Ballistic Joints.

As far as their manufacturing goes, I'd like to know what they do and don't get from overseas. It seems that Ballistic has been investing a lot of money in new equipment, so that tells me they are able to do more in-house than they were a year or two ago.

Originally posted by rat patrol

I use the Currie JJs and have never had a problem. As Art said, easy to rebuild, and they are easy to adjust. That whole Made in China thing is BS. There is a whole lot of stuff out there made in China. You can spend more time worrying about where your junk is made than you spend building it.
....
Since you already bought the Ballistic parts, install them and enjoy them. Chuck's seem to just as well as the Curries so the only diff is $$$.

Kurt, I'm happy to have those JJs I bought from you, and happy about the deal you gave me. Up until that time, in fact, I'd never heard anything but good about them. I don't doubt that they're a quality product. Currie has well-deserved reputation, and I'm sure wherever they're being made, Currie is keeping a close eye on things. If they're being made in China, a close eye is exactly what's called for.

I don't spend a lot of time worrying about it, but in this case, buying American wasn't much more trouble than buying *whatever*. I'm not so sure the made in China thing is B.S. I intend to look into it further, but check out that thread I just posted. Like I said there, if Johnny Joints were made in USA, Currie (like most any company) would have that posted up conspicuously.

I know very well how difficult it has gotten to source some things domestically. I've worked on major publicly funded projects where we had a contractual obligation to source domestic products unless doing so was unreasonably difficult. Guess what, sourcing things like rebar and dowel bar steel was always unreasonably difficult, and we always got out of it (speaking of the past few years). That sucks.

Originally posted by rat patrol

I haven't had any trouble with LCAs self adjusting. If you build them and adjust them correctly you can land hard on them, drag them over rocks with no spinning. Mine are scarred already and no movement at all. I went LH/RH. Even Curries LH joints have the thread issue. On Curries it looks like the thread on the rod end is slightly different pitch that the tube end. Some never seize takes care of it.

Thank you, this is the feedback I was looking for here

.

**inVERt'D** · 09-28-10, 07:19 PM

Any more thoughts on 5/8" bolts?

Ballistic, apologetic for putting my order off for a week, offered to RMA the 9/16" balls I ordered and send out all 5/8" balls with the rest of my order today. Turns out, however, that 1/2 of the balls they sent me were 5/8", so I'll be RMAing something for sure--either the 9/16" or 5/8".

Looking at the Johnny Joint balls, they look plenty thick enough to drill them out for 5/8" with no problems.

Any reasons NOT to go with 5/8" bolts?

**RAT** · 09-28-10, 09:00 PM

Originally posted by inVERt'D View Post

Ballistic, apologetic for putting my order off for a week, offered to RMA the 9/16" balls I ordered and send out all 5/8" balls with the rest of my order today. Turns out, however, that 1/2 of the balls they sent me were 5/8", so I'll be RMAing something for sure--either the 9/16" or 5/8".

Looking at the Johnny Joint balls, they look plenty thick enough to drill them out for 5/8" with no problems.

Any reasons NOT to go with 5/8" bolts?

Just go 9/16. You don't have to drill or anything. I use the 9/16 and they are more than enough beef for anything I have been able to throw at them.

**dirtman13** · 09-29-10, 06:59 AM

the ability to tighten the joints up with a spanner--even while installed

Just an FYI. That spanner wrench is really not that great. I have it and I can not adjust my joints with them installed. That is with Ballistic joints and Ballistic brackets.

Just get the spanner tool for your ratchet wrench tighten to spec and be done.

**inVERt'D** · 09-29-10, 09:08 AM

Originally posted by rat patrol

Just go 9/16. You don't have to drill or anything. I use the 9/16 and they are more than enough beef for anything I have been able to throw at them

That's good to know. I had actually wondered if the reason you sold those two JJs was because you wanted to go 5/8". It's as much about time now as beef.

Originally posted by dirtman13

Just an FYI. That spanner wrench is really not that great. I have it and I can not adjust my joints with them installed. That is with Ballistic joints and Ballistic brackets.

Just get the spanner tool for your ratchet wrench tighten to spec and be done.

Figures. I already bought the spanner wrench. I've read others' reviews where they commented that they were able to snug them up while installed. I guess it would all have to depend on your bracketry and how everything was lined up. If I had thought about using a torque wrench, I would have bought the spanner socket instead.

**dirtman13** · 09-29-10, 10:00 AM

Originally posted by inVERt'D View Post

Figures. I already bought the spanner wrench. I've read others' reviews where they commented that they were able to snug them up while installed. I guess it would all have to depend on your bracketry and how everything was lined up. If I had thought about using a torque wrench, I would have bought the spanner socket instead.

Just remember that Ballistic recommends a torque on their joints to 30 ft/lbs then tighten one more notch on the spanner nut.

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