This is the work I have done to my jeep in the last couple of weeks.
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Cool! Hope to be doing something similar myself soon. No way around it, really. Been playing with the calculators and such for awhile now. What factors made you decide to go with the lowers off of the frame rails instead of a more triangulated design (i.e., more centered on a crossmember)?holes = cowbell
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David if I had changed to a flat skid plate and coilovers, I would had Triangulated the bottom arms probably. This design worked for me because of simplicity of installation. It seems to work very well with my shocks and springs.IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!
Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!
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Kevin we do need to get out again. Is your jeep back home? I need to come by and check out that sweet fab work.IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!
Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!
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Originally posted by curtis View PostDavid if I had changed to a flat skid plate and coilovers, I would had Triangulated the bottom arms probably. This design worked for me because of simplicity of installation. It seems to work very well with my shocks and springs.holes = cowbell
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David it took me a few mounths to figure out what I wanted to do. Then I welded all the brackets together. Then welded the brackets to the jeep. Then I did the control arms one corner at a time. The lower arms are 28" long.IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!
Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!
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i could be wrong but from my understanding is that just because the upers and lowers anrent triangulated dramatically doesnt mean that they arent trianulated.
u just have to think a little farther. with his setup now his suspension is a triangle. it just isnt at a steep angle. if u lengthed his links they would eventually come together to form a triangle. i plan on doing something very similar to my xj being that i dont want to cut into the body. not sure how it will come out, but its all fab. youre never done. curtis very nice job. i like how u used the coils. coilovers arent for every one. yoiur welds look good too. keep it up. and dave hurry up with yours i want to see how it works for ya. i let u work out all the kinks then ill copy it
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new truss
Made a truss for my front axle
So now I want to replace my front tract bar. What are you guys using for the tube? Will probably use the ends off my old tract bars or RE flex jointsIN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!
Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!
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That came out pretty nice Curtis, remember now to take it easy. Your old trackbar getting in the way of your truss? That Currie trackbar actually uses fairly thin tubing but holds up just fine. Had to change mone some since I trussed the front axle and pushed it forward a bit, you could use heim joints since it helps with clearance. The JJ's are kinda bigger than need be for a trackbar
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Art I moved the frame mount hole forward about 1.5" with a modified bracket. But now I don't need the old bent tract bar. So I was going to make a new strait one. I was going to use the heim off the rear bar. Should I just use some 1.25 CM tubing.IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!
Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!
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I'd suggest mild steel DOM unless you're actually going to properly heat treat the chromo. If you don't heat treat it, the strength benefits are marginal and the risk of cracking at or near a weld much higher.
The stock TJ track bars are solid forged pieces and I don't think I've ever seen or heard of a broken one. On the other hand I've seen/ and heard of a number of aftermarket ones on which ball joint or heim has broken.
Oh, and you gotta quit posting up these pics of your already-finished suspension work--you're making it look too easy!Last edited by inVERt'D; 09-26-10, 07:58 PM.holes = cowbell
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