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Originally posted by Materdaddy
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Matt, I think he's talking about the new redneck dome light--says Philips on it plain as day.holes = cowbell -
Yup way better than rock lights
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With that thing and no sheetmetal in the way, you won't need any rock lights.Originally posted by aw12345 View PostYup way better than rock lights
Seriously, I was trying to figure out the same thing as Matt. Your whole frame seems to have the same patina, so where's the new work?
From your spreadsheet, it appears you're thinking of a wishbone 3-link for the rear?holes = cowbellComment
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Compare the passenger side to the driverside especially where the C clamps are.
Yes I am keeping the trilink, not my favorite but it's there and can give me the numbers I am afterComment
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Maybe not the best angles on those pics, but it looks like you brought the bottoms of the sides inboard, and eliminated some tubing from the rear corner for more of a "boat car" shape.
I'd forgotten that you bought the rear axle with the 3-link bracketry already on it.holes = cowbellComment
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Upon closer inspection, that's what I'm seeing too. I like it. Bring the bottom part of the cage to the frame and don't stick out as much. :thumbs_upOriginally posted by inVERt'D View Post
Art, keep the pictures coming, us web wheelers depend on it for our sanity. Same w/ the Christmas lights. I can't get enough of 'em...If we aren't supposed to eat animals, then why are they made out of meat?
http://jeep.matandtiff.com/
Truth is treason in the empire of lies. -Ron PaulComment
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Spend some time yesterday and today, farting around with my buggy project.
Got the drivers side angled in like I wanted yesterday.
Today picked up a stick of 1.5' x 0.120 wall tubing to fix the back end.
Cut some crossmember pieces out and cut 2 old driveshafts so I can turn them into one that will fit the rear. Since the slip yoke is in the trans it's going to take a bit of doing to get the length right.
Now that I have room between the frame rails I can start thinking about a crossmember that will clear the rear driveshaft and braces the rear control arm frame mounts, actually going to try and tie this thing to the front lower control arms also. Will make for a nice base for the belly pan. Going to have to make it so I can run 2 exhaust pipes to the back and there is a good change that I will run 2 tubes to the back for a rear mount radiator.
Unless I can use a TJ radiator that I have, that one seems to fit better than the stock Nissan radiator. It will allow me to mount it higher so I can cut and raise the front of the frame for clearance for the steering ram and high steer.
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Nice job Art.So cool watching y'all work out ur setups.Dennis and Tammy
Its as much fun getting dirty as it is being dirty in a Jeep!Comment
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Dennis, that's the most fun really, to take something give it your own spin and eventually make it work really wellOriginally posted by GP4Play View PostComment
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You running, aluminum control arms? Whats the life span on those, if they are aluminum, on a hammers rig like yours?It was like that when I got here.Comment
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Aluminum will flex and go back to position, where as steel bends.You can lead a horse to water, but it might drownComment
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Started to put the grinder in the rear suspension to give it my touch.
Hope to make some progress with it today.
Subtle difference
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Moving right along
Was doing some brain storming and it looks like I am going to use 2 piece rear driveshaft. Will make me feel better about the slip yoke in the rear of the trans, it will also allow me to built a crossmember between the frame side rear control arm mounts and incorporate the intermediate driveshaft support bearing in it. Then use a regular driveshaft with a slip yoke for the rear shaft. That way I can for one keep the drive line angles at a reasonable.
level Nor have to worry as much about the yoke sliding in and out of the transmission.Comment
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Done screwing around with it for the day, Looking better, still has several inches of travel left
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