Regearing my dana 35 and dana 30 on TJ

[Huntersbo]

I am planing on regearing my dana 35 adn 30 from 3.07 to 4.56 gears. I understand that I need to get the back lash correct by adjusting the pinion depth and position of carrier (detroit locker) left to right by adding and removing shims. I would then carefully break it in checking immediatly to see if it operates smooth, drive easy for the first thrity minuites then rest for an hour an drive a little longer. Anything I hould know?

[kcruisin]

D-35

I'd like to be the first to say; it's wrong to put money in a D-35, to regear it is to abuse an already weak-link.
If you're committed, be sure to carry jack-stands with the spare shafts. I hate to watch people bet their lives on a jack.
Steve

[swbooking]

Save your money, swap your rear axle, and THEN re-gear once... If you do a little search you'll see why gearing the 35 is not recomended.

[Huntersbo]

thanks for the replys. I can not spend 2800 $$ on a dana44 but if my axil is not up to par I will upgrade. I understand that the dana 35 and dana 44 have the same size pinion shaft, the dana 44 has larger axil shafts, ring gear 8.5" vs. 7.5" and a stronger case. I have considered the ford 9" having axils almost as stout as a dana 60 as well as the ring gear and an enormous pinion gear but I have found sources showing that the ford 9" has a thin case and a narrow pinion shaft. Dana 60s and sterlings will be expensive after I get new axil shafts, cut down the tubes and get brackets to fit the tubes I think. The ford 8.8" is popular but I am questioning; the case wall thickness, the pinion shaft diameter. I am serously planning on regearing this axil my self as a first timer and my experience is primarily tearing into small block fords, and tuning holley 2 barrels, splicing duraspark distributers to MSD, but I expect a re gear job to be quite a step up but I am willing to learn on my lower budget.

[igofshn]

If you do put money into it, put in a S35. I ran one in my TJ for 5 years and wheeled some pretty hairy places. Never had a problem

[Huntersbo]

Ok so after I successfully get my 4.56/4.88 gears successfully placed in what is my weakest link? There are no u-joints in the rear so would it be the axil shafts before I put in the big axilz and detroit locker? Or would the case be the weak link? I could truss it if the case was the weak link but it might be better to go weak on the axil shafts for the differenchials sake if I were to keep this rear end. I do not expect to break a detroit locker or a ring gear.

[Russ Chung]

I am planing on regearing my dana 35 and 30 from 3.07 to 4.56 gears. I understand that I need to get the back lash correct by adjusting the pinion depth and position of carrier (detroit locker) left to right by adding and removing shims. I would then carefully break it in checking immediatly to see if it operates smooth, drive easy for the first thrity minuites then rest for an hour an drive a little longer. Anything I should know?

I don't know if a Detroit comes with it's own carrier, but if not, you will need a new carrier because going from 3.07 to anything more than 3.55 requires a different carrier (the difference in the depth of the R&P is such that shims alone can't do it). Definitely get stronger axle shafts (and carry trail spares). Here's what happened to a Jeep on Miller Jeep Trail with a D35, Detroit and stock axles last summer:

[SIZED]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/UF92134/Lockwood%20Miller%20Jeep%20Trail%202006%20Jul%2015/P1030776.jpg[/SIZED]

[SIZED]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/UF92134/Lockwood%20Miller%20Jeep%20Trail%202006%20Jul%2015/P1030777.jpg[/SIZED]

And this is a Jeep on Crown King Trail with a D35, open diffs and stock axles last summer:

[SIZED]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/UF92134/Crown%20King%202006-Aug-19/P1040041.jpg[/SIZED]

[SIZED]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/UF92134/Crown%20King%202006-Aug-19/P1040046.jpg[/SIZED]

[pdw]

thanks for the replys. I can not spend 2800 $$ on a dana44 but if my axil is not up to par I will upgrade. I understand that the dana 35 and dana 44 have the same size pinion shaft, the dana 44 has larger axil shafts, ring gear 8.5" vs. 7.5" and a stronger case. I have considered the ford 9" having axils almost as stout as a dana 60 as well as the ring gear and an enormous pinion gear but I have found sources showing that the ford 9" has a thin case and a narrow pinion shaft. Dana 60s and sterlings will be expensive after I get new axil shafts, cut down the tubes and get brackets to fit the tubes I think. The ford 8.8" is popular but I am questioning; the case wall thickness, the pinion shaft diameter. I am serously planning on regearing this axil my self as a first timer and my experience is primarily tearing into small block fords, and tuning holley 2 barrels, splicing duraspark distributers to MSD, but I expect a re gear job to be quite a step up but I am willing to learn on my lower budget.

I have a used, but complete Super 35 kit with a Detroit locker that I'll sell you for $200. You can take the entire axle assembly out of my side yard-it has 4.88 gears and the entire brake assembly is included-if you want it, send my a PM and we can talk.
**FYI-The axle tubes are twisted-everything else-shafts, gears, Detroit are ok-so you would have to transfer the good parts out of my axle into yours. But, for for the price you might consider a trip to South Orange County.....Also consider having your tubes welded where they enter the housing.

[pdw]

Ok so after I successfully get my 4.56/4.88 gears successfully placed in what is my weakest link? There are no u-joints in the rear so would it be the axil shafts before I put in the big axilz and detroit locker? Or would the case be the weak link? I could truss it if the case was the weak link but it might be better to go weak on the axil shafts for the differenchials sake if I were to keep this rear end. I do not expect to break a detroit locker or a ring gear.

I my particular instance, it was the axle housing that was the "weak link." Supposedly, the Super 35 kit is equal in strength to a stock Dana 44.
So, if you have the capability to truss a Dana 35 and then use a Super 35 kit and limit your tire size to 33" you could wheel some fairly rough trails. Nothing in Johnson Valley, but I'd say that you could run the Rubicon.....

[swbooking]

Ok so after I successfully get my 4.56/4.88 gears successfully placed in what is my weakest link? There are no u-joints in the rear so would it be the axil shafts before I put in the big axilz and detroit locker? Or would the case be the weak link? I could truss it if the case was the weak link but it might be better to go weak on the axil shafts for the differenchials sake if I were to keep this rear end. I do not expect to break a detroit locker or a ring gear.

Nothing you do to the D35 is gonna make it a worthwile axle. Not that i havent wheeled mine pretty hard when i had it but why put money into an infeior axle? Just save it and put it all towards a better axle...

EDIT: and going to a gear ratio of 4.10+ with a D35, you will bust a ring gear.

[markw]

I think the D44 rubicon housings are around $500 from mopar. $2800 for a complete axle seems a bit HIGH to me. You could get a mopar housing and stuff it with your own parts. Another option is a Currie 9" "crate axle" which for a TJ is $1400 for the housing and axles. Check the junkyards, I'm sure someone's rolled/crashed a Rubicon by now. My 44 took about 6 months of junkyard visits. Whatever you do, no matter how much polishing you do on the 35, it's still a turd. I donated mine to a TJ guy who wanted it for trail spares since he'd busted a couple shafts on 33's. With the Currie 9", you could throw a high pinion carrier in it and greatly improve your driveline angle. I wouldn't worry too much about breaking a 9", they're pretty tough.

Edit: Also, if you are doing axles, grab an XJ front out of the junkyard, throw your shafts in it and regear that, as it will also improve your driveshaft angle being a high pinion. Non Disconnect with ABS from the mid 90's have the larger U joints. Cost of the upgrade will be about $150 give or take depending on the yard.

[xjkevin]

what size tires are you runnin..theres 2 xj 44s on recycler for 300.00

[markw]

what size tires are you runnin..theres 2 xj 44s on recycler for 300.00

Those are the right width, but would need TJ bracketry. If you can pull one from ecology or Pap, 87-90 XJ's with towing came with 44's. Technically they're a station wagon, so when they ask if it's a car axle or truck, say car. $75 vs $150. I got a cashier that knew it was a 44 and wouldn't buy off on the station wagon excuse so I paid the full $150. If you don't feel like pulling one, then there is the auto trader, craigslist and the recycler. $300 is about the going rate.

[Huntersbo]

thanks for that offer on your super 35 but I think I will look for a heavier axil. Does the ford 8.8 have a thick case compared to the d44? I heard the TJ d44s had thiner tubes than old d44s. If they did have as strong of tubes as the old d44s then the d44 off a cherokee or wrangler stock 4 link would be ideal. Of course a ford 9" with high pinion would ease my pinion angle on the drive shaft. I definatly want to run rubicon eventually but now I am just training my self and beefing my jeep up for Big Bear and Bronco Peak.

[pdw]

Nothing you do to the D35 is gonna make it a worthwile axle. Not that i havent wheeled mine pretty hard when i had it but why put money into an infeior axle? Just save it and put it all towards a better axle...

EDIT: and going to a gear ratio of 4.10+ with a D35, you will bust a ring gear.

I have heard about this theoretical ring gear destruction if you gear the D35 over 4.10. Although I am not an expert, but from my experiances I just don't see it. (I could see if you were running a v-8 and bigger than 33" tires and using the gas to make up for driving skill.)

Would you mind educating me on this variance?
1) Does the r&p gear thickness change that much at or above 4.10 gears?
2) If so, then why does the factory install 4.10 gears in the 4cyl Jeeps?
3) Why did my 4.88 gears survive for 2+ years while rock crawling on 33" MTR's (what I consider a heavy tire) and 4.1 gearing?