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  • #16
    the key there is no lockers. You will be fine on that axle with NO lockers, but if you ever want to do lockers, that is a weak axle. I do know some people that have run 33's on the 35 with a lunchbox, but they have a slushbox... that 5spd is gonna be tough on a locker, I have a 5spd, I know. I just picked up a Dana 44 rear axle at the junk yard out of a cherokee the other day for $140- it will cost me about $1150 to have 4west put in 48 gears, a detroit locker and all the brackets I need to mount it up to a '04 TJ then another $700-800 to get 48 gears and a limited slip put in the front Dana 30. the Dana 30 is a pretty good axle, Ive been running it with 35's and a detroit with no problems...
    :gun: my rifle is not illegal, it's just undocumented... :gun:

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    • #17
      Originally posted by DarkWolfTJ View Post
      03 TJ with NP231 and 5 speed going to 33" BFG AT tires and steel wheels. 30 up front 35 in the rear. No lockers.
      I run with the same set-up, 5sp 33's w/4:56's, it's like stock, good choice but I have a 44 in the rear (ARB locked & OX up front D30.

      If your just going to larger tires w/o lockers you should be fine. You could do a locker up front only for now, (a selectable one) it will make a huge difference and the D30 is strong enough. Seem like a lot of money and work just for gears but that's your choice.

      B&T TJ

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Black & Tan TJ View Post
        Seem like a lot of money and work just for gears but that's your choice.

        B&T TJ
        Should I avoid the regear then? I thought that this was a needed upgrade. For performance and wear...

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        • #19
          Originally posted by DarkWolfTJ View Post
          Should I avoid the regear then? I thought that this was a needed upgrade. For performance and wear...
          The reason for re-gearing is to get your power back to compensate for bigger tires, or to increase the response of the vehicle by moving the torque curve lower.

          If you're going to wheel the rig, lower gears are a must. What everyone is saying, though, is that it is somewhat pointless to upgrade an inherently weak axle, because you'll wind up spending that money AGAIN when you upgrade to a stronger axle, and re-gear that.

          However, there are alternatives. Superior sells the "Super 35" kit that does significantly improve the strength of the D35. I have seen people flog on this kit ruthlessly and it survived. It's expensive, but if you're not up for the whole axle swap thing, then it is an option. It's not cheap, but if you're determined to stay with the D35, then it's the only way to go if you're going to wheel it.

          Another option is to find a set of Rubicon axles, which are pretty much a bolt-in upgrade for a TJ. You can find them anywhere from $1500 - $3000 for a pair, depending on how hard you look and how good your timing is.
          '96 XJ, HP D30 front, XJ D44 rear, Lockright/E-Locker, 4.56's, Cobra CB, 33" Pro Comp xTreme MT's, SYE, Smittybilt XRC10 winch with Synth Rope, mutt lift.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by peteyg View Post
            The reason for re-gearing is to get your power back to compensate for bigger tires, or to increase the response of the vehicle by moving the torque curve lower.

            If you're going to wheel the rig, lower gears are a must. What everyone is saying, though, is that it is somewhat pointless to upgrade an inherently weak axle, because you'll wind up spending that money AGAIN when you upgrade to a stronger axle, and re-gear that.

            However, there are alternatives. Superior sells the "Super 35" kit that does significantly improve the strength of the D35. I have seen people flog on this kit ruthlessly and it survived. It's expensive, but if you're not up for the whole axle swap thing, then it is an option. It's not cheap, but if you're determined to stay with the D35, then it's the only way to go if you're going to wheel it.

            Another option is to find a set of Rubicon axles, which are pretty much a bolt-in upgrade for a TJ. You can find them anywhere from $1500 - $3000 for a pair, depending on how hard you look and how good your timing is.
            Up until recently I thought that my D35 axle w/the Super 35 kit, Detroit Locker and 4.88 gearing was fairly indestructable. The axles themselves have survived the 33" MTR's the Detroit and the torque from 4.1 gearing for about two years now.
            IMO: It's the axle housing and tubes that seem to be the culprit. I recently managed to "spin" both axle tubes about 45° in opposite directions while trying to climb a 4' ledge out at Calico.
            So, two years ago when I originally made the decision to go w/a Super 35 instead of spending another $1k and get a new Dana 44-I thought that I would be saving myself some money. Well, I just spend $3300 on a new Currie 9"---so what does that tell you?
            Spend now-play later.
            Money pit!

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            • #21
              By the way-if you are looking for a Super 35 Kit, Detroit Locker and 4.88 gears, I just happen to know where some are.......
              Money pit!

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              • #22
                I did the same thing as pdw: spent a ton of money on the D35 then mashed the housing. You can learn from our mistakes or pay later
                "your jeep looks so hot!!"

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by DarkWolfTJ View Post
                  Should I avoid the regear then? I thought that this was a needed upgrade. For performance and wear...
                  No don't avoid it just understand where you what to go with it. If most of your driving is on the street then just the regear w/open diff's isn't the end of the world, you can still wheel.
                  Your getting excellent advise here from experience (not mine though). Just remember, keep it fun.

                  B&T TJ

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