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sye hack and tap??

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  • sye hack and tap??

    ok here is my? im going to but it on a 01 tj, has anyone had any problems with this setup and if so what should i look for? is this set up as good as people say it is:confused:
    Not In The Office Look For Me on The Trail's!
    It's a "Jeep Thing" you just wouldn't understand ....

  • #2
    I'm pretty sure Allen (swbooking) has it... He seems to like it, although getting an AA SYE kit isn't much more, and is definitely stronger. The Hack & Tap uses the stock transfer case output shaft, while any of the SYE kits will replace it with an HD version.
    If we aren't supposed to eat animals, then why are they made out of meat?

    http://jeep.matandtiff.com/

    Truth is treason in the empire of lies. -Ron Paul

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    • #3
      Mats right, I have that setup and the scariest part is tapping the hole but youll get it just go slow and cutting oil/WD40 is a must. If you have the money just do an AA style SYE. but ive had absolutely no problems with my SYE and i go everywhere i want to. If youd like your welcome to come take a look at it installed...
      |90 XJ|4.0|AX-15|NP231|RE H&T|TnT Y-Link|RE Coils|BOR Leaves|ACOS|D30/Aussie|8.8/ARB|35" Kevlar MTRs|Custom Exo,Sliders,Bumpers|

      !!! outdoorlogic.net !!!

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      • #4
        Avoid it if possible. They can be tricky to install since your cut-off (hack) needs to be accurate and it's harden steel, a hacksaw may not cut it (punn intended). The AA kit can be installed w/o removing the T-case. I had someone install mine for about $200

        B&T TJ

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        • #5
          All we did for mine was use duct tape and wraped the shaft where it needed to be cut, cut it a little longer with a angle grinder and grinded it smooth and straight (eyeballed it). If anything getting the hole drilled nice and straight for the tap is the harder part.
          |90 XJ|4.0|AX-15|NP231|RE H&T|TnT Y-Link|RE Coils|BOR Leaves|ACOS|D30/Aussie|8.8/ARB|35" Kevlar MTRs|Custom Exo,Sliders,Bumpers|

          !!! outdoorlogic.net !!!

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          • #6
            :smile: thks for the 411, looks like i will go with it will take some pic along the way and post later if anyone would like to see them.
            Not In The Office Look For Me on The Trail's!
            It's a "Jeep Thing" you just wouldn't understand ....

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            • #7
              Here are some pics of it when we were installing it...


              |90 XJ|4.0|AX-15|NP231|RE H&T|TnT Y-Link|RE Coils|BOR Leaves|ACOS|D30/Aussie|8.8/ARB|35" Kevlar MTRs|Custom Exo,Sliders,Bumpers|

              !!! outdoorlogic.net !!!

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              • #8
                i have the hack & tap sye (NP242 t-case though) and the method i used to cut it was to pull the front driveshaft (rear too, obviously), had the engine running and put it in gear so the output shaft was turning- i then used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to make the cut, which turned out nice & straight due to the lathe-like action of the spinning output shaft. drilled & tapped the hole- no problems.

                the shaft is case hardened, so the metal that you have to drill/tap isn't as hard as the metal you have to cut. still, go slow and use oil on both the drill and on the tap.

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                • #9
                  I have been running a hack and tap for 6 years with no problem at all. 2 years with a 4-1 kit... and I break everything. the cut doesn;t even really have to be straight...neither does the hole... all the tapped hole does is keep the flange from falling off, there isn't much force on it.
                  It's not what you have. it's what you do with what you have.

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                  • #10
                    I ran it for years. The straighter the cut the fewer issues that you will have. It worked well for the price. Now I would run the $200 JB standard kit.
                    I can break a steel ball in a rubber room.
                    Shaffers Offroad - El Diablo III - Soon!

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