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  • runs rough

    The other night I was out wheeling when all of a sudden my Jeep quit running. I ended up spraying approx. 2/3rds of a can of quick start down the carb and still never got it started. The next day in the daylight I could see I wasn't getting any fuel in the carb so I bought a new fuel pump and put it on. The jeep started right up but it's running really rough and has loss power (that could be due to it just running rough) Any ideas what happened. It was running just fine until I replaced the fuel pump. I've also taken the pump off and blew clear all the fuel lines and they appear to be fine.
    thanks for any advice.

    Dave

  • #2
    Originally posted by Jeeper Creeper View Post
    The other night I was out wheeling when all of a sudden my Jeep quit running. I ended up spraying approx. 2/3rds of a can of quick start down the carb and still never got it started. The next day in the daylight I could see I wasn't getting any fuel in the carb so I bought a new fuel pump and put it on. The jeep started right up but it's running really rough and has loss power (that could be due to it just running rough) Any ideas what happened. It was running just fine until I replaced the fuel pump. I've also taken the pump off and blew clear all the fuel lines and they appear to be fine.
    thanks for any advice.

    Dave
    Did you also replace your fuel filter?
    Donate Life - Be a tissue, organ and blood donor

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    • #3
      I didn't replace the fuel filter because I disconnected all the fuel line and blew threw them. There didn't seem to be any obstructions when I blew threw the fuel filter. I think I heard once that starting fluid could cause you to burn a valve or a hole in the piston? not sure....... but it's sounds like I maybe running on only five cyclinders?

      Dave

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      • #4
        It's unlikely that you burned a valve or piston because you'd have to squirt a lot of starter fluid into it and get the engine running on it for quite awhile.
        1. check your vacuum lines for leaks and cracks; the starter fluid might have eaten away some of the lines
        2. run a compression check just to make sure that the valves, rings and pistons are OK.
        3. another possibility is that as the old fuel pump was failing, it might have sent debris through the line and clogged some of the internal passages in the carburetor.
        If you don't like the way I drive, stay out of the bushes!
        KI6MLU

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        • #5
          I'll second the filter, a dirty filter can reduce the pumping presure. I had a varnished filter on my motorhome's generator recently. It would run for about an hour then sputter, rattle like a piston was going then stop running and not restart. Put in a new filter (cheapest thing in the system) and the problem seemed to go away (I carry a spare). In this case the fuel is drawn through the filter, not under pressure so any restriction kills pumping volume. Point, try a filter change, a compression check will let you know the valve/piston condition. Let's hope for the best.

          B&T TJ

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          • #6
            um if all that don't work. you used starter fluid and a lot of it, when you was doing that did it ever act like it locked up or start up and die sudden if so they call that a starter fluid lock can bend rods crack heads and so on really not good. starting fluid really is not good for a gas engine at all
            I'm not say that this is what happened and I really hope it ain't but thought id let you know I have seen it many times.

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            • #7
              Ok today I'll replace the fuel filter and keep my fingers crossed. If the carb sucked up some debris, what's the best thing to pour in the carb to help clean it out?
              And also it did act like it was going to start up and die sudden, did that a couple of times.
              thanks for all the feed back, I'll post back after I replace the fuel filter today.
              Dave

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              • #8
                I just replaced the fuel filter and it didn't help. I think I'll go ahead a pull the head so I can check push rods and take a look at the top of my pistons. I'll post back with what I find out.

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                • #9
                  don't pull the head yet do a compress-en test first will let you know if that is the problem
                  and check the fuel presser coming to your carb
                  also make sure the needle in the carb is not stuck shut from being out of fuel

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                  • #10
                    Sounds worth a try since I'm not looking forward to pulling the head. Will a bent push rod effect the compression?
                    I'm not really sure how to check if a needle is stuck on the carb. Can I spray carb cleaner on it while it is running to clear or unstick anything?
                    thanks,
                    Dave

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jeeper Creeper View Post
                      Sounds worth a try since I'm not looking forward to pulling the head. Will a bent push rod effect the compression?
                      I'm not really sure how to check if a needle is stuck on the carb. Can I spray carb cleaner on it while it is running to clear or unstick anything?
                      thanks,
                      Dave
                      I don't know of any easy way to tell if the carburetor is dirty or if the needle is stuck except to take it apart and clean it. The only reason to suspect contamination in your carb is that your engine was running OK before the fuel pump died, and now it's running rough.
                      I suggest you try troubleshooting as follows:
                      1. Run a compression check; that's easy and would eliminate burned valves, burned piston, bent pushrods, warped head, blown head gasket and worn rings as the cause,
                      2. Make sure that there are no vacuum leaks,
                      3. Make sure that you are getting a good strong spark,
                      4. Look at your spark plugs to see if they are fouled or are burned.
                      Finally, if everything else looks OK, then take the carburetor apart, clean it with carb cleaner and replace the gaskets and the needle valve.
                      If you don't like the way I drive, stay out of the bushes!
                      KI6MLU

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                      • #12
                        First of all I want to thank everyone who has tried to help me out. I've placed a bid on ebay for a compression tester...... I hope it will work on my cylinders. I'll keep you all updated as I proceed with my work so everyone can learn a tid bit or not.
                        thanks again,
                        Dave

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                        • #13
                          Russ good break down, guess I been turning them dam wrenches so long I forget what it is like to be new at it never thought about putting up a list like that. jeeper I hope it all works out for ya and you don't have to pull the head no fun in that but if you do and have a few $'s under your mattress take the head and have it reworked. That is if it has a few miles on it well let us know how it works out for ya.

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                          • #14
                            Update: I found a compression tester on ebay for $24 bucks. Ok starting from the firewall calling that plug number one and going towards the radiator being number six this was my compression readings.

                            CYCLINDER:

                            1- 110
                            2- 110
                            3- 120
                            4- 115
                            5- 120
                            6- 115

                            I'm assuming that this would eliminate anything wrong with the pistons, rods or vavles?

                            I'll post back as I proceed to the next step.
                            thanks,
                            Dave

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                            • #15
                              well that shure did come out good

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