What's the going price to get the rings in my 4.0 replaced. I got an estimate of 1,800. If that's correct, would I be better of looking for another engine. Any suggestions. Thanks
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Originally posted by imthehinkWhat's the going price to get the rings in my 4.0 replaced. I got an estimate of 1,800. If that's correct, would I be better of looking for another engine. Any suggestions. Thanks
still running strong>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
ERIK
95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!
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$1800 sounds about right for a total rebuild. If you take the engine into a rebuild shop.
I've heard to many bad storys from those "long blocks", sold at the part stores.
Nailer has the ticket, but keep in mind that you get what you pay for. If you can find out the history of the used motor.
Here in southern Ca. "Pick and pull" or other junkyards,
sorry
"Car salvage yards"
will sell you one with 30day exchange for $400 and up
:2:
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Originally posted by imthehinkWhen you say total rebuild, do you mean new bearings,piston's,pushrod etc... or just the rings?
Here the engine shop I use "Napa"
It would included new rings, bearings, gaskets and seals. crankshafted turned or polished. Cylinder bored, piston rods pressed on to new pistons. Head work should included valves being ground and head surfaced.
Push rods you can check your self, just roll them on a flat surface to see if their straight, and ends are not mushroomed.
Things you want to pay extra for is
1 New cam and lifters
2 Rods, crankshaft block and head checked for cracks.
3 Have the rotating assembly balanced, including clutch assembly/flexplate, torque converter and harmonic balancer.
4 new head and rod bolts.
5 long block assembly, a good shop will stand behind there work.
6 Cleaning, some shops charge. when I mean cleaning I mean oil galleys.
The oil passages in the crankshaft and block. if the shop puts together your engine they should do this.
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Originally posted by imthehinkthanks. one more question. Should I just get a new long block? For almost the same price I could do that. It would also save some time.
The warranty the part stores offer "in my words is the pits" You don't deal with the store you purchased it from, they give you a number to the place they deal with and its on you.
One of the long blocks I installed the manufacture "if thats what you want to call him" went out of business, the store we got the long block from would not own up to the warranty. The guy that I was doing the work for was looking for a cheap way out and it ended up costing him big bucks. Long story short, the block was cracked.
If you do decide to buy a long block. Things to ask is who pays for shipping, and how much for a core charge and who pays for the shipping.
Ask how they rebuild. Let him do the talking. If he does mention that they disassable and check for cracks in the: Block, Head, Crank, and Rods. steer clear.
Ask somebody that has done business with them. Word of mouth is the best.
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