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1997 jeep tj Aw4 swap with rubi 241 transfer case questions??

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  • TJ: 1997 jeep tj Aw4 swap with rubi 241 transfer case questions??

    Haven't been around lately or able to to take the jeep out do to working out of town the past 2 years but I'm home now and decided to get this jeep aw4 swap project done. I have to reeducate myself on the inter web on the way I was doing the install. Come to find out with my tummy tuck and the fact the aw4 is about an inch longer I might possibly have driveline angle issues. As of now with the ax15 and 241 my angle is about 21 degrees and I don't feel any vibrations. My question is if I swap the rear 241 harmonic flange out with a regular bolt on yoke how much extra clearance will it give me? That flange sticks out quite a bit and I'm pretty sure the yoke will give me over an inch but does anybody know exactly how much? I know an inch isn't much but that could make it or break it lol.

  • #2
    You can measure the yoke of my 231 if you want. Actually get a hold of Curtis he has a aw4 and a 241 transfercase in his. He should be able to tell ya what he did to get it all to work. For the wiring and what not check out Stu's website

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    • #3
      I think I have Curtis # somwhere I'll give him a call. Thing is I thought he stretched his so he wouldn't have the same issues. As far a wiring I figured out how to manually shift it with the factory xj shifter no tcu. Only need 2 diodes soldered in the loom and a button switch for OD and another for torque converter lock up. Thing is I'm wondering if lock up in any gear below OD is even worth it. I was thinking of setting up the OD button to engage the tc lockup since running around in .75 OD without lock up will create lots of heat. My 700 r4 in my supercharge truck was set up that way and never had any issues even with a fairly loose converter 2500 stall.

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      • #4
        Lockup is only in 3 and 4th regardless of when you activate the switch.
        Curtis's Jeep is still stock wheelbase as far as I know

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        • #5
          About time you came back. I changed the rear to a yoke and the 241 an Aw4 were 1" longer. Just check it at full droop. I also have a HP in the rear. My TC LOCKS up in 2nd,3rd and 4th. Helps to keep it from getting hot when going slow. Pm me if you have any questions.
          IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!

          Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!

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          • #6
            Yea sucks working out of town but has to be done. The aw4 won't lock in 1st only as far as I know. As far as the yoke Curtis will it give me more distance to the diff companion flange as compared to using the harmonic balancer flange that comes with the 241? That flange sticks out pretty far. I measured from the back of the transfer case where the seal goes to the middle of the first ujoint in the double cardan is 4 1/4 inches. I'm hoping with the yoke it is considerably shorter to center of the bolted in ujoint.

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            • #7
              Mine is 3 inches.
              IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!

              Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!

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              • #8
                Cool thanks Curtis! That will give me 1.25 inch more room which I'll lose once transmission is in. Rear driveline should work fine but I think the front driveshaft need to be lengthened as it seems to be stretched out pretty far right now.Does anyone know if there is a longer front driveshaft out of a different model jeep I could find at a junkyard? Anybody have a 32 spline yoke for 1310 joints they want to sell? If not I'll just get one from Tom woods or local.

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