nsg370 (6 speed) noise

[socal.dave]

Hey gang,

I have a noise in my transmission and I'm looking for opinions before I start throwing money at it.

I have an 05 unlimited with the 6 speed manual (nsg370). When it's cold, the jeep, not the air, and I first start it, there's a metal on metal noise, it sounds just like brake pads that are worn all the way through and are metal on the rotors (don't ask me how I know that sound..). In nuetral, if I press in the clutch, the noise changes, it get's quieter, let the clutch back out noise comes back. As it warms up, the noise starts to go away. Sometimes, it'll come back while I'm driving around but not always, sometimes there's no noise at all.

I don't have any issues shifting, it doesn't slip. I drained and filled the trans in spring but I didn't try to top it off before I dropped it off at a shop. The shop said they didn't hear the noise this morning so they're going to keep looking but I'm afraid that I'm going to end up at a transmission shop wasting $400 for the diagnostic. I'm HOPING it's the pilot or throwout bearing, a lot cheaper than a rebuild but honestly I don't know that much about transmissions.

Does anybody know if the slave cylinder is in the bell housing and is the throwout bearing part of the same unit? (that's the way it is in a ba10/50 that's in my 89 YJ. I've had to pull THAT junk several times...)

thanks for reading!

[jonah]

I am not familiar with that transmission but it sure sounds like more of a clutch/throwout bearing problem than a transmission issue. What is the milage on the current clutch parts?

[socal.dave]

That might be the factory clutch. I bought the jeep with 40k on it, now 70k so I doubt if it's ever been touched.

[aw12345]

They had a recall on the throwout bearing on those Jeeps if I am not mistaken

[6spdYJ]

That my friend, is the throwout bearing. The slave is external - which is repairable when the spring breaks. Get back to me when it happens and I'll be glad to write up how to fix it.

[socal.dave]

OK... So my jeep is at the shop, I had them replace the clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and told them to look at the flywheel but NOT resurface it. So I get a call, they got it all together and they couldn't get it started. Threw codes, p0335 p0522 (Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction and Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Low Voltage) and wouldn't start. So they called me to say they needed to either resurface my current flywheel or get a dealer part, which I don't want to get raked over the coals for.

I told them no to resurfacing even though they're sure that the current flywheel is flat and that it's too glazed to sand it down. I look at rock auto and found LUK Part # LFW193, I gave that part # to the guy and he says that's exactly the part he's using.

he says the new flywheel doesn't have all of the same teeth on it that the OEM one does and he thinks that's what's causing the CPS error and somehow because of that, no oil pressure.

So, is there an aftermarket flywheel that I SHOULD be getting?

Any help would really be appreciated.

[inVERt'D]

It was running when you dropped it off, right?

[aw12345]

You sure they plugged the Crank sensor in and didn't bust or pinch the wires when they installed the trans. Also the flywheel should maqtch all the correct grooves in exactly the same place, that is what it times the engine off. The dual code is from a busted sensor or pinched or shorted wires. The low voltage at the oilpressure sensor is your clue. Busted crank sensor or the nipped the wires between the trans bellhousing and the engine block

[socal.dave]

so this flywheel is wrong (teeth don't match), any idea where I [they] could get the right one? rockauto lists the same part number they're using.. You're the second person to suggest it was a pinched wire. Also yeah, it was running just fine when I dropped it off except for the noise.

[inVERt'D]

So what was causing the grinding noise, and what was wrong with the original flywheel?

[socal.dave]

I think the grinding is the throwout bearing. We'll see.

They said that the original flywheel has to much glazing to sand down (per the FSM). I just went in there and took pictures.. They're HUGE and if you click the link they're way HUGER

So, does this look like the glazing is too bad to follow the FSM's advice, do I need to replace it? If so, with what?!?

Here's what the FSM says.

[CODE]FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the flywheel
bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
² heat warpage
² improper machining
² incorrect bolt tightening
² improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
² foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel
clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor flywheel
scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal is not recommended. Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.

NOTE: .001-.003 is less than half the thickness of the average hair.[/CODE]


http://i.imgur.com/n9UIrHW.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/cc0THDL.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/jULSljn.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/FTHYwXr.jpg

[aw12345]

Did yoiu have a lot of clutch shudder?

I would take a roloc sanding disc to it and clean it up some. Have them reuse the old flywheel and stated on their invoice that you will not complain about clutch shudder. If it still doesn't run they pinched and shorted the crank sensor wires

[inVERt'D]

Who's working on it, Bob's Lube & Tune? To the eye, the thing looks pretty good. If you don't have a Reloc kit like Art suggested you can even use sandpaper in a circular motion. I've done that numerous times and never had a problem with a clutch job I did. You just want to scratch up the surface until it's uniformly dull and can break in the clutch disc. Last time I did one by hand (was my Jeep), I used a 3M Scotch Brite wheel to clean off all the glaze, then roughed it up a bit with some sandpaperw--worked great. Walmart sells the wheels similar to these.