D60 locking hubs

[Lawrence]

So I have these cool axles but there are some things I don't understand besides still trying to figure what components I have.

With me switching tire width, I prefer to go with a narrower rim and the typical 17x8 with 4.5" BS lets the hubs stick out 1.25" past the edge of the rim, and they could be in harms way in the rocks. I realize that with a tire mounted it won't be as bad, but this had me thinking.

Since I don't understand hubs much, if at all, I was thinking of taking them off and remounting them. No particular reason for doing it except to learn how to do it, so I looked at a couple forums and it seems to be something I can manage. After looking at my setup and doing some reading, I have a few questions:

1. Are all D60 hubs that long? Probably not cost effective, but are there any shorter ones besides the Dynatrac Stub-Hub?
   
2. Do you always have to take the hubs off to get to the brake rotors? Are there any setups where you don't have to?
   
3. What about drive flanges, are there any advantages of flanges over hubs?
   
4. Do you guys carry spare locking hubs in case of breakage? If so, could a set of drive flanges be used as spares?

These questions are purely for my own knowledge and I appreciate any how-to's or tricks you guys may have. Here is a pic of my hubs if it matters and more here



I realize that the easiest solution will be to get 8.5" or 9" wide wheels with less backspacing (~3.75 BS) and this is what I may end up doing instead of running the 10" wide wheels.

Thanks in advance for any info.

[aw12345]

For rcok trails you could swap drive flanges on they are narrower for occasional 4x4 driving and street driving use the selectable hubs

[dirtman13]

Are all D60 hubs that long? Probably not cost effective, but are there any shorter ones besides the Dynatrac Stub-Hub?
Looks normal to me. I prefer a 3.75-4.5" backspace to protect it from rocks. I'm not a fan of hummer wheels for that reason.

Do you always have to take the hubs off to get to the brake rotors? Are there any setups where you don't have to?
Yes, but it's pretty easy to do.

What about drive flanges, are there any advantages of flanges over hubs?
If your going to trailer it everywhere this is a option. I prefer locking hubs so I can drive on the street.

Do you guys carry spare locking hubs in case of breakage? If so, could a set of drive flanges be used as spares?
I do but it's not necessary. Breaking a hub will not prevent you from driving your rig.

[ROBERTK]

5 lug D60? good stuff...

Drive Flanges do Not keep you from driving it on the street... Its no different then a typical Jeep front axle, All TJ/XJ/YJ/JK have unit bearings and are alway enguaged (yes D30 or D44 but still same in this aspect). Unless you have a Spool up front, the drive flanges (or called Slugs) are no big deal. They might create a bit more drag and cost you about 1mpg, but thats the only down side. They are 1000 times stronger then a hub fuse (what breaks often in a selectable hub setup), and do protrude about 1" less, not to mention if you hit a Slug cap on a rock it likely will just get scratched or gouged. You hit a selectable hub cap on anything and you will do damage that could be really bad for the hubs, and outer stub axle.

Just FYI, the Ford outer setup is about 1" less. But I dont think they offer a 5 lug setup for the ford knuckles.

[dirtman13]

5 lug D60? good stuff...

Drive Flanges do Not keep you from driving it on the street... Its no different then a typical Jeep front axle, All TJ/XJ/YJ/JK have unit bearings and are alway enguaged (yes D30 or D44 but still same in this aspect). Unless you have a Spool up front, the drive flanges (or called Slugs) are no big deal. They might create a bit more drag and cost you about 1mpg, but thats the only down side. They are 1000 times stronger then a hub fuse (what breaks often in a selectable hub setup), and do protrude about 1" less, not to mention if you hit a Slug cap on a rock it likely will just get scratched or gouged. You hit a selectable hub cap on anything and you will do damage that could be really bad for the hubs, and outer stub axle.

Just FYI, the Ford outer setup is about 1" less. But I dont think they offer a 5 lug setup for the ford knuckles.

My reference was in having CMT's or Super Joints that are not meant for street use. That is why I prefer locking hubs. I never said you couldn't drive on the street.

[ROBERTK]

My reference was in having CMT's or Super Joints that are not meant for street use. That is why I prefer locking hubs. I never said you couldn't drive on the street.

I understand your POV. But with CTM's or even Super Joints, you can daily drive it with them always turning. You just have to be diligent as to grease the ujoints every 1000 miles or so. And on a D60 front axled rig,, I would have to assume it has 39-40" tires (ok maybe even 37's) and typical mileage is about 500-1000 miles a month. SO once a month, taking 10 min out of your day should be doable.

Or worst case, is to just pull the slugs out (most kits have this option) and when you get to the trail, take 5 min each side (at most) and just pull the 3 or 4 cap screws and slide em in, and install cap.

[Lawrence]

Chuck - Thanks for your answers to my questions. I think 3.75" BS on a 9" wide would be the ticket. My spare 8" wheel has 4.5" BS and it is not enough (see pic below). Problem is that besides Walker Evans I can't find any with that BS, they all have 4.5" or more.



Art/Chuck - At first I didn't know why you mentioned this since I thought it would be like a typical TJ front axle, turning all the time. But I now understand your comment as it relates to specific u-joints.

Robert - Yes, Tera CRD60R 5x5.5... I get it now and thanks for your input, with ARB and standard u-joints (1480?) I guess there should be no worries or issues running slugs. The Jeep is not a daily driver, but it sees a fair amount of pavement since the closest trails are at least a 6hr drive from me (also a reason for ditching the 40s). About the Ford setup being shorter, that must be it because I was looking at the Currie setup and it appeared much shorter to me.

[dirtman13]

Wow! that does poke out a bit. Raceline has a 3.25" BS wheel that may work.

[aw12345]

If you have the selectable hub you can both , they are fairly easy and quick to swap.
The slugs in the front fort street driving do make a difference in milage and available power. Is the main reason my bud Fred swaps his out between put put trails and Hammer trails. Robert has slugs for a pretty good price, I have both, since the hubs do stick out with ummer2 rims. Slugs are about 1/2" tall, unless you run narrow very rocky trails I would leave the selectable hubs on and swap to the drive slugs when you decide to go nuts

[ROBERTK]

Well the scrub on such a low BS wheel is a big concern for those that really push what the D60 can offer in hub strength, turn radius and creates higher loads on the hub bearings. One reason you will see more rigs try to get a high BS wheel, rather then a lower BS #.

As for swapping hubs to slugs. Just get a good set of slugs and when you are not on the trail you pull the main slug out and put them in a zip lock baggy in the glove comp. When get to any trail that might need them, just pull the 3 or 4 cap screws and slide them in and your good to go.

That Currie setup your seeing I believe is a F450 unit bearing setup they use, that can take either the slugs or hubs, but is based on the newer Superduty knuckles, with ball joints. Your CRD60 might have the right knuckles, but you would have to basically get everything else to convert and not very cost friendly.

[dirtman13]

Well the scrub on such a low BS wheel is a big concern for those that really push what the D60 can offer in hub strength, turn radius and creates higher loads on the hub bearings. One reason you will see more rigs try to get a high BS wheel, rather then a lower BS #.

I see no concern. Plenty of people run a low backspacing with no issues. Including mine. My 60 has a better turning radius then my 30 did, never had any troubles with the bearings and I push my 60.

[ROBERTK]

I see no concern. Plenty of people run a low backspacing with no issues. Including mine. My 60 has a better turning radius then my 30 did, never had any troubles with the bearings and I push my 60.

Not to be a ass (daym I say that all to often these days), but if you talk to those that are purpose built they will always try for a positive off set wheel over a low BS one, If thier build can incorporate it. Is it a concern, it was in our build, and enough to have Raceline, when we called and talked to our guy there about our build, recommend thier new monster 2 in the 4.75" BS for our KOH stock class even.

just my .02 on that...

[aw12345]

Not to be a ass (daym I say that all to often these days), but if you talk to those that are purpose built they will always try for a positive off set wheel over a low BS one, If thier build can incorporate it. Is it a concern, it was in our build, and enough to have Raceline, when we called and talked to our guy there about our build, recommend thier new monster 2 in the 4.75" BS for our KOH stock class even.

just my .02 on that...

You are right about that the center of the tire width should in theory line up with a line that you would draw through both balljoints or king pins on a kingpin axle. Does everybody do this? Hell no, but I am pretty sure OEM car and trucks get designed this way or very close to that principle

[Lawrence]

Robert - The pic above is my 17x8 with 4.5" BS and the selectable hub hangs out by 1.25", but if I can find a 17x9 wheel with 3.75" (or 4") BS it would put the hub inside the wheel by 0.5" (or 0.25") if my math is correct. While I agree with you on not wanting too small a BS, I think this might be ok for the recreational Jeeper

Everyone - I really appreciate the quick lesson about selectable hubs and slugs, definitely good stuff. I have looked at some sites like this one for how-to's, anyone got anything better? Also, is there a specific spanner locknut socket to get or would it depend on what I have?

[aw12345]

Robert - The pic above is my 17x8 with 4.5" BS and the selectable hub hangs out by 1.25", but if I can find a 17x9 wheel with 3.75" (or 4") BS it would put the hub inside the wheel by 0.5" (or 0.25") if my math is correct. While I agree with you on not wanting too small a BS, I think this might be ok for the recreational Jeeper

Everyone - I really appreciate the quick lesson about selectable hubs and slugs, definitely good stuff. I have looked at some sites like this one for how-to's, anyone got anything better? Also, is there a specific spanner locknut socket to get or would it depend on what I have?

There are some different sockets for Dana 60 hubs so take it apart so you can figure out which one you need