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Doing my rear main seal

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  • Doing my rear main seal

    Goob, glob, blop , blop, ah! my eye! What a mess dude. Been doing it in pieces the past few days (day 1- drain oil, day 2- remove oil pan, day 3-remove main bearing after rubber oil pan gasket comes in mail, etc.). So I go to install my upper seal and somehow it tears (definition Somehow- I get impatient and force it ). So I go to Kragen and they have to order it after refund on warranty item .
    See ya'll tomorrow.
    “Lead me, follow me, or get out of my way. ”
    -Gen. George S. Patton Jr.

  • #2
    Put some white lithium on it next time
    1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
    My Jeep

    Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:

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    • #3
      I've read some write ups that say to put soap on the outside of the seal and oil on the inside of it.Whats that about?
      “Lead me, follow me, or get out of my way. ”
      -Gen. George S. Patton Jr.

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      • #4
        maybe the soap has some kind of mosturizer that softens the seal a little bit to make it not so brittle.....
        B R E T T
        87 XJ 3" lift, 31s-thats all thats worth mentioning

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        • #5
          Yes, soap is supposed to just make it a bit slippery but not create a "pre-oiled" path for leaks to occur. You can try to do it that way, but the thing will likely end up covered in oil anyway... It's tough enough to hold onto the thing without worrying about which side you are touching with which finger. Try putting some grease around the inside (it won't run around like oil, but will have the same effect), and liquid dishsoap around the outside (a very thin layer will do). If it was that tough going in, you will probably need both.
          1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
          My Jeep

          Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:

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          • #6
            Right on, makes sense. Thanx Rick.
            “Lead me, follow me, or get out of my way. ”
            -Gen. George S. Patton Jr.

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            • #7
              So I filled up my crankcase yesterday, started it up, checked for leaks, drove around, everythings good. I gooped the heck out of the rear main seal the second time around and was more careful sliding it in but it went smoothly. I put a 1 piece rubber oil pan gasket on it too. Gonna drive it around some more today to make sure everythings kosher.
              “Lead me, follow me, or get out of my way. ”
              -Gen. George S. Patton Jr.

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              • #8
                hello, ok im doing my rear main as well, first we could not get the top seal out...so we just put the bottom one in and slapped it back togeather....ahhh driving down the road and oil seems to be comming from every where... even out the dip stick... wtf any clues?? think it was the berring by the seal?

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                • #9
                  If you didn't replace the top seal, chances are the mating surface between the two seal halves is not sealed. I think it would be nearly impossible to get silicone to stick well enough to an old seal/old silicone to actually prevent a leak. To get the top seal out, use some picks to pull on it and a screwdriver or punch to push on it. You will probably have to tap on one end of it until you can grab it with some pliers.
                  1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
                  My Jeep

                  Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    What we did to try and get it out was, I got this set of Brass punches and tried to punch it out but ended up bending all the punches and the seal never moved. Umm what is this pick your talking about?

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                    • #11
                      If it didn't move with a brass punch, it's in there pretty good. Did you pull the rear bearing cap?
                      1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
                      My Jeep

                      Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by rick
                        If it didn't move with a brass punch, it's in there pretty good. Did you pull the rear bearing cap?
                        yea i removed the rear berring cap and tried it from the driver sied but all it did was dent in a tiny bit but mangled the brass punches.

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                        • #13
                          Did you loosen the other main caps?I would think you could pull it out with a dental pick.
                          "Good Girls and Dirty Jeeps" a song by Opal Justice http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xRtRE45OVQ

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                          • #14
                            I only loosened the rear cap.
                            “Lead me, follow me, or get out of my way. ”
                            -Gen. George S. Patton Jr.

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                            • #15
                              Rear main seal change

                              This article is pretty good. Good luck!
                              http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/index.asp
                              Ford 9" rear, Dana 44 front, Detroit No spins F/R, 4.56 /1
                              Bulletproof front bumper, Body Armor rear bumper
                              MPFI 258ci I6 by Clifford
                              35" BFG AT, 4 wheel disc brakes
                              4.5" Superlift, 2" body lift
                              Bad to the bone.[SIZE=4][COLOR=DarkRed]

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