sleeving YJ Dana 30

[6spdYJ]

I finally found a 30 with 4.10's! It seems two years ago people were giving them away, now they want to sell them as if the Jeep is still attached and gold plated. I got it for $100. Oh yeah!
Now to the question... Since I'll be using the panhard, external sleeving isn't much of an option. I can get 2"OD x .120" DOM very easily to drive in the passenger side. My thought is to just add a bit of support for the three piece passenger side tube. Would it be worth the effort? Or, just shut up and run it?
Aside, OU812 found the NAPA seal 11800 to put in the passenger side tube without machining so you can swap in TJ shafts. It turns out that Applied carries a double lip Viton seal with single spring for less. Its' P/N 471765.

Another question, I've found that the '89 and '92 unit bearings, calipers, rotors and pads are different. Are the knuckles different? I'd rather just swap my setup onto these "new" knuckles. Anybody know?

Yet another question... Apparently the '87-'89 unit bearing is rebuildable. Does anybody have experience with this? I'm thinking it may be to my benefit to keep these. I like the idea of re-packing occasionally instead of replacing when the bearings fail.

[Jeeperator]

Just run it, If it breaks its cheap to replace. When I did my dana 30 hp I found out 97 and 2000 brake rotors and unit bearing are different from each other also. Sealed bearings will go for over 100 miles with out failure. Had 130,000 on mine before I replaced them and they were still good. Thinking of doing a 6 speed in my tj any tips?

[6spdYJ]

Thanks for the input. I don't know about cheap. It took a long time to find a complete axle for $100. I'm still pinching myself. I'm only on 32's and have a fairly reserved right foot, but the whole reason for the TJ shafts is the insurance factor, so that's where the sleeve idea came from. Since I don't have any history on this axle other than I can see it had a Rust-Oleum rebuild at some point, I just wonder if it would be worth the effort.

When you put the 6 speed in, you'll find the CPS is the wrong style and position on the '05 and up. It's a unitized bellhousing, so you can't swap it without major machine work. Don't waste your money on a relocating kit or a new flywheel and CPS. PM me and I'll give you the template I made from my original bellhousing. All you need is a drill, a dremel, a file and a 6x1mm tap. The only other thing you may have to do is extend your reverse light switch wiring. My AX-15 was on the passenger side and I had to run it to the driver's side. I don't know if you'll have to bend the shift lever. I had to make mine from scratch.

Back to it, are the knuckles the same? IIRC they are. Can anybody confirm? Thanks.

[avjeepfreek]

Just Run it!

I assume you got the D30 High Pinon, I ran my stock D30 HP with 4.10's for years and never had an issue. I finally installed 4.88's in mine and put in a cable actuator for the collar and got rid of the vacuum. I swapped the stock panhard for a JKS telescoping track bar and at one point I didn't hook it back up after a run and drove for several weeks with it unhooked and never noticed a difference on the street so, I removed the panhard altogether and have never looked back! I run 33's with a lot of lift and don't see any difference from when I had the track bar installed. My D30 has served me well and I have put it through it's paces, I've never had a problem with the knuckles, Unit Bearings or any other working part of the front end! with the exception of the drag link, which I bent on Mottino Wash and replaced with a heavy Duty steering set up. I will eventually do what most have and go with the one piece Chrome Molly front shafts and a lunchbox type locker and run the piss out of it until it breaks!!!

IMO, the D30 is a strong little axle and you'd be wasting your money trying to beef it up with sleeves! Add the one piece Chrome Molly front shafts and a lunchbox locker and run it!

Just my :2:

Scott

[6spdYJ]

Thanks Scott, I'm putting in TJ shafts. All YJ's are HP. The '87-'89 are goofy with different calipers, pads, rotors and unit bearings. The '95 has the 760 ujoints, so upgrading only requires swapping the inner shafts (not including the CAD section). Since I have the TJ's, that's what it'll get. I just need to measure the unit bearings to see if I have to swap the knuckles.
I had a completely different experience with the panhard. Mine pushed the axle to the side as the frame kept going straight and then suddenly unloaded all of the energy in the opposite direction. I'll keep it! What I did do though, was to sleeve and extend it so it goes to the original bracket. That extender doohickey is a sloppy joke at best. With only 2 1/2" springs and 5 1/2" shackles, bump steer is minimal - my wifes JK is far worse.

[aw12345]

Instead of sleeving you could make a truss or spend 100 bucks on a XJ HP axle and weld some spring perches on it

[Jeeperator]

This is what I did to my polished tirdy hp to reinforce the long side also welded the tubes to the housing. The spot welds in the holes didnt seem sufficient. Also reiforced the lower control arm brackets with strap steel and welded currie plates on it. All this didn't need to be done but since it was out and the steel and welding was free I said what the heck. You are going to do a single tj axle right and not the 2 piece with the collar?

If do the 6 speed I will have to meet with you and borrow that template.

[curtis]

Nice job Beau. A hp 30 doesn't get any better.

[6spdYJ]

Instead of sleeving you could make a truss or spend 100 bucks on a XJ HP axle and weld some spring perches on it

I appreciate all the input. Art, I thought about that, but there are a few limiting factors for me. Since mine is a DD, I have to do it fast, and since I don't have a welder at home, I have to be able to bolt on. I really value you guys' opinions on this. As soon as I get the seal, I'll throw in the TJ shafts and slap it in.

[Jeeperator]

Thats a ruffstuff cover on my polished turdy with a 1/2" thick flange. Talk about beefy,it help reinforce the housing also.

[6spdYJ]

Thats a ruffstuff cover on my polished turdy with a 1/2" thick flange. Talk about beefy,it help reinforce the housing also.

Cool. I may look into stuff like that in the future. I'm just glad to be getting back to actually having a 4wd Jeep. Oh, as far as borrowing the template... Borrow? What am I gonna do with it? It's yours. Just let me know when you need it.

[aw12345]

I appreciate all the input. Art, I thought about that, but there are a few limiting factors for me. Since mine is a DD, I have to do it fast, and since I don't have a welder at home, I have to be able to bolt on. I really value you guys' opinions on this. As soon as I get the seal, I'll throw in the TJ shafts and slap it in.

You sleeve it, you still have to weld the sleeves in place unless you make them a press fit and draw them in and then , they stlill should have a plug weld or 2 to keep the sleeves in place

[6spdYJ]

It may seem hillbilly, what I was thinking was two or three 3/8-24 set screws along the top. I'm not concerned about spinning it, I was just wondering about adding some security to the three piece tube. I would not do on the bottom, to keep it from tearing upward from the set screw. I also wouldn't do front or back to avoid flexing sideways while turning when bound up. This of course, until I could get to a welder. Seems from the input though, if it ain't broke... go on a trail run till it is

[6spdYJ]

Well, all said and done it took about 10 hours total. The knuckles were fine between the years. Apparently the '99 and up use a different unit bearing. I just put my u/b's, rotors and calipers on it. Slam-dunk. Thanks to OU812 for doing the great TJ shaft write up last year, Great88 for having a picture of his front u-bolt flip, and Art for the deal on the shafts and introducing me to the site. You guys ROCK! ...Just in time for $4 gas - yeeha!

[freewaydan]

I did this to my 89 YJ,

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/yjd3...jconvert-1.htm