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TJ Rubicon shim kit.

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  • TJ Rubicon shim kit.

    Ok, trying to do this on the cheap. I have maybe 30k on my gears and bearings. Chipped two teeth on my rear pinion. Alloy sent me a fresh set of 5.13's. I only need an inner pinion bearing and shims. I am pretty sure I can get just the new bearing.

    *Any one know if I can just order a set of shims for pinion and carrier to set the backlash? Or should I just stop fooling around and do a master install kit?
    Build it right the first time.

  • #2
    Originally posted by snydercj7 View Post
    Ok, trying to do this on the cheap. I have maybe 30k on my gears and bearings. Chipped two teeth on my rear pinion. Alloy sent me a fresh set of 5.13's. I only need an inner pinion bearing and shims. I am pretty sure I can get just the new bearing.

    *Any one know if I can just order a set of shims for pinion and carrier to set the backlash? Or should I just stop fooling around and do a master install kit?
    I got pinion shims and the thick carrier shims, for the fine adjustment you would use some thin shims under the carrier bearings. Most install kits will not come with the thick shims that go on the outside of the carrier bearings. Those puppies aren't cheap either. If you figure out what you need I can see if I can hook you up.

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    • #3
      I used a G2 kit from 4wheelparts. It was $25. Let them know you're a vet & they'll pull 10% off. If you use this kit, use a micrometer. The shims are die cut so they have a ridge that makes measurement with a caliper difficult. How'd you chip the teeth?
      God forgives, rocks don't
      -sons of thunder

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      • #4
        I still have the carrier shims in the axle from the first time it was set up, but left the rest of them from the install kit at the guys place. Not sure if there is going to be that much of a variance between the old 5.13's and the new 5.13's. But I do not have the pinion shims.

        I ended up messing up the teeth on a line through Mottino. The last 6 months before it happened I just kept taking lines that maybe I should not have. What was strange was I did not think I was doing any thing that bad to put that kind of stress on the gears when I felt the pop.

        Thanks for the input guys, I will get back to you and let you know how it goes or if I can use your parts Art.
        Build it right the first time.

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        • #5
          Seems the Rubicon 44 has a special shim set, or that is what I was led to believe. The ring and pinion are different for this diff, so it made sense. Any way just ordered a new master install kit and that will give me some extra bearings any way with every thing else that was needed. My Jeep will be back on the road Saturday, ready to hit the trail after 500 miles of break in! Finally!
          Build it right the first time.

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          • #6
            As I told you before I have the thick shims that go on the outside of the carrier bearing races, still for fine adjustment you shim with thin shims under the carrier bearings

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            • #7
              The only difference between the TJ Rubicon 44 and others is that the Rubicon ring gear uses 7/16" bolts instead of 3/8". They are still 7/8" long. The only other thing that matters is that the Rubicon ring gear is what they call "thick". It stands out farther from the carrier and happens to line up perfectly with the 3.73 and numerically lower carriers, so you can gear these lower without having to buy a new carrier. You just drill out the ring gear bolt holes.
              God forgives, rocks don't
              -sons of thunder

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              • #8
                Nope wrong, the housing is machined wider to accept the rubicon locker and it's shimmed from the outside of the bearings with thick shims close to 1/8" thick. That being said you can put regular carriers and ARB's or Detroits or whatever in there. As long as you use the spacers/ thick shims to take up the extra space. Yes when you use a Detroit, ARB or any other locker or a regular carrier with the Rubicon gears there is a good change you have to drill the bolt holes out for the ring gear, however later Dana 44 axles tend to use ring gears with 7/16 varrier bolts. I know LJ's do, that is where the axle in my Jeep came from.

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                • #9
                  Thats how I adjusted my 44 when I set it up. I used the big shims on the outside of the bearings to check the pattern. Once I got it right pulling it in an out at least 4 times (I had to readjust the pinion depth also because of the different carrier). I pulled the bearings off and used the proper shims under the bearing. . BTW thanks art for the use of your puller couldn't of done it without it. I am glad I did it myself this time around the guy I paid to do it the first time used the wrong sized shims on the outside of the bearings. It worked but still it wasn't right.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by aw12345 View Post
                    Nope wrong, the housing is machined wider to accept the rubicon locker and it's shimmed from the outside of the bearings with thick shims close to 1/8" thick. That being said you can put regular carriers and ARB's or Detroits or whatever in there. As long as you use the spacers/ thick shims to take up the extra space. Yes when you use a Detroit, ARB or any other locker or a regular carrier with the Rubicon gears there is a good change you have to drill the bolt holes out for the ring gear, however later Dana 44 axles tend to use ring gears with 7/16 varrier bolts. I know LJ's do, that is where the axle in my Jeep came from.
                    Thanks Art, won't be the last time I'm wrong.
                    God forgives, rocks don't
                    -sons of thunder

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