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Upgrading my Dana 35

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  • #16
    Disadvantage with the 35 is the c-clip axles. If you break an axle and don't have trail spares it's gonna come out unless you hold it together with a hi-lift or pipe. With a 44 the axle's held in place by the bearing retainer and you can nurse it off the trail. The dana 30 can be beefed up significantly with the super 30 kit. Axles are 30 spline and utilize larger u-joints and eliminates the two piece axle and vacuum disco. Next biggest thing after those axles would be 30 spline RCV's. Always remember, JEEP is an acronym for Just Empty Every Pocket.
    "I started out with nothing and still have most of it left."

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    • #17
      I corrected my post. I have a "Non C-Clip" Dana 35. I've carefully and slowly driven 20 miles with a broken axle to get home. It broke in the middle not at the splines, so no shrapnel.

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      • #18
        Thank you everyone for all the great responses. There is so much to think about now. So I think I am going to go with either the super 35 conversion or the Ford 8.8. I am leaning towards the 8.8 due to the fact that it has disk brakes on it. I called the local junk yard and they quoted me $144 for the Ford 8.8 and $25 for each caliper. Does this sound like a good deal or should I keep looking. If I were to go with the 8.8 would I need to upgrade anything in it besides re-gearing and and putting an ARB locker in it? Does it have any weakness' that I should fix before wheeling? I just don't want to regret any decision that I make. Again thank you.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by carmaniac57 View Post
          Thank you everyone for all the great responses. There is so much to think about now. So I think I am going to go with either the super 35 conversion or the Ford 8.8. I am leaning towards the 8.8 due to the fact that it has disk brakes on it. I called the local junk yard and they quoted me $144 for the Ford 8.8 and $25 for each caliper. Does this sound like a good deal or should I keep looking. If I were to go with the 8.8 would I need to upgrade anything in it besides re-gearing and and putting an ARB locker in it? Does it have any weakness' that I should fix before wheeling? I just don't want to regret any decision that I make. Again thank you.
          [COLOR="Sienna"]Understand that the 8.8 is still a C-clip axle when it comes out of the Ford Explorer. Superior's super 88 kit changes that and is most useful when limping off a trail. I am not aware of another company that makes a C-clip eliminator kit for the 8.8 axle. Sounds like your price is about average, be sure to ask about any warranty in case you have some kind of hidden problems with it. Some people weld the axle tubes to the diff housing to prevent an axle tube from spinning on you. Just a suggestion. [/COLOR]
          [COLOR="darkred"]"Death Smiles at Everyone... Marines Smile Back."
          Adopt-a-Trail Member.[/COLOR]

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          • #20
            If you actually stress the 8.8 so hard that you have a c-clip fall out, you have bigger problems.
            God forgives, rocks don't
            -sons of thunder

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            • #21
              One caveat to the 8.8 on a YJ is that the tube diameter is much larger than the 35. In spring over configuration, this will effectively lower the back of the vehicle because the spring is farther from the axle centerline. Either a slightly longer shackle, or an extra leaf will counter this. If you are spring over, it will raise it and you will have to adjust the front height. Beefy either way.
              God forgives, rocks don't
              -sons of thunder

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              • #22
                I like the 8.8 because it is pretty strong in stock form. And if you need to upgrade some more there is a supper 8.8 kit with c-clip eliminators and alloy shafts.
                Those left standing
                Will make millions
                Writing books on ways
                It should have been
                -Incubus "Warning"

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                • #23
                  Now with which ever rear end I go with should I be running the axle in the stock position as axle over the leaf spring? Or while I have everything apart should I change it so the leaf spring rides on top of the axle. I assume this drastically affect the drive shaft angle but would i have to get a longer driveshaft for changing the axle to underneath.

                  Also with the ford 8.8 will I have to get a new driveshaft? Or will the distance stay the same as the stock Dana 35?

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                  • #24
                    i bought my 8.8 from pap. it was 190 out the door with warranty.
                    m.o.r.e. sells an 8.8 swap kit for a yj for 150$. they also sell the yoke that adapts the jeep drive shaft to the ford axle for 40 bucks. most people who do this swap usuallt add the sye and a cv shaft. if you already have a sye and cv shaft i believe it willbe the same. worst case scenario is u have a drivline shop shorten it a hair. do not waste your time or money on the 35 they are junk thats why nobody wants them.

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                    • #25
                      I would change to spring over. BUT you'll want to be adding a anti-wrap bar very soon. Flat leafs flex better. And most likely you will have to have a driveline shop shorten it a bit. The pinion is longer on the 8.8 than your D35. You will be able to bolt it up and drive it to the drive line shop but before you go off-roading you will want it shortened. My local shop charges $150 for this.
                      Those left standing
                      Will make millions
                      Writing books on ways
                      It should have been
                      -Incubus "Warning"

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                      • #26
                        hey scott u have an 8.8 in ur yj now dont u? i know yj are spring under. mine is spring over so im sure it make a difference. either way the 8.8 is the way to go. only thing i would do to it is weld the tubes to the housing.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by OU812 View Post
                          I would change to spring over. BUT you'll want to be adding a anti-wrap bar very soon. Flat leafs flex better. [COLOR="Red"]And most likely you will have to have a driveline shop shorten it a bit.[/COLOR] The pinion is longer on the 8.8 than your D35. You will be able to bolt it up and drive it to the drive line shop but before you go off-roading you will want it shortened. My local shop charges $150 for this.
                          [COLOR="Sienna"]Scott, you mean he'll want to get the driveshaft shortened right? The axle itself is a tiny bit narrower than his front D30. I have seen some folks add spacers to try to get the axle width back to normal. So far I've not done that, but I have a Super 88 for mine, just haven't installed it yet. And if Blaine reads this post, he's gonna skin me alive.[/COLOR]
                          [COLOR="darkred"]"Death Smiles at Everyone... Marines Smile Back."
                          Adopt-a-Trail Member.[/COLOR]

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                          • #28
                            Right, by driveline I mean driveshaft. My YJ was spring under and I never used spacers. If I wanted to widen the axle any I would use superior's c-clip eliminator. It widens the track width to exactly math he Dana30.
                            Those left standing
                            Will make millions
                            Writing books on ways
                            It should have been
                            -Incubus "Warning"

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                            • #29


                              I went and picked a Ford 8.8 from a really cool guy out in West Hills. The process has now started and I am really jacked up and can't wait to get started. Now to order parts. It didn't come with calipers or the brackets to mount them. Does anyone know where I could find some disk brake brackets to mount the calipers. I was thinking of just buying stock calipers from Autozone. Are there better websites to go to that anyone knows of that would offer better prices for these parts.

                              Also what are everyones thoughts on gear brands to buy my 4.88 from?

                              Also if I get the ARB locker for it what is the best solution for the air compressor. Should I buy the ARB compressor or are there better options? I am going to be putting an ARB in the front as well so it would have to power both of them and be able to air up my tires.

                              SUPER EXCITED

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                              • #30
                                If at all possible, find some used and if needed, get them from AZ or whatever. You will avoid the outrageous core charges. Check with RobertK on here for gears. Also look at jeepaholics .com for a "no bind" traction bar for spring over.
                                God forgives, rocks don't
                                -sons of thunder

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