engine backfire and popping in the headers

[neilbyrd]

Well detonation is gone now so maybe thats why the temp stayed down this time.

[neilbyrd]

Well it is back. All the same problems. Went up the canyon with a bunch of Jeeps and had to turn around and go home. This time the Jeep got up to 210 when it happined. Last time it only went up to 180 but ran fine (it had just snowed the day before). I think it has more to do with the engine temp than I had thought before. I am stumped anyone have an idea. Maybe I should just cut my losses and do the engine swap.

[Lumpy Grits]

Set ing. timing to factory specs. before anything else.
Be sure that you don't have a "lean-out" condition due to a vac. leak.
BOTH of the above will cause an over heat issue.
Try a tank of Shell prem. fuel
Do you use a fan clutch with your rad?

Respectfully,
LG

[Jeeperator]

Did you ever look up the instructions for the coil and find out what kind of ballast resistor it really needs? Maybe the resistors needs to be higher resistance and you got the coil hot or burnt up another set of points again. 210 is not Overheating ! ~90 percent of vehicles on the road today run 210 degree all day long with no issues. You can also try changing back to the original coil you pulled out before you put that accel in. The problem was fixed and ran perfect before with the ballast resistor and new points maybe it just came back again because of somthing we overlooked.

[neilbyrd]

I use a electric fan 3000cfm
I have tried shell premium.
No vac leaks.
I looked for instructions on accel website and hey dont have any.
I am thinking about trying that platnronics conversion.
I am also seriously entertaining the idea of swapping in the dodge 318 that I have sitting here.

[Lumpy Grits]

How many amps does that ele. fan pull.
How many amps does your alt. put out?
Is it a "pusher" fan or a "sucker"?
Cheers,
LG

[neilbyrd]

The fan is a sucker black magic extreme it pulls 19.5 amps. Not sure of the alt output.

[Lumpy Grits]

You maybe sucking all the ele. for your fan and not having enough left to run your Jeep.
I have seen this before as your ing. works harder(read, pulls more amps)under load(pulling a long hill)than on flat ground.
I would go back to an OEM fan setup.......
Respectfully,
LG

[6spdYJ]

Run the fan on a relay pulling power straight from the BATT terminal on the fuse block, There's no way it will pull the battery too low to power the ignition system.

[curtis]

Could it be a bad Distributor guys?

[Lumpy Grits]

It don't take much to out "pull" a OEM alt. IIRC I think OEM was something like 40-45amps. Remember that your trying to recharge the battery and run all the other stuff too.
Those ele. fans are amp suckers and IF you run one you should upgrade your alt. and wiring.
BTDT for friends of mine.
NEVER saw the need for those ele. fans as a mech. fan WILL out pull most ele. fan CFM on any given day.
The OP should load test his battery and alt. for both volts and amps. Amps is where it's at for an alt.
Respectfully,
LG

[Jeeperator]

Thing is the coil only need ~9 volts to work. So even if the fan is pulling alot of amps the ignition should still work. Example ignition is still firing when your starter is pulling over 500 amps and the alt isn't charging anything yet. Whats is the model# or part# of the coil ? I will google it and see what i can find out. I would check the points and see if they are burnt and possibly change the coil out. Why would it run perfect for a whole day after installing the ballast resistor and new points then all of a sudden not.

[Lumpy Grits]

I think the OP is running a points type dizzy and points don't do well with higher amp load with upgraded ing. sys. as they(points) are just a "switch" and will "blow" pits in the contact area.
Hope the OP is running at least a .05 mfd condenser with those points.
Respectfully,
LG

[neilbyrd]

The fan is running straight from the battery through a relay to the fan motor. I cant run the mechanical fan because I dont have enough room for it.


The thing about it is that on the long hill I was climbing it got up to 210 and was acting up but on the way back down it got back down to 180 and started running better.


What do you guys think about the plantronics conversion for the dizzy, for points eleimination.

[aw12345]

First of try repeating the problem by running the engine at 210 degrees, block part of the radiator or have a helper turn the fan on and off to keep the temp at right around 210 degrees. Then see if it backfires by just revving the engine sitting still or drive it. Once you can duplicate the problem when ever you want too you can try figuring out if it's fuel or ignition related. If it does this sitting still it's most likely ignition related. If it has to run pretty much under full power to get it to act up it's a toss up
If all else fails come visit me in the near future and I will figure it out for ya. I had a similar problem with a motorhome way back in time that did this and it ended up being the valve lifters collapsing when it got good and hot. This would take more that an hour of hard driving to get it to misbehave drove me nuts.