And there goes the pinion yoke...

[red baron 13]

Update, Part Deux

Ok. Got one strap off pinion yoke. Going to sawzaw the other strap so that I can get a better grip on strap bolts. In the process, I noticed I've got a piece of leaf broken off. Talked to Wes @ Scotty's -- he says if the bolts are hitting the driveshaft, the angle of the pinion may be off. I'm thinking this is due to leaf issue So, I'm gonna pick up a u-joint and straps, then, take the leaf off and have it re-built. In the process; I'll mount the new shocks I bought last week. Finally, gonna put the rear on jacks and see what happens when the driveshaft spins at slow speed. The guy at Sams Offroad said I didn't need the Anti-Wrap Traction Bar that Butch just installed - I'm not big or powerful enuff to need it. Lastly, my goal is to NOT have to remove and replace the pinion yoke - for the reasons Bobo and Neil mentioned. And, I still have the new Aussie I'm gonna throw in the front! Looks like I'll need alota Goop...

[RAT]

OK I have a yoke off a D30. What is the spline count on your pinyon input shaft?

[6spdYJ]

D30 and D44 yokes are the same spline count as D35. You will need to get the D30/D44 pinion seal. The 35 seal is different to fit the 35 yoke.

[RAT]

D30 and D44 yokes are the same spline count as D35. You will need to get the D30/D44 pinion seal. The 35 seal is different to fit the 35 yoke.

Cool beans. I may have the seal too. Joe, you wanna pick this up right way or can you wait till I head up to Big bear? I will probably go this weekend.

[red baron 13]

Kurt -

I can wait till the weekend -- I have plenty of other things to keep me busy. If you're goin up the 38, I can meet you in Mentone. Let me know...thanks!

[Mtbikbob]

Ok. The guy at Sams Offroad said I didn't need the Anti-Wrap Traction Bar that Butch just installed - I'm not big or powerful enuff to need it. ..

Now why do I find that so funny.
Simple test,
On the driveway, no jacks, have someone sit at the helm, put it in drive or 1st, let out clutch so it drags some and of course holding the brake so jeep doesn't move. You look at the driveshaft and see for yourself if the driveshaft/axle is rotating up.

Just saying, check it out for yourself.
Best of luck, see you out there.
BobO

[neilbyrd]

With mine all I had to do is back up and take my foot off the gas in low range in the drive way and my son told me that the pinion was going up, But mine is a manual so I dont have and slip through a torque converter. Maybe mine is magnified by the 40" iroks.

[TipsE-Z]

Joe is this what you text about? If tear into this let me know. I could probably give you a hand with it as I have that Chrysler ASE manual for our Jeeps

[red baron 13]

And the saga continues...

Have a place that's going to re-build my leaf. I think that is lending to the pinion angle shifting under torque stress. New question: a guy suggested I get the driveshaft re-balanced. Its @ $130 bucks. Is that necessary and worth it? Or, if I'm that concerned, should I just buy a new one? The driveshaft is definitely getting pinched, there's score marks at the base of the driveshaft yoke from where it's come in contact with the u-joint strap bolts. So again, please opinionate (is that a new word?) as any thoughts are most welcomed!

[neilbyrd]

If the driveshaft needed to be rebalanced than you would feel alot of vibrations at speed, and if it was real bad it would wipe out seals and bearings.I think your problem is the driveshaft yoke hitting the strap bolts.

[Mtbikbob]

no, I dont believe you need a driveshaft balance. You have a wrapping problem.... oh, I said that already. I'll keep quiet.

[red baron 13]

Ok, thanks guys. Just trying to do things once. I'm gonna fix that u-joint, then have someone drive it -- so I can see what the rear diff/axle is doing.

[Mtbikbob]

If you need a hand...let me know, you're not that far away.
BobO

[2blk2drs]

2. Do I replace pinion yoke and if so, re-gear while I'm dancing @ the pumpkin patch?

3. As Dirtman suggested; strengthen the rear -- do I buy used from a junkyard? I have priced new from places -- lookin' @ $2500. And, what would u suggest? D44? Ford 8.8? Obviously, the most affordable way is best, but I don't wanna just throw $$ at it either...

If when you decide to regear, look for a 8.8 or XJ 44, the 29 spl 8.25 is even a decent axle, no sense dumping cash into a D35, since all you have to weld is perches/ shock mounts, unlike the TJ crowd

[ROBERTK]

Exactly correct, before removing the nut you need to mark the nut and the pinion shaft with a line to match up together and count the threads that are sticking out past the nut.

I dont recommend this. The difference of 8-10inch/lbs and 50-60inch/lbs can be less then 2deg of pinion nut tightening. So the thickness of the line you mark can mean the diff of good or bad.

Its not that hard to replace really. I suggest you DONT use a impact to put it back together!

Simply remove the old pinion nut, use a hammer or pry bar to remove old yoke..
Nows the easy time to spend that 9-14$ on a new pinion seal, and pull the old one and replace it. Put some grease on the seal lips.
Using a new (or used if you have to) yoke, clean the seal surface very well if used, and apply a little grease. Slide the new yoke on. Then using ONLY a typical 1/2" rachet, install a NEW pinion nut, and tighten down till you cant any further by hand, give it hell. Unless your a Small guy or Excessivly big guy, you will be fine. The chances of crushing a D35 sleeve any further by hand with a 1/2" ratchet is very slim for the average guy. BUt you should be able to get it tightened enough to be good.