I have to visit the smog Nazis soon. any advice for passing things to check???
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Make sure its HOT!!! Real HOT! The hotter the better. you can always get the stuff you dump in the gas tank. I think it just makes it run HOT!
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Shhh!
A little secret from a past undercover smog *^$@% himself....... D 3 N a T u R 3 D A 1 C 0 h 0 l Remember, Smog is all about chemistry. Chemistry is all about combinations and chains of atoms. Change the chain and the calibrated sensor doesn't recognize what it's seein', cause it's not on the bad list. Computers only see and do what they are programmed to. Nothing more, nothing less. Elementry my dear watson. Make sure to add only 1 pint for every 5 gal gas or bad things will happen to the rubber parts in your fuel system. Get it at any REAL drug store that has stuff like days gone past. A mom and pop place preferably. Do NOT use wood, grain or rubbing as these contain lots of H2O and will not work to do what's required. Make sure EGR, Timing, and all emissions equipment are in place and functional. This includes a gas cap that the valving working in it. A HOT car with a HOT cat. say driven down the freeway for a while is a good thing and new gas not 6 month old paint thinner in the tank. A fresh oil change is crucial to lowering emissions so make sure it's had less than 500 mi on it (even under 200 if the vehicle burns oil or has very high miles). Gapped plugs with good ign. system parts a clean and functional PCV valve and orifice tube. Make sure you have a CLEAN air filter. No manifold vaccum leaks or exhaust leaks, non clogged cat or muffler and a good O2 sensor that is not tired or lazy from many a miles on it. The right temprature thermostat IE: 195 deg and NOT some 160 thing you use in the desert runs. The computer has to be in closed loop and it won't do this if the temp never gets to what it considers warm. Any one of these items not to snuff, and they have the potential to flunk you or you won't pass for equipment violations anyway.
Everybody's favorite chemist,
Rick" [COLOR="DarkGreen"]Life-is-Good![/COLOR] "
Rick W6RE
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Originally posted by OllllllO
. Make sure EGR, Timing, and all emissions equipment are in place and functional. .
Everybody's favorite chemist,
Rick“Lead me, follow me, or get out of my way. ”
-Gen. George S. Patton Jr.
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EGR is that those metal pipes coming from the cat?? and retard it how much, factory says 12 before i thinkLast edited by JeepJunkie; 05-07-04, 03:22 PM.B R E T T
87 XJ 3" lift, 31s-thats all thats worth mentioning
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EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) is the tube that comes from the exhaust manifold (or header) back to the intake. This reduces NOx by introducing low oxygen gas back into the intake tract. It also costs power The valve is usually vacuum controlled and mounted on the intake manifold. The tubes coming from the cat are the reburn air injection tubes. These take high oxygen air to the cat (one before the cat, one on it) in order to improve the burnout of carbon monoxide.
Factory spec on the 6 cyl is 9 deg BTDC, I'm not sure on the 4 cyl. You should have a sticker on top of the grill inside the hood that gives the vacuum routing and the timing specs.1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
My Jeep
Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:
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