Front Drive Shaft Removal?

[Schmo]

So in an effort to track down the squeeking sound that I've been noticing lately, I tried to remove the front driveshaft as it sure sounds like I have a case of the angry sparrows forming. Got the four bolts off the front end at the diff, no problem . . . went to remove the bolts on the other end on the TC side and I can't get them to budge . . . worried I'm going to rip the heads off them. Gave them a good once over with PB blaster, and plan to give it another try tomorrow. I was over at Dave's helping him install his rockers, so straped up the front part for the drive home to make sure that it was the issue, and sure enough no squeek, so cool now I know I need to rebuild the DS, but I can't get the damn thing off!!! HELP!!! Is there some trick to it or tool that makes it easier?

[scherf68]

I don't know if you tried this but soke the double cardan with a penetrating oil to get rid of the angry sparrows. Dirt and sand can get caught up there and needs to be removed. This was suggested to me like two years ago from a forum and it worked, I sprayed wd40 on mine. Those sparrows have not come back in two years. Might work for you, might not.

[inVERt'D]

I just took my drive shafts off the other day. On those very bolts of which you speak, I applied PB Blaster, looped one wrench over another for leverage, and cranked away (wearing eye protection, of course). The leverage did the trick for me.

[bails85]

get a little u joint knuckle 3/8 drive with a short socket and use an impact very lightly on it i just did this 3 day ago. mine were stuck like a bitch. make sure u use a 6 point socket though. 12 will probably strip it. mine were a 5/16. or use a box end wrench with a piece of pipe on the end of it for leverage. all else fails warm it up with a torch then try. ive had my share of wrenching.

[Schmo]

What is a U-Joint knuckle?

Is 5/16 or 8mm smaller? Both fit, I can't tell the difference...seems like using the smallest thing that fits would be best.

[inVERt'D]

5/16" = 7.9375mm, so theoretically, that would be the smaller of the two. How the tolerances of your tools affect that small difference is another thing.

[Schmo]

Thanks for the help guys . . . I got it out. I think it was a combo of PB Blaster over night and sunlight that did the trick. Now I've got to decide to buy a new one, rebuild this one, or grease the heck out of it and give it another try. You could get it to sweak right at the center ball by hand, but after a bit of WD40, it seemed nice and smooth...not sure how long that'll last. It's got 47K miles on it, half of which are with a 4" lift.

[mrchips]

Schmo, I replaced my Front DS with a unit from Tom Woods, and it was $349, with all serviceable u-joints and CV joint. Measure the length with the rig on the ground, from the flat surface of the yoke to flat surface of the opposite yoke, and then give them those measurements, and they will make it up for you. Ck out the specs and such on their site.
And now I keep the old one as a back-up

[Schmo]

Schmo, I replaced my Front DS with a unit from Tom Woods, and it was $349, with all serviceable u-joints and CV joint. Measure the length with the rig on the ground, from the flat surface of the yoke to flat surface of the opposite yoke, and then give them those measurements, and they will make it up for you. Ck out the specs and such on their site.
And now I keep the old one as a back-up

I was thinking about doing that too, but $350 . . . ouch . . . I just spent almost $200 last month getting TW to rebuild my rear DS . . . and am in the process of giving the Jeep a good maintaince overhaul, which has set me back at least a couple hundred just in fluids and plugs. Leaning more towards rebuilding the stocker at this point...not sure though.

[aw12345]

A good auto parts store, a driveline shop or Tom Woods can sell you the centering ball piece which is all you need is about 40 bucks and servicable.
Get a U joint press or ball joint press and go at it.
Here this link will help get you on your way, might even have the parts numbers you need

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driv...iveshaft-5.htm

[Schmo]

Thanks Art . . . that was the link I was looking at . . . they also have a link to the Rubi part numbers if you go to Napa. I guess the Rubi shaft has a bigger CV and takes 1330's vs the 1310's. I thought I was going to get off easy and just borrow Josh's press and give it a shot, but his is broke, so now I'm starting to lean more towards a new shaft, but then again buying the tool to have would probably save me more money in the long run! Hard to make up my mind. I noticed a bit of play where the spines on the stock shaft are . . . is that fine or should that be the kicker that makes me buy a new shaft vs. attemping the rebuild? :dunno: Also, both Tom Woods and Coast Driveline seem to be in the same ball park as far as price, I've had great experiences with TW, but Coast is local and the shaft they put together for Josh looked really nice. Any thoughts on if either is better than the other?

I can't wait to get this done . . . my Jeep is riding so beautifully right now. I just replaced both trackbar bushings, and the pins for my discos and wow . . . you'd think you were driving a sports car . . . well maybe not, but what a difference . . . no more clunks and it's cornering much better. Almost done with my tune up too. Flushed the front diff today and it looks great, so did the fluid that came out. Did the oil/filter, air filter, spark plugs (NGK), rotated the tires, checked the brakes and belt. I'm planning on flushing the TC and Rear Diff tomorrow, and am going to call the dealership tomorrow to order Tranny fluid so I can flush it too and a gasket for the Throttle Body so I can clean it out as well. Hopefully I can stop wrenching for a while and spend a bunch of time on the trail instead!!!

[aw12345]

A little bit of play on the slip yoke and the splines is ok, nothing to worry about

[xthread]

driveshaft

picking up my front ds today .total rebuild with supplied servicable u joints with new tube and balance 149.00. powertrain industries 7532 anthony ave garden grove 92841 1-714-901-3611.good guy,s fast turnaround too.

[Materdaddy]

I bought a coast driveline driveshaft for my rear and it is quality. Can't speak of the differences between TW and Coast, but I can tell you I've had no problems (yet) with my driveshaft.

[Double AA]

Also, both Tom Woods and Coast Driveline seem to be in the same ball park as far as price, I've had great experiences with TW, but Coast is local and the shaft they put together for Josh looked really nice. Any thoughts on if either is better than the other?

Coast Driveline is a quality shop that only uses quality components.