ringand pionon change "lil help "

[aw12345]

If you are just changing the carrier, there is a pretty need trick that arb uses. It makes very quick work of setting up the new carrier provided you stay with the same gear set.
So here goes take the carrier out, remove the ring gear set the carrierwith bearings and races one race down on a flat plate. measure from the plate up to the face where the ring gear would mount. Write this measurement down. Flip the carrier over and repeat the same procedure also record the total height.
Record both those measurements. Setup the new carrier exactly to the same measurements, start with the original shims, this should get you close. If you copy the original measurements, then the backlash and preload should be exactly the same as it was with the old carrier

[inVERt'D]

Sounds beautifully simple, Art. What about changing the bearing races? Should they just lock right in the same place as the old ones (Dana 44)? Obviously I'm not a gear man, but I've built engines. Coming from the school I do, I would never want to put new bearings on old races.

[aw12345]

The races for the carrier come out with the carrier so yeah piece of cake to replace those. |would leave the pinion and its bearings alone unless its to loose/ has play or the seal leaks, no need to disturb that

[OU812]

If you are just changing the carrier, there is a pretty need trick that arb uses. It makes very quick work of setting up the new carrier provided you stay with the same gear set.
So here goes take the carrier out, remove the ring gear set the carrierwith bearings and races one race down on a flat plate. measure from the plate up to the face where the ring gear would mount. Write this measurement down. Flip the carrier over and repeat the same procedure also record the total height.
Record both those measurements. Setup the new carrier exactly to the same measurements, start with the original shims, this should get you close. If you copy the original measurements, then the backlash and preload should be exactly the same as it was with the old carrier

Thats and awesome idea. Provided my pinion is not damaged I will be able to test this out this week.

[Materdaddy]

Thats and awesome idea. Provided my pinion is not damaged I will be able to test this out this week.

Won't work for you... you are going to be changing your ring gear... (right Art?)

[aw12345]

Scott provided you are going to regear sometime in the future, I would try to find a used ring and pinion at a you pick you save or something or from one of the Jeep boards from somebody that regeared their axle. On the Junk yard I would take all the bearings races and shims and stick it in your axle. If the stock gears are marked with a + 1 and the gears you found are marked with say -3 you would add 0.004" and that would correct the pinion depth.
It's just a bummer that aftermarket gears don't use this way of marking gears makes life very easy

[BROTHERS4X4]

Give us a call we might be able to help you

[inVERt'D]

The races for the carrier come out with the carrier so yeah piece of cake to replace those.

I knew that...I just forgot it long enough to ask a stupid question...

[Materdaddy]

Scott provided you are going to regear sometime in the future, I would try to find a used ring and pinion at a you pick you save or something or from one of the Jeep boards from somebody that regeared their axle. On the Junk yard I would take all the bearings races and shims and stick it in your axle. If the stock gears are marked with a + 1 and the gears you found are marked with say -3 you would add 0.004" and that would correct the pinion depth.
It's just a bummer that aftermarket gears don't use this way of marking gears makes life very easy

Art, Do all manufacturers mark the gears with the pinion depth cheater numbers or is that intended at Dana Jeep axles?? (Reason I ask, Scott runs a Ford 8.8 rear axle.)

[OU812]

Give us a call we might be able to help you

I would but you are an hour away from me. Im in Oceanside.

[aw12345]

Those plus and minus marking can be found on most oem gears. some have no markings which means zero

[Materdaddy]

Thanks for the info Art!

[inVERt'D]

Yeah, thanks Art! I was hoping to do something like that thinking it was kinda like cheating. It makes me more confident knowing that it's a legit method. Of course, I'll still be using the marking compound, etc., but that should make it a LOT easier!

Matt, I remember you were thinking of this method in principle a few months back when Scott's Trash Loc was falling apart. Seems that you were on the right track, but I kinda shot you down. It will still be trickier than putting the same diff in, and will require some specialized tools, but I think it should be reasonably easy. I apologize if I unduly discouraged you guys.

I'm going to use a dial indicator with a magnetic base on a sheet of 3/16 steel. The pin on the dial indicator will point up and measure the distance from the sheet in thousandths. I'll also use a 1" micrometer to measure/ check my shims. I'll verify the mesh pattern with the marking compound. Art, feel free to add/ delete/ shoot me down (better now than later).

I'd be more than happy to help you and Scott, but I am quite a drive from you both, and my Jeep isn't fun on the 15 S...still have to tackle some front-end/ steering issues.

Scott, I still think the Aussie would do you more good in the front (if you must choose). Your rear has a LS, but your front is still open. In another thread someone said something about a rear locker making more sense due to weight transfer to the rear on climbs. IMHO that's exactly why a rear locker is not as important: on climbs the rear often has better traction, but your front gets light. Also, if you wheel in the dirt (think the "badland" areas in Ocotillo Wells and Truckhaven), I think you'll find the front locker/ rear LS to be advantageous. You can make more "built" rigs look clumsy and stupid. That said I'm planning on replacing my worn-out LS with an Aussie in the next week or two.

[Materdaddy]

Yeah, thanks Art! I was hoping to do something like that thinking it was kinda like cheating. It makes me more confident knowing that it's a legit method. Of course, I'll still be using the marking compound, etc., but that should make it a LOT easier!

Matt, I remember you were thinking of this method in principle a few months back when Scott's Trash Loc was falling apart. Seems that you were on the right track, but I kinda shot you down. It will still be trickier than putting the same diff in, and will require some specialized tools, but I think it should be reasonably easy. I apologize if I unduly discouraged you guys.

I'm going to use a dial indicator with a magnetic base on a sheet of 3/16 steel. The pin on the dial indicator will point up and measure the distance from the sheet in thousandths. I'll also use a 1" micrometer to measure/ check my shims. I'll verify the mesh pattern with the marking compound. Art, feel free to add/ delete/ shoot me down (better now than later).

I'd be more than happy to help you and Scott, but I am quite a drive from you both, and my Jeep isn't fun on the 15 S...still have to tackle some front-end/ steering issues.

Scott, I still think the Aussie would do you more good in the front (if you must choose). Your rear has a LS, but your front is still open. In another thread someone said something about a rear locker making more sense due to weight transfer to the rear on climbs. IMHO that's exactly why a rear locker is not as important: on climbs the rear often has better traction, but your front gets light. Also, if you wheel in the dirt (think the "badland" areas in Ocotillo Wells and Truckhaven), I think you'll find the front locker/ rear LS to be advantageous. You can make more "built" rigs look clumsy and stupid. That said I'm planning on replacing my worn-out LS with an Aussie in the next week or two.

David, no worries. Scott tackled the trashloc repair by simply rebuilding the clutch pack. Scott is still working out this repair. I'm sure he'll post up a little information when it's all said and done.

[OU812]

I agree that a locker in the front is much better. Once you lose traction in one front tire you are just pushing your other tire into whatever rock you are trying to climb over. I plan on replacing my LSD carrier with and open carrier when I pull these gears. The open carrier has more options for a lunchbox locker. I can’t do it at the same time unfortunately but I will have the options when I am done.