Rear Axle Shaft Questions?????

[blackZZR]

Your other consideration would be to do a full float conversion. If you flat tow and have lockable hubs front and rear it is pretty sweet. Also, if you do not want to put the selectable hubs in the rear, you could do drive flanges. The advantage of a full float is that the axle shaft is only driving the wheel, not supporting weight; and should you break an axle, you just pull it out.

this is a good option, but remember that Warn makes 2 different hubs, A light duty one that uses 5 on 4.5 and a heavier duty that uses 5 on 5.5, if you do it go with the heavier option even though you will have to buy new rims and get the front hubs redone.

[Double AA]

I've used the Warn HD hubs on the front of my D44. I broke several axle shafts and U joints, but never a hub.

[Drewminator]

I have the Dana44 hubs on the rear that get hammered with 90% of the torque, that's why i keep breaking them

I've used the Warn HD hubs on the front of my D44. I broke several axle shafts and U joints, but never a hub.

[Drewminator]

Thanks for the comment Jim. That would possibly be an option. I'm just very thankful that there is a solution to my hub issues and being able to use the free floating chromoly axle shafts that are currently in my Dana44.

this is a good option, but remember that Warn makes 2 different hubs, A light duty one that uses 5 on 4.5 and a heavier duty that uses 5 on 5.5, if you do it go with the heavier option even though you will have to buy new rims and get the front hubs redone.

[Drewminator]

Its 5 on 5.5 Looks like i can get the heavy duty set, but it will cost me $350

this is a good option, but remember that Warn makes 2 different hubs, A light duty one that uses 5 on 4.5 and a heavier duty that uses 5 on 5.5, if you do it go with the heavier option even though you will have to buy new rims and get the front hubs redone.

[pdw]

Everybody has their preferences, but have you considered a high pinion 9" from Currie or the others? Don't have to worry about breaking flanges or hubs. The housing and axle tubes don't need to be trussed in order to put up with bigger tires.
I went with a Currie 9" and I am very happy with my choice. They welded on the spring perches for me and so it a bolt in affair.

P.S. Never been a big fan of Dana 44's - even on the front axle - when I break my Dana 30, it's a 9" front axle that will take it's place.

[Drewminator]

Thank you Paul for your opinion. I will highly consider a 9' If I break the D44. I am just curious why the D44 is not recommended. Any info on D44's that i should know about as far as its strongest and weakest points would be helpful in the future.

Thanks-

Everybody has their preferences, but have you considered a high pinion 9" from Currie or the others? Don't have to worry about breaking flanges or hubs. The housing and axle tubes don't need to be trussed in order to put up with bigger tires.
I went with a Currie 9" and I am very happy with my choice. They welded on the spring perches for me and so it a bolt in affair.

P.S. Never been a big fan of Dana 44's - even on the front axle - when I break my Dana 30, it's a 9" front axle that will take it's place.

[mrblaine]

Drew,
IMHO I beleive that all the major aftermarket Mfgs make good parts. Alloy stood behind thier product for me on 6 different occassions (all bad Ujoints, not axles) and never once charged a fee. I know Warn is good about that as well. So it comes down to this: Name brand recoginition (which name brand do you like the most) and whether they have great customer service. And then of course you have to do a good job putting it together...

I'd encourage you to try and repeat that process since Omix took over Alloy USA. I know of a few already who are not getting taken care of on warranty issues since it changed hands.

Personally, I've spent way too much time behind, under, and in front of broken rigs on the trail with Alloy USA axle shafts both front and rear to ever recommend them to anyone.

Last trip out was a 4 hour debacle trying to free a busted section of stub out of the carrier that eventually required 3 winches to accomplish. That's not anomalous either.

We had a nice gentleman come down from Washington to wheel the KOH race, first trip blows a stub on an XJ. End of his wheeling until compatible unit bearings could be found because he had to drive it back to camp without a stub and ruined the unit bearing.

Fast forward to a later trip in Moab, another in the group does just about the same with the same result.

Another buddy bought into the hype and price. Takes a short run up Claw Hammer, which is by no means an over the top trail. Breaks a rear Alloy USA 44 shaft, trip is over and he's riding with a buddy for the rest of the weekend.

Were it me, I'd get some Superior Evolution Rear 44 shafts and carry a set of stockers on the trailer. Everything else is pretty sketchy quality wise.

Or put another way. Based on how easy I've seen some of the Alloy stuff break, I'd run stock Dana 44 shafts first.

[Double AA]

I agree. Alloy had a good reputation then they had their problems and closed. Omix then picked them up. I wouldn't buy anything that Omix had their hand in.

Moser's calls their offroad line the "Max". They offer two day turn around. Unfortunately they use 4140 and the shafts are hardened prior to cutting the splines.

Early Superior shafts had a good reputation and then they had problems. Their new Evo shafts are gaining a good reputation. I ran the earlier Superior shafts and they lasted about five years in a front D44.

Currie uses blanks from a couple of manufacturers, Superior being one. Their shafts are cut and splined after they're hardened. I've run, and broke several of them. Currie honored the warranty each time. To be fair, I don't think the D44 was up to the modifications I made to the rest of the Jeep or the areas I took it.

Some companies back-cut their shafts, some don't. Some have better "ear" designs, hardening process, quality of material and quality control. There really is a difference between a set of 4340 shafts that sell for $800 and a set that sells for more than twice as much.

[RAT]

I'd encourage you to try and repeat that process since Omix took over Alloy USA. I know of a few already who are not getting taken care of on warranty issues since it changed hands.

Personally, I've spent way too much time behind, under, and in front of broken rigs on the trail with Alloy USA axle shafts both front and rear to ever recommend them to anyone.

Last trip out was a 4 hour debacle trying to free a busted section of stub out of the carrier that eventually required 3 winches to accomplish. That's not anomalous either.

We had a nice gentleman come down from Washington to wheel the KOH race, first trip blows a stub on an XJ. End of his wheeling until compatible unit bearings could be found because he had to drive it back to camp without a stub and ruined the unit bearing.

Fast forward to a later trip in Moab, another in the group does just about the same with the same result.

Another buddy bought into the hype and price. Takes a short run up Claw Hammer, which is by no means an over the top trail. Breaks a rear Alloy USA 44 shaft, trip is over and he's riding with a buddy for the rest of the weekend.

Were it me, I'd get some Superior Evolution Rear 44 shafts and carry a set of stockers on the trailer. Everything else is pretty sketchy quality wise.

Or put another way. Based on how easy I've seen some of the Alloy stuff break, I'd run stock Dana 44 shafts first.

Another long story that emphasizes the need for skinny pedal control. I won't list all the Hammer trails I've dragged my rig through, but sufice it to say my Alloys still look like they did the day I installed them... almost I now have stock D44 axles in the front and still have the 44 Alloys rear. When they go, Superior for sure.

[aw12345]

What to say. Superior is 2 miles down the road I break it, I get a new one right then and there. Oh yeah I got spares on the Jeep front and rear and a tool to knock the rear stub out. I hate ruining a fun day of wheeling

[dirtman13]

Another long story that emphasizes the need for skinny pedal control.

True dat.:thumbs_up


Alloy USA front and rear no problems yet. Although I'm not running 44's.

[mrblaine]

Another long story that emphasizes the need for skinny pedal control.

When you get to the Hammers, as you know, there is a minimum level of torque required to traverse the trails, some more, some less, but always a minimum.

The ones I've seen break were just getting over the trails, no binding, no heroics, no stupid lines.

[Drewminator]

Thank you all for your input on how I am going to pursue my Dana44 build. My 44 came out of a 90 Jeep Cherokee and with that, I will be installing Superior axle, with Evolution 30 spline axles shafts and its ARB to go with it. I think that should get me through mostly everything with just the right amount of pedal.

[Elusive]

Thank you all for your input on how I am going to pursue my Dana44 build. My 44 came out of a 90 Jeep Cherokee and with that, I will be installing Superior axle, with Evolution 30 spline axles shafts and its ARB to go with it. I think that should get me through mostly everything with just the right amount of pedal.

Here is another idea.
if you are buying an ARB and axles at the same time, why not order the RD 106 ARB. It's a 35 spline 1.5" ARB for 35 spline axle shafts. I broke a superior AND an Alloy USA axle shaft in my rear 44. I installed the 35 spline shafts and used them EXTREMELY hard with no failure or even visible wear.
The shafts were $340 and the ARB was $790, but it's not that much more $$ than you were going to spend anyway, and its a TON cheaper than building some other axle.