Rear Axle Shaft Questions?????

[Drewminator]

I am looking to buy some rear Dana44 axle shafts and would like to get some input on which ones are the hands down strongest. I would rather spend the money and not have to worry if they will break on the trail

[RAT]

I am looking to buy some rear Dana44 axle shafts and would like to get some input on which ones are the hands down strongest. I would rather spend the money and not have to worry if they will break on the trail

Well, get ready cuz the opinions will be flying here shortly! I run Alloy Cromollys. Been in the Jeep for 4+ years. No problems. I think I paid $340.00 shipped. Warn, of course. I've heard Summers Brothers might have Jeep axles coming out. That would be bitchin. Let the opinion poll begin...

[Drewminator]

LOL! Thanks Rat! That’s why I love this site because you get the pros and cons of everyone’s opinion on what others have experienced and seen on the hardcore trails.

Well, get ready cuz the opinions will be flying here shortly! I run Alloy Cromollys. Been in the Jeep for 4+ years. No problems. I think I paid $340.00 shipped. Warn, of course. I've heard Summers Brothers might have Jeep axles coming out. That would be bitchin. Let the opinion poll begin...

[blackZZR]

I am with you Rat, the opinions are going fly here. However I will step up and say, most of the major aftermarket axles are worth the money, So no matter what you choose, a manufacturer with a good rep will be a good axle.

[Drewminator]

Awesome! Thank you! That is now two for two

I am with you Rat, the opinions are going fly here. However I will step up and say, most of the major aftermarket axles are worth the money, So no matter what you choose, a manufacturer with a good rep will be a good axle.

[ECV Jeep]

Okay Kurt....You warned about opinions, so here is my 2 cents.

I think highly of the Warn shafts, and have heard nothing but good things about the Mosers. To build the ultimate Dana 44, use a 35 spline carrier with Chromo Shafts and hub flanges (the next step down would be somethng similar to a "Super 44 Kit" with 33 spline axles). However, that is an expensive option that will cost nearly as much (or possibly more) than a Dana 60 or 9 inch set-up.

For 4+ years I have run Warn shafts with no problems. Either with 35 inch or 37 inch tires and very low gears. Just stay off the skinny peddle and don't "hop" too much and you should be fine.

Consider your ultimate goal, for often a few dollars saved up front cost more in future upgrades.

[Drewminator]

Good tip! Thank you Brian

Okay Kurt....You warned about opinions, so here is my 2 cents.

I think highly of the Warn shafts, and have heard nothing but good things about the Mosers. To build the ultimate Dana 44, use a 35 spline carrier with Chromo Shafts and hub flanges (the next step down would be somethng similar to a "Super 44 Kit" with 33 spline axles). However, that is an expensive option that will cost nearly as much (or possibly more) than a Dana 60 or 9 inch set-up.

For 4+ years I have run Warn shafts with no problems. Either with 35 inch or 37 inch tires and very low gears. Just stay off the skinny peddle and don't "hop" too much and you should be fine.

Consider your ultimate goal, for often a few dollars saved up front cost more in future upgrades.

[Drewminator]

Ok, here is another question? What are the differences between USA Alloy and Superior Alloy shafts? Are Superior shafts stronger or is the price just higher? What about Currie or Moser? What is the scoop with their axle’s shafts? Please jump in and express your opinions.

[Ol Man]

Your other consideration would be to do a full float conversion. If you flat tow and have lockable hubs front and rear it is pretty sweet. Also, if you do not want to put the selectable hubs in the rear, you could do drive flanges. The advantage of a full float is that the axle shaft is only driving the wheel, not supporting weight; and should you break an axle, you just pull it out.

[RAT]

Ok, here is another question? What are the differences between USA Alloy and Superior Alloy shafts? Are Superior shafts stronger or is the price just higher? What about Currie or Moser? What is the scoop with their axle’s shafts? Please jump in and express your opinions.

Drew,
IMHO I beleive that all the major aftermarket Mfgs make good parts. Alloy stood behind thier product for me on 6 different occassions (all bad Ujoints, not axles) and never once charged a fee. I know Warn is good about that as well. So it comes down to this: Name brand recoginition (which name brand do you like the most) and whether they have great customer service. And then of course you have to do a good job putting it together...

[Drewminator]

Rat, thanks for putting things into more perspective. I fully understand now. Thanks buddy!

Drew,
IMHO I beleive that all the major aftermarket Mfgs make good parts. Alloy stood behind thier product for me on 6 different occassions (all bad Ujoints, not axles) and never once charged a fee. I know Warn is good about that as well. So it comes down to this: Name brand recoginition (which name brand do you like the most) and whether they have great customer service. And then of course you have to do a good job putting it together...

[Drewminator]

Rich, thank you for your input, it was much appreciated. I already have a free floating Warn kit in the rear and I keep breaking the hubs. I do not flat tow it and just tired of having issues with the hubs, that's why I just want standard axle shafts and not deal and worry about it. I don't feel relaxed knowing if I'm going to break on the trail again since it seems that the hubs are my weakest link.

Your other consideration would be to do a full float conversion. If you flat tow and have lockable hubs front and rear it is pretty sweet. Also, if you do not want to put the selectable hubs in the rear, you could do drive flanges. The advantage of a full float is that the axle shaft is only driving the wheel, not supporting weight; and should you break an axle, you just pull it out.

[Ol Man]

Rich, thank you for your input, it was much appreciated. I already have a free floating Warn kit in the rear and I keep breaking the hubs. I do not flat tow it and just tired of having issues with the hubs, that's why I just want standard axle shafts and not deal and worry about it. I don't feel relaxed knowing if I'm going to break on the trail again since it seems that the hubs are my weakest link.

If you are breaking Warn hubs, then I would go to drive flanges. You should not have a problem there, especially if you do not flat tow. I think that would be a better solution than going back to standard axles and a heck of a lot cheaper.

[Drewminator]

YES! Drive flanges would work and do the trick. You are the man Rich! Thank you for your knowledge in solving my problem and my pocket book.

If you are breaking Warn hubs, then I would go to drive flanges. You should not have a problem there, especially if you do not flat tow. I think that would be a better solution than going back to standard axles and a heck of a lot cheaper.

[Ol Man]

YES! Drive flanges would work and do the trick. You are the man Rich! Thank you for your knowledge in solving my problem and my pocket book.

You are welcome. I run drive flanges on my CJ7 with the Warn full float.