I need some opinions...

[irwinwheeler]

I can get a rubicon d/44 front housing for $800. and just put my own internals in it. which i would have to buy anyway to do a super 30. is the housing worth the $800?

[womb raider 940]

I have seen whole axles go for 12 to 1500. but is stock axle

[inVERt'D]

I've seen the new JK Rubicon D44 complete front axle, including rotors, as low as the $1,200s. This is a stronger unit than the TJs had; has a stronger pinion than any other production D44; comes with electrically actuated locker; is high-pinion, is generally stronger and better engineered than the TJ/ LJ D44.

It is a few inches wider, has a 5-on-5" lug pattern, whereas the TJ has a 5-on-4.5" lug pattern; and will require R&R of shock and control arm mounts.

$800.00 is not that great a deal for what you're looking at. If you pass that one up, you're sure to find another at least that cheap.

[pdw]

I've seen the new JK Rubicon D44 complete front axle, including rotors, as low as the $1,200s. This is a stronger unit than the TJs had; has a stronger pinion than any other production D44; comes with electrically actuated locker; is high-pinion, is generally stronger and better engineered than the TJ/ LJ D44.

It is a few inches wider, has a 5-on-5" lug pattern, whereas the TJ has a 5-on-4.5" lug pattern; and will require R&R of shock and control arm mounts.

$800.00 is not that great a deal for what you're looking at. If you pass that one up, you're sure to find another at least that cheap.

I agree on the pricing opinion! From what I have read, the new Dana 44's appear to have issues with the knuckles and axle tubes bending. It is suspected that this is because of the extra width of the axle.
Let me look around, but from what I saw, I believe that the tube diameter measurements for the new "factory" Dana 44 were the same as the tubes on the Dana 30.
If so, where is the advantage in that? Theoretically you could build your current Dana 30 housing to be stronger.

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=13042

[inVERt'D]

I agree on the pricing opinion! From what I have read, the new Dana 44's appear to have issues with the knuckles and axle tubes bending. It is suspected that this is because of the extra width of the axle.
Let me look around, but from what I saw, I believe that the tube diameter measurements for the new "factory" Dana 44 were the same as the tubes on the Dana 30.
If so, where is the advantage in that? Theoretically you could build your current Dana 30 housing to be stronger.

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=13042

Yeah, I've heard that about the new Dana 44s too, and like you, I suspect it's because they're wider; that may also be compounded by people in big heavy JKs running larger tires on them--37s are nothing for a JK 4-door. So you sleeve the axle and gusset the Cs, truss it up, whatever.

While I think there's plenty you can do with a Dana 30, I have to admit that the design of the Dana 44 center makes it an inherently stronger differential. A larger ring gear has more teeth meshing than will a smaller ring gear; that distributes the stress of torque more evenly, which means better wearing and less likelihood of grenading. Whatever might be true of the axle tubes, it seems that the new D44's center section is pretty beefy, and that's the foundation of the whole thing--everything else you can beef up yourself.

[pdw]

Yeah, I've heard that about the new Dana 44s too, and like you, I suspect it's because they're wider; that may also be compounded by people in big heavy JKs running larger tires on them--37s are nothing for a JK 4-door. So you sleeve the axle and gusset the Cs, truss it up, whatever.

While I think there's plenty you can do with a Dana 30, I have to admit that the design of the Dana 44 center makes it an inherently stronger differential. A larger ring gear has more teeth meshing than will a smaller ring gear; that distributes the stress of torque more evenly, which means better wearing and less likelihood of grenading. Whatever might be true of the axle tubes, it seems that the new D44's center section is pretty beefy, and that's the foundation of the whole thing--everything else you can beef up yourself.

I would agree with your statement about the larger ring gear and the diff housing being stronger!

But, take a look at page 66 of the March issue of Four Wheeler magazine. Burnsville Off Road is already offering an upgrade kit for the new Dana 44. It includes 1/4 inch thick axle sleeves and six gussets for the C's.

For my purposes, the new Dana 44 is not an upgrade. I prefer to play in the rocks, and I have made the same type of mods to my Dana 30. I have upgraded the axles, replaced the unit bearings, welded gussets to the upper C's and welding 1/8" thick tubing to the axle between the diff housing and the CAD housing.

Now if I could find another job, I could afford to pay for the gas to wheel!

[pdw]

If you buy a "new" Dana 44, add this into your budget.



I don't believe that the newer, wider Dana 44 axles in the JK Rubicon or from what I understand the Dana 44's in the original Rubicon's are an upgrade. Reason behind my opinion, the axle tubes do not appear to be any stronger as they have the same diameter and tube thickness as the Dana 30.
If your heart is set on a Dana 44, I would look at the axles from Solid http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart...Categories.asp or even a Dana 44 built by Currie.
Personally, I will move to a Currie HP 9" when I break my current Dana 30.

[inVERt'D]

I'm not trying to push any kind of D44--or any axle for that matter--on anyone, I was just trying to give a comparative example to someone who seems interested in buying a Dana 44. I have a lot of fun with my pitiful little Dana 30.

You seem kinda stuck on those axle tubes; it's well known that Jeep Dana 44s have the weakest axle tubes out of probably any production Dana 44s. So beef them up, like you did to your Dana 30; the difference is that the actual differential--the heart of the thing--will be a lot stronger than your D30's. Not only that, the axles themselves are going to be a lot stronger than a stock Dana 30, and you can still upgrade them. Sure it would be simpler just to drop a few grand on a "real" upgrade--if you have that kind of money to blow. As you seem to know, some of us have to take things a step or two at a time.

[pdw]

I'm not trying to push any kind of D44--or any axle for that matter--on anyone, I was just trying to give a comparative example to someone who seems interested in buying a Dana 44. I have a lot of fun with my pitiful little Dana 30.

You seem kinda stuck on those axle tubes; it's well known that Jeep Dana 44s have the weakest axle tubes out of probably any production Dana 44s. So beef them up, like you did to your Dana 30; the difference is that the actual differential--the heart of the thing--will be a lot stronger than your D30's. Not only that, the axles themselves are going to be a lot stronger than a stock Dana 30, and you can still upgrade them. Sure it would be simpler just to drop a few grand on a "real" upgrade--if you have that kind of money to blow. As you seem to know, some of us have to take things a step or two at a time.

I hear what you are saying, and I agree!
The Dana 30 does have it disadvantages. But, I think that it's a great axle to build, learn and then move upwards from as your tire size increases or the level of wheeling difficulty is at the point where you are breaking things.
I personally don't have an "ax to grind" for a particular brand. I personally have never been a fan of the Dana 44. It has always seemed to me to be a compromise between strength and weight.

[inVERt'D]

I hear what you are saying, and I agree!
The Dana 30 does have it disadvantages. But, I think that it's a great axle to build, learn and then move upwards from as your tire size increases or the level of wheeling difficulty is at the point where you are breaking things.
I personally don't have an "ax to grind" for a particular brand. I personally have never been a fan of the Dana 44. It has always seemed to me to be a compromise between strength and weight.

Yeah, I suppose which axle is best for your rig may boil down to compromises between strength, weight, ground clearance, expense, etc.

I agree that the Dana 30 is probably underrated. I suspect that's due in large part to ignorance on the part of wheelers. You wouldn't believe how I've seen people race the motor and dump the clutch while their axle is bound up in some stupid position. Dude--don't blame the axle, blame your dad for shagging his sister and passing down that mutated mechanical retard gene to you.

[GP4Play]

LOL :0 What if you broke a Rockwell,on your 1st day of class ?Sorry.....memories of a Pvt.There are so many axles to chose from now,and this is why I'm on this site.I've ran a lot of old stock axles but it was mud,snow,and sand in Ore.Here you have tough em up for the rocks.So is it tire size or torque to decide the center sec size?

Dennis

[irwinwheeler]

ok...

Basicly im going from 35"s to 36"s, trails with alot more rocks than the jeeps used to ,and lockers. i can, : A keep the 30, do 4340-30 splines w/ 30 spline locker,gears and gussets. or :B spend extra money and be a lil' tight for a while, get the 44 and do all that stuff the 44...??? oh and i am a experianced wheeler so i now how to message the skinny petal.. lol

[blackZZR]

finding a high pinion D30 is another option, they would have stronger gears as they are turning the correct direction. With a super 30 kit this is a really strong option that is small.
I have run D30s for years and love the clearance they have, I have had little if no problems with them. I have a D44 in the Rubi up front and seem to have to remember where it is more as it is larger and I drag it a bit.
Just my 2 cents.

[irwinwheeler]

what size tires were you running with the dana 30?

[blackZZR]

what size tires were you running with the dana 30?

33x12.5s