New 8.8 install

[IPSteeler]

Well after searching for a while today i found a GREAT ford 8.8 to put in my jeep.
I got it complete with E-Brake cables, brake lines, calipers, roter's and with new pad's and shoe's also!
I picked it up for $350.00 from a local auto dismantaler.
It has 3.73:1 gear's but i only have 33's so i am happy with that.
I just have to do the front end now!
I can make a whole walk through if any one want's me to.
If not that's cool.
Because of finances it should take me about 2 month's to build it and have it rollin.

[Shadly1]

SCORE! You probably won't be able to use the e-brake cables though unless you fab some brackets. It's easier to use the YJ ones and roll the ends or buy some from MORE. You may not like that gear ratio. I got one with 4.10s and it could do with a little more still.

[IPSteeler]

well i have been running my stock 3.55's and i have to floor it on the freeway to keep 75Mph.
I did want the 4.10's but i had a option of 3.55's or 3.73's.
If you just want to get rid of your 4.10's and go bigger i will take them off your hand's!
For the E-Brake i am going to try and cut the stock YJ one's and attach the 8.8 ones with cable lock's.
If it doesnt work i will just loop the YJ one's around the hook in the 8.8 with a cable lock.

[Shadly1]

What are you doing for perches and shock mounts?

[IPSteeler]

I have a credit of something over $100 at 4 wheel part's so i think i am going to get them there.
Also does anyone have any experience with those aussie locker's?
I am debating between that and the lockrite.

[IPSteeler]

I was thinking.
What is a good way to go about the U-Bolt plates?
Cut out the stock ones or go find a place to make them?

[92yj]

yes yes full write up please. and pics if you can. i would love to do the 8.8 and it would be helpful.

[Jason]

Unless you are pretty handy fabricating things (like Nailer) , I would go thru M.O.R.E.http://www.mountainoffroad.com/. They pretty much perfected all the parts you need for this. I bought the perches, the e-brake cable and shock mounts from them. It's spendy but having all the parts there when you need them is real helpful.
I did buy the new U-bolts from 4wheel parts. It was recommended to me at this time to upgrade to 9/16 ubolts. Don't forget the adapter flange to attach your drive shaft to the 8.8.
As for your u-bolt plates, the 8.8 is thicker and your existing holes in the plate will have to be widened. Or as you suggested, get someone to make some new ones.
I too did a lot of homework before I did mine, but I still had a lot to learn while doing it.
I remember lying under the Jeep after I pulled out the D-35 thinking,"What the :censor: did you get yourself into?:bonk:

Good luck.

[Shadly1]

I did that too. Those MORE parts are BEEFY!!! I stuck with SUA so I had to cut an inch off of each end of the perch. Their design will make the rear end squat if you use them as is for SUA.

I picked up a set of their extended upper shock mounts too so I could tuck the lower shock mounts up a little higher to keep them from snagging on rocks.

[IPSteeler]

Well i picked up my perches and ordered my shock mounts today!
I will be cleaning it up and going to start painting it when i wake up!
I found a friend that will make me some new plate's with some 5/8" so i am good there and i am going to go down to a well known axle shop here called Kroger so they can make me some massive U-Bolt's and order that spicer 2-2-1379 part on monday.
If all work's out good i should have this thing in the YJ by next weekend!
I just keep looking at the 8.8 and then the D35 and wonder why jeep put that tinny little thing on there to begin with!
I cant wait!
I will start the wright up tomorrow also with some starting pic's.

[IPSteeler]

Ok well to do the 8.8 conversion on your Yj you will first need to find a Ford 8.8 complete rear end from a 1995-newer ford explorer at a junkyard.
I found one for $350.
I then started by removing the hard brake line.
Then the caliper's,
Drum/rotor's,
Then disassemble the E-Brake (drum style) Make a small diagram on a piece of paper before you pull it apart. It makes it ALOT easier when you put it back together.
from there i started removing the internals.
Start by removing the cover and draining the fluid.
Then you will see a small screw on the side of the carrier, Remove that screw.
After removing the screw push the carrier pin out.
You will then notice that you can push in the axles.
After you push them in you will see a C-Clip on the end of that axle inside of the carrier.
Remove both C-Clip's and pull out both axle's
The reason i pulled out the axles is i dont want the heat them up and weaken them.

I went further by removing the caliper bracket and dust covers to fully inspect the full housing, Bearing's and seals.

After inspecting everything And finding out that everything is A OK you are ready to start cutting everything off.

I used a 5"angle grinder with a cut off wheel. (Well about 5)
If i had a torch I would have cut everything off that way.
But i dont!
I started by cutting off the swaybar mount's.
Make sure you dont cut into the housing.
Then go cut off the spring perches.
After that grind everything smooth.

That's it for the tare down!

Now it is time to start building it up.

Now i sanded everything and washed everything with brake cleaner than gave everything a quick wipe down.
I covered the whole housing and pumpkin with some weld through primer so nothing start's to rust on me.
I used some zinc rust tough primer to help with rust further and kill any that is left.

Let it sit for a bit and then Put everything back in just like you took it out.

That is it for now because that is how far i have got.
If any one has any questions feel free to ask.

[IPSteeler]

BTW here are some pic's of my progress.

Here is a pic after removing everything but the spring perches.


Heres the insides of the beefy 8.8.


On the left is the 8.8 top spider and on the right is the D35 top spider.
Notice any difference?


8:00PM Just finished for the day.
Now the spring perches are ready to be tacked on but i have to wait for the U-Bolts and plate's.

[Shadly1]

Ahh memories... I went the other route with the cut and weld. I kept it filled with fluid. I figured it would keep the heat down at the seals. Don't forget to turn those rotors. Looking good!

[IPSteeler]

That is on my list.
The rotor's are bad but the drums will be good with just a little lovin with some 400 grit sand paper.

[IPSteeler]

Well it is in!
This swap was alot easier tan i thought.
I have a few things to work out. the end result is great.
I have heard that you can feel the strength of the axle when driving and it is true.
It did lower the back end by about 5/8" but that is very minor.
I am making some shackle's for it next weekend so i will just make the back a bit higher.
For any one that want's to do this swap i very highly recommend it.
After some E-Brake adjustment and bending my dust plates so they dont hit the rotors that is it!