Breakage

[locked94yj]

I have been Jeeping for almost 3 years now and have built a decent rig. 4" lift 35" tires lockers front and rear, on board air, roll cage, corbeau seats and harnesses, 4.56 gears, SYE kit and CV shaft. Seems to be decent trail rig. The problem is driving on the pavement and this is why.

I have broken a few things on my Jeep. first to go was the clucth it had 110 thousand miles on it and it was time, next was the water pump, then the transmission, then the radiator, then I droped a u-joint wich made the drive shaft hit the pavement then took out he muffler and some how managed to crack my bell housing, next I broke teeth of the front ring and pinion and finally yesterday I broke teeth of my rear pinion gear. Seems like I have been doing some serious wheeling. Noped, it all happened on the pavement.

I have been to Moab the Rubicon all over southern California and not once have I broke on the trail. I guess this is a good thing considering this stuff would be alot more difficult to replace on the trail but thats where you expect breakage to happen not on the road. If a had a tow veichle I think I would give up driving my jeep on the road, its costing me a fortune.

[blackZZR]

everyday wear an tear is also a big factor of trail breakage
I am not refering to breakage directly due to abuse on trail, a lot of guys avoid that by going easy where others just go for it
what I mean is that a lot of the everyday wear an tear you subject your ride to on the road is what causes it to break on trail. I see guys who go all out checking this and that under the ride but never check belts and hoses.
Also I notice that lots of guys break down on trail and have to borrow parts from the guys who bring them, and the bringers usually are not breaking stuff.
Oh well

[Old Fart]

At 110K, the clutch and water pump were at their effective lifespan - would have been casualties on the street or the trail, better to die on the street. Radiator usually goes about there too. Transmission is unusual - unless you're trying to drive it like a sports car, AX-15 usually is good for 200K or so (assuming you keep it fed with ATF).

Sad to say - but R&P breakages with 35" tires and 4.56's aren't normal unless you're shock loading it. If I recall correctly from your other post, you're running a Detroit in the rear (why they even sell those for Dana 35's is beyond me). A rear Detroit with that size tire is fine on the pavement - but you've got to be very anal about things like tire pressure, learning how to get on/off the gas in turns - or it will start to give you problems with the driveline (R&P, u-joints)

BTW - on ANY YJ, make sure you reweld the front spring perches (or better yet replace them with something like the Slickrock ones). My Dachshund can weld better than the factory did on that item

[locked94yj]

I already had to repair the spring hanger on the front of the jeep. It broke on me when I was on the rubicon. Thankfully the guys i run with have on board welders and was able to do a trail repair that got me through the rubicon. When i got back I rewelded and reinforced the front spring hangers. And you are absoulutly correct about jeep missing welds. I was under the jeep doing the spring hangers and started looking around and found that they ethier missed the joint with the weld or just didn't weld it at all. So after two hours of welding under the jeep i think i got all the welds they missed.

[Old Fart]

Mine were fine on the 94 with my 3-1/2" Superlift - but when I had the 6" Alcans built I went to the Slickrocks. I was amazed at how easy it was to remove the old ones - basically grind off a tack weld and one hit with the 5lb Harley carbureter adjustment tool.

Probably the only "must fix" on the YJ's I've found.