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well, it is in there, and appears to be working just fine.
here are a couple of pics flexing out in the parking lot.
there is no rubbing between the arms, nor on the pitman arm.
i used a pitman arm from an ole full size ford dually truck. i think it was about a 68.
it had a pitman arm which was 5" from hole to hole, and apx. a 2" drop.
it is a really beefy pitman arm, and left plenty of room to taper it for the tre.
i believe a ford ranger pitman arm would work too. the stock ranger arm is straight, but is also 5" from hole to hole. if you can get a "dropped" version of this arm, you would be in good shape.
the 5" arm does still allow me to turn from lock to lock, and loses no steering ability at alll that i can notice.
notice how much higher the tie rod is on this set up. flipping it to the top of the stock knuckles, and re tapering really has a sufficient clearance gain.
i still have to work in the steering damper, but i have had no issues at speed or slow driving.
OK, well.. here is some more information and pictures of this steering mod.
here is a close up shot of the knuckle with the newly tapered part for the tie rod end.
there is plenty of meat there to keep its strength with the new 1 ton tie rod ends.
here is the drill i used to do the tapers, with the fancy taper bit.
these are most of the parts needed to do this upgrade.
i plan to use 1.5" chrome molly x 1/4 wall tube, with a smaller diameter sleved inside. this should never have another problem on the rocks.
for the drag link, i'd like to do the same, but i thing clearances might be a bit of a problem. so i may have to find some 1/4" wall material with 3/4" ID, and tap the inside to receive the rod ends.
the 2 pictures above show the rod end that attatches to the pitman arm. notice the available swing of this part. it really has a great range of motion, and will eliminate binding in that area.
more info and pics to come as i progress with this project.
i will be using the stock dana 30 knuckle, and retapering to accept the 1 ton tie rod ends. it appears that there will be plenty of meat there to hold the tre, and enough space between the tre, and the wheel. of course, this will depend on your bakset. i am running 3.75" backset wheels.
Using the blazer knuckles does this mean you are going to have to cut off the knuckle joint on your dana30 housing to weld in the blazer jiont. My dana44 axle tube is 2 1/2" od and 1/2" wall. I'm not sure how you make the connection.
I can see it all now. I didn't change anything on my end (didnt even so much as re-boot my computer). :confused:
Comcast recently did some work on their end, and it seems to have solved the problem I have had with them for the past 9 or 10 months (dropping IP's when I upload info to the 'net).
yes, sarah... i can specify which sites can link them, and everyone else can not.
there are a very few people that can not see them on the designated sites, and i honestly dont understand why that is.
my uneducated guess would be some sort of firewall, or protective parental controls. :confused:
give it another try, brian. i have completely disabled the hotlink protection. if you still can not see them, it is most certainly something on your end.
please let me know.
also, if you could please pm me the link in your browser when you are viewing this page.
thanks
gosh, erik, you act like people are soooo interested in STEALING your photos!
with the script you're using can you specify "friendly" sites? if not, i have one that you can.
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