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TJ disc brake conversion
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I pulled mine apart last week and didn't see the O ring. Is it inside the valve.
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see the bolt with the black rubber thing on the front of this valve?
remove the bolt. you will see a spring, a shaft, and the o ring type thing in there. remove the ring, and put the rest back. there is really nothing to it. 5 minutes. and you may, or may not need to bleed your breaks. when i took mine out the pedal was still very firm, but i bled em' anyway.
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removing the o ring works well. i did it for mine, and it is as if it were designed for the disci in the rear. your tj should be no problem at all with this. my late model yj, and your tj have the same booster.
the 88 yj has a weaker booster, and it (the pedal) was a bit soft after removing the o ring, but, still stopped fine.
good luck
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Originally posted by cbremer
al, have you tried removing the o-ring from the prop. valve?
http://www.stu-offroad.com/brakeconv/bc-5.htm
otherwise, i've got a prop. valve from a ZJ with your name on it
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al, have you tried removing the o-ring from the prop. valve?
http://www.stu-offroad.com/brakeconv/bc-5.htm
otherwise, i've got a prop. valve from a ZJ with your name on it
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Guest repliedAftermarket adjustables are cool. We use them on the Race Car. When I finally get my D30 for the front, it will have Disc, and then someday a disc brake conversion for the D44 in the rear. Someday!
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Originally posted by goodtimes
How are the brakes working with the original proportioning valve? Have you thought about a aftermarket adjustable valve?
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How are the brakes working with the original proportioning valve? Have you thought about a aftermarket adjustable valve?
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I haven't done the valve yet. I haven't decided if I will wait till after the Rubicon before I do it.
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Grands have had them for years, I can always use the Rubi valvel if needed.
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